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Hi,

 

I'm getting the error "Steering faulty" on my Porsche Cayenne Turbo 2004.

 

I've read a lot on this issue, and it seems to be a general issue on these cars.

 

My cars battery has been "low" lately, even though I just switched it 1 year ago.

 

I read that the steering column needs to be replaced in order to fix this error.

 

Here's my question:

 

1- What steps can I try before replacing the steering column?

 

2- Can the steering column be fixed by soldering repair of the control unit?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi

 

Sorry not good news I  had this issue and cost me £££'s I tried cheaper methods but only option is replace steering column I'm in the UK but have seen an Australian mechanic who have found a way of getting round this problem see video. Maybe someone can contact him and get his know how to us living in The UK etc.

 

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Without being 100% sure because I haven't done it, there is a chance tou don't need a new steering rack. A number o people have just connected a used one for just tricking the module and then connected back their original one. The car started flawlessly and the error cleared!!
Just giving you ideas before taking and bite!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I've been a Porsche guy for 30 plus years.I know the game and rules of engagement. But the "Steering Faulty" code that has left my wife (and her Cayenne Turbo) stranded and apparently immovable may be the straw that breaks my Porsche back!  How it can run seemlingly perfect one moment then leave you dead and with no apparent workaround the next.............  Sorry to say that any responsible or rational that this vehicles lack of trustworthy is out the window right now          So incredibly disapointing and discouraging?

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The locking mechanism that engages the steering wheel lock fails which is controlled via a module operating a small electrical motor which is all part of the steering column. A new unit must be installed and coded by a OPC or someone with the correct scan tool/software. I've tried to install used units with no success.

 

Porsche isn't the only manufacturer with systems like this, it's the norm these days and many other makers have many more problems with their hardware than Porsche.

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What is the purpose of the steering lock feature?

Apart for theft protection, does it serve another role?

What fault / conditions does the steering module monitor that will lockout the steering?

 

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I just went through this with our 08. Dealer wanted 5k to replace the steering column and KESSY module. I did some interneting and found this: 

http://www.speedosolutions.com/Audi-...ice_p_112.html

 

Talked with an indy that had some experience with the issue but had only swapped out a matching KESSY and steering column from a wrecked car. I showed him the service and he said it was worth a shot, so we rolled the dice. Got the car back today $1200 bucks later, so I'd say so far this is a viable alternative. Dealers diagnosis of the bad KESSY turned out to be incorrect, but there are reports of the bad lock frying that module too.  If something happens in the future I'll post an update.

As far as I know the overcomplicated lock is just for theft protection. But if the car senses an error it prevents all driving in case you could be driving down the road and suddenly have the lock engage. 

 

 

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I too had the dreaded "Steering Faulty" red message of death, Alarm code 288.  I was able to clear it myself, for $0.  My situation may be different than yours, so this may or may not work for you.

 

This occurred during experimentation (unsuccessful) upgrading the gauge cluster in an '04 Cayenne S to one from an '03-04 Cayenne turbo.  Unlike many who posted successful plug and play upgrades, I ran into an incompatibility.  Short diagnosis- the old cluster is a type RB8, with the CAN gateway separate from the cluster.  The turbo cluster is an RB4, with the CAN gateway in the cluster.   Lots of issues, lots of study with the durametric software led me to give up.  However, while I was swapping out clusters (thus removing and re-adding the CAN gateway) the key was left in the ignition.  That may be the cause of the problem, and why the reset I describe below worked for me.

 

The fix was to unplug and plug back in the steering wheel lock, and clear the 288 code with the Durametric software.  That's it.  No new parts, no money spent. 

 

This might be worth a try for you.  If you want to give it a shot:

 

0. REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION :)

 

1. Remove the bottom cover from the instrument panel (the one containing the OBDII port and footwell light.  Unplug the OBDII port from the panel and pull the connector for the footwell light.  Set the bottom cover aside.

 

2. Remove the lower trim under the steering wheel.  this contains the headlight switch and panel illumination dimmer.  Disconnect their connectors and set the lower panel aside.

 

3. Remove the 3 accessible screws from the aluminum crash pad / knee protector that lives under the lower trim.  It'll still be connected at the right front, that's OK just swing it out of the way.

 

4. Locate the locking mechanism.  It's a silver box that sits on the steering column under the aluminum crash pad.  It has a connector going to it with 3 wires.  Squeeze the sides of the connector and unplug it, then plug it back in again.

 

5. Reassemble everything.  Some systems seem to get their power serially with the headlight switch; if you leave it unplugged odd things can happen. 

 

6. Using a Durametric or PWIS or similar tool to clear the 288 code from the alarm module.  Note, while the "Steering Faulty" message is displayed, you can't turn on the ignition, and the software can't connect.  To get around this, hold your foot on the brake pedal; this wakes up some of the modules on the CAN bus (including the alarm module) so you can reset the code.

