Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
andrewjt19

2002 Porsche 911 (996) Oil Cooler Leak

Recommended Posts

Basic Info

2002 Porsche 911 Carrera

Coupe C2

Manual 6 speed

US

 

So my friend and I started to the process of changing the IMS to the Solution and noticed while we were removing the second from the top left bolt of the transmission (facing the rear of the car) that there was a lot of corrosion. The bolt was very difficult to get out and actually took some of the threads with it. Once we removed the tranny we saw inside the housing of the tranny and the crank crystallized particles. It was also around the bolt that was tough to get out. After a closer look it appeared that the oil cooler had leaked antifreeze at some point which over time, seeped around the tranny/crank housing (did not enter the tranny though). It (the flakes) also was near where the cooler mount to the crank. This led us to belive that possibly the oil cooler is bad or going bad or possibly the oil cooler o-rings. Any ideas or comments? This is where I plan on getting the replacement parts. I can post some pics even if it would help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

I posted this question in Rennlist as well and one user said it is normal for water to trap in the area near the oil cooler? Has anyone else heard of this theory? If this is a common thing then I'm more inclined to believe the cooler is not leaking but if not then I'd rather just change it... Feedback???

tApPeD fROM mY nExUs 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have not really seen water collection as an issue, plus from your description, it sounds more like dried coolant.

 

I would suggest running a cooling system pressure test to see if the system is tight or not.  I would also clean off the area first to see if more coolant shows up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By Bardia Manafi
      Hi all, just purchased a 1961 notchback 1600s, I have never drove a Porsche until the day I purchased this car, got the bug now and i love Porsches more than ever now, the car is in very good shape, but i want to change all the fluids, grease all the parts, and do all the maintenance there is, the oil was so dark when I checked the level and it was all the way to max line of the stick, i would appreciate if you guys can tell me where to buy all the maintenance parts, and where can I buy the shop manual, and what are the things I should do, there is a small leak on the floor from engine very small, but a palm size of oil from transmission on the ground,  thanks guys cheers😁

    • By Michael hurta
      Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere.  In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine....  Here's the details.  My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light.  It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion.  My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated).  The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc.  The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive.  I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors.  I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit.  Do I have a bad salvaged cluster?  Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?  
    • By Kevin Bryck
      2002 996
       
      Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
       
      Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
      While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
      Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
       
      We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
       
      Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
      Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
      Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
       
      Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
       
       



    • By salamander
      I have a 2007 C2S manual with about 132K on the odometer.  A low oil pressure light has started to show up at idle after the car is warmed up.  It seems as if the light is gradually coming on more frequently.  The pressure gage on the dash reads around 0.5 bar when the light comes on.  When the car is cold the starting pressure is around five bar and is about 3 bar at 3000rpm.  As it warms up the pressure drops to about 2 bar at 3000rpm.  I always run 0-40W Mobil 1 and change the oil every 5K miles.  With the engine off and turning the key one click the pressure gage rises to about 0.1-0.2 bar.
       
      Can anyone help me diagnose this issue?  Would be a sensor or something mechanical?
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.