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2008 Cayman S with 75k. No CEL car drives perfect. Sometimes at highway speed I smell rotten eggs or sulfur smell inside car. This rattle noise only comes from driverside and is only on at idle and goes away when driven at speed and then comes back at idle at stop light. It seems to be coming from the exhaust manifold/ cat. Can anyone confirm by listening or had similar sounds . This rattle sound went away a couple months now is back and pretty persistent during initial start up and remains again only at idle.

IMG_6059.MOV

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From the combination of the odor you describe and the sound, you have a cat on the way out.

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7 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

From the combination of the odor you describe and the sound, you have a cat on the way out.

Thanks JFP , 

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12 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

From the combination of the odor you describe and the sound, you have a cat on the way out.

Hey JFP when I remove the cat does the battery need to be disconnected for 02 sensor? And the manifold bolts do you have to torque specs? Thanks again!

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You do not have to disconnect the battery when working on the O2 sensors.

 

Which bolts do you need the torque specs for?

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2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

You do not have to disconnect the battery when working on the O2 sensors.

 

Which bolts do you need the torque specs for?

The 6 manifold hexagon bolts. Thanks as always!

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9 hours ago, moosey said:

The 6 manifold hexagon bolts. Thanks as always!

Tightening torque: 25 Nm (19 ft lb)

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On 3/7/2017 at 3:48 AM, JFP in PA said:

Tightening torque: 25 Nm (19 ft lb)

JFP it ended up being a combination of my cat going bad and upper pulley completely destroyed and bouncing all over the place. Sound gone onnce parts were installed. However after putting the belt on noticed the tensioner pulley , lower pulley and crankshaft pulley all started to wobble slightly and faintly began to lightly whisper the Sam noise telling me they all need to also be replace . Can't I have the torque specs for the Crankshaft bolt. Thanks!

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8 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Crank pulley is 37 ft.lbs. + 90 degrees.

JFP is that +90 mean another like 4-6 turns on the wrench? Thanks

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2 hours ago, moosey said:

JFP is that +90 mean another like 4-6 turns on the wrench? Thanks

 

No, just turn the wrench another 90 degrees after you reach the proper torque.

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54 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

No, just turne the wrench another 90 degrees after you reach the proper torque.

 

Exactly.

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Thanks did the upper roller get updated part number from 996.102.119.58 to 

997.102.118.00.

i was given a plastic one that didn't look metal seen in pic below. I need to also replace the lower and tensioner which look to all. E the same pulley and same part. The plastic one does not look strong so just wanted to make sure it is okay on 08 cayman S Tip. 

 

original roller on left metal and new dealer given plastic on right

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3 hours ago, Loren said:

96.102.119.58 is for Tiptronic cars and  997.102.118.00 is for 6-speed cars.

Thanks Loren ! I was given wrong one from dealer. I'm going to replace the Lower pulley and crankshaft pulley too if you have time to get those that would be much appreciated. I'm going to donate soon. 

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1 hour ago, Loren said:

996-102-115-63 Crankshaft pulley

997-102-119-00 lower Deflection pulley (6-speed)

997-102-119-58 lower Deflection pulley (Tiptronic)

Thanks Loren! So I understand the upper and lower deflection pulley have same part number as they look identical with exception to bolt size ? Can I get the part number for the Tensioner Pulley. Also do you know what tool i need to purchase that holds the crankshaft pulley in place when removing it. The one I read when you have to insert into one of the holes into engine case? I'll try and see if there are any tsbs on it .

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9 hours ago, moosey said:

Thanks Loren! So I understand