 

7. Cross your fingers and stick the key in again.  If your problem is the same as mine, you'll hear the steering lock solenoid pop and no more "Steering Faulty" message.

 

Good luck, hope this is helpful!

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Well...  Getting the car ready to go on the trailer to have the AC system worked on, and got the blasted message again.  Good news, same workaround (steps listed above) worked again.  PITA if I have to carry a Durametric around with me to reset the code after removing/inserting the connector, but until I can find a permanent solution it'll have to do.   More as I find it out...

 

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This is going to become a more and more common problem as the components used in this circuitry get older.  It is basically the same in the Audi A8, the VW Touareg and the Cayenne.

 

The official Porsche solution is to buy a new steering column, which including removal costs, replacement and recoding will run around $4000.  There are some alternatives.  Tom at Speedometer solutions in Chicago is very capable of fixing the actual problem, but you will need to send him the steering lock module (not too bad to remove but not for the feint of heart) as well as the kessy module and a functional key.  The total cost for this depends on whether the lock was active or not, which decides if you can get the lock off with everything in place, or if you have to remove the steering column to get it removed.   I would say removal costs will be around $250 or so.  Tom charges $399 to repair the module and GUARANTEES his work.

The last alternative is to get all the necessary parts from a junkyard, but you will need the lock from the steering column, the kessy as well as the keys.  You will then use all of the new electronics, and switch the blade from your old key.  I have no idea what you could get such a set for but it will all need to be matching.  Once these things are programmed, there is NO reprogramming.

 

I have just gone through this, and my car is back on the road after spending less than $500.  Sucks but better than $4k...

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Ringnalda-

i just read your post and I have the same problem. Red “steering faulty” light is on right when I open the door. The car won’t even start. Where should I start with this? I’m lost

 

thanks

Neal

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With the holidays I don’t expect the Speedometer Solutions to help me right away, but I’d like to solve the problem for the time being.(I did email them anyway) Which guidelines did you use to remove the lock module and column steering? 

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On 8/22/2017 at 3:23 PM, Petah said:

Well...  Getting the car ready to go on the trailer to have the AC system worked on, and got the blasted message again.  Good news, same workaround (steps listed above) worked again.  PITA if I have to carry a Durametric around with me to reset the code after removing/inserting the connector, but until I can find a permanent solution it'll have to do.   More as I find it out...

 

Just a follow-up report: 

Hope I'm not jinxing myself, but since the last reset I have had no further issues with the steering lock and steering faulty message.  It seems to have gone away as mysteriously as it showed up.   About the only guess I have at the moment is that the fault was related to low battery charge, leaving the works with not enough "oomph" to actually actuate the lock and leaving it stuck half-in/half out.  That's entirely a guess on my part, happy to hear a better theory of anybody has one.  The reason I say that is at the time of the issue the car had been off the road for a while while I did some restoration work on it.  The battery was very low.  I now make sure to drive it to work (90 minute round trip) at least once a week.  Never good to leave a car sit too long.

 

 

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On 12/23/2017 at 10:34 PM, nvichie said:

Ringnalda-

i just read your post and I have the same problem. Red “steering faulty” light is on right when I open the door. The car won’t even start. Where should I start with this? I’m lost

 

thanks

Neal

Hi Neal,

 

Check out my post above - this may get you going again.  Essentially you're disconnecting / reconnecting power to the ignition lock mechanism.  For me,  that reset it and I'm good to go again.  After doing that twice, the problem seems to have gone away (hopefully for good).  No pulling the steering column or sending parts off.  As with everything electrical with these cars, make sure your battery is fully charged...  Good luck

 

Peter

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On 12/23/2017 at 1:13 PM, ringnalda said:

This is going to become a more and more common problem as the components used in this circuitry get older.  It is basically the same in the Audi A8, the VW Touareg and the Cayenne.

 

The official Porsche solution is to buy a new steering column, which including removal costs, replacement and recoding will run around $4000.  There are some alternatives.  Tom at Speedometer solutions in Chicago is very capable of fixing the actual problem, but you will need to send him the steering lock module (not too bad to remove but not for the feint of heart) as well as the kessy module and a functional key.  The total cost for this depends on whether the lock was active or not, which decides if you can get the lock off with everything in place, or if you have to remove the steering column to get it removed.   I would say removal costs will be around $250 or so.  Tom charges $399 to repair the module and GUARANTEES his work.

The last alternative is to get all the necessary parts from a junkyard, but you will need the lock from the steering column, the kessy as well as the keys.  You will then use all of the new electronics, and switch the blade from your old key.  I have no idea what you could get such a set for but it will all need to be matching.  Once these things are programmed, there is NO reprogramming.

 

I have just gone through this, and my car is back on the road after spending less than $500.  Sucks but better than $4k...

You're right about this affecting pretty much every VAG product from this era.  When researching this I read about Audi's, VW's, Porsches, Bentleys for God's sake, pretty much everything that VAG makes. 

 

Wonder if people who bought a Veyron have this problem?

 

<RANT> This is an unnecessarily complicated electro-magnetic computer-controlled disaster waiting to happen solution to what is really a very simple problem: how to lock the steering wheel when the key is removed.  Google it.  We have a software module that has to interact with the steering lock mechanism and key (yes your car talks to the key using RF, it's not just a mechanical interface).  We have a solenoid that pops a pin up between some hall sensors that are there to watch the pin go by and report back to the software in the KESSY module that the lock action appeared to work or it didn't.   All is find and dandy until grit, dust, Gremlins wearing "I hate Bosch" tee-shirts or any other factor impedes the pin moving or the hall sensors from seeing it move.   What is a reasonable course of action?  I'm no automotive engineer, but if I were writing the software for the KESSY module I'd come up with something better than "Steering Faulty" and rendering the car undrivable until the poor owners is coerced into spending the better part of $5 grand throwing the baby out with the bathwater.   How about "Sorry, steering did not lock, please retry" and give us 3 tries before locking us out for 30 minutes so we can try again?  Or "Warning - Steering lock failure, steering is not locked" so we can make our own decision about whether to lock the car in the garage until we can get it fixed or roll the dice and leave every other security feature working except the steering lock?  How about a manual override to the lock?  Every other manufacturer on the planet solves this problem without a Rube Goldberg type locking masterpiece that is in effect a ticking time bomb that is just waiting to go expensively wrong.  IMHO VAG should admit "Yup, we screwed the pooch on that one" and offer some kind of assistance to owners who get to live with the consequences of this terrible engineering design.  Something better than "pay up or walk" which seems to be the line at the moment.  OK I'm done. </RANT>

 

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Just a follow up: I'd like to thank Ringnalda and Petah for pointing me in the direction of Speedometer Solutions and avoiding the dealership. Tom runs this place and I'll give him 5/5 Stars. If anyone has code 2288 "steering faulty" in red, then I highly recommend reaching out to Tom at Speedometer Solutions. He will save you the headache of going to the dealership and them milking your wallet. I was very fortunate that Tom was local to me here in the suburbs of Chicago, IL and it was brutally cold here. Subzero temperatures and he came out to my garage to help dismantle the Kessy module and the steering column lock module. It was a team effort as we both tackled the job. You will need good tools to maneuver in tight spaces. Torx 20 and 15 are common.  Keep in mind that just clearing the code will not solve the problem. Once the system goes through a full cycle, the steering faulty code will reappear and who knows where your car will be parked? Tom guarantees his work for the lifetime of the product, so that makes it reassuring.  I'd say it took a good 2 hours of removing everything for us. However it was my first time so if you're handy, you'll probably be a lot faster. If anyone has this problem, save yourself the money and avoid the dealership. Happy New Year everyone. My 2004 Cayenne Turbo has 95,000 miles and still going strong. (crossing fingers)

 

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On 1/8/2018 at 7:18 PM, nvichie said:

Just a follow up: I'd like to thank Ringnalda and Petah for pointing me in the direction of Speedometer Solutions and avoiding the dealership. Tom runs this place and I'll give him 5/5 Stars. If anyone has code 2288 "steering faulty" in red, then I highly recommend reaching out to Tom at Speedometer Solutions. He will save you the headache of going to the dealership and them milking your wallet. I was very fortunate that Tom was local to me here in the suburbs of Chicago, IL and it was brutally cold here. Subzero temperatures and he came out to my garage to help dismantle the Kessy module and the steering column lock module. It was a team effort as we both tackled the job. You will need good tools to maneuver in tight spaces. Torx 20 and 15 are common.  Keep in mind that just clearing the code will not solve the problem. Once the system goes through a full cycle, the steering faulty code will reappear and who knows where your car will be parked? Tom guarantees his work for the lifetime of the product, so that makes it reassuring.  I'd say it took a good 2 hours of removing everything for us. However it was my first time so if you're handy, you'll probably be a lot faster. If anyone has this problem, save yourself the money and avoid the dealership. Happy New Year everyone. My 2004 Cayenne Turbo has 95,000 miles and still going strong. (crossing fingers)

 

You're welcome sorry I did not see your reply.  Did you remove just the lock or did you have to remove the column assembly?  Glad you had Tom as a local to help you!

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I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately.  Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.

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To Ringnalda,

We didn't need to remove the steering column.  Just had to maneuver a little with the right tools and we were able to remove the lock.

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Yes I do still have this.  Please email me as I do not check the web responses that often...

 

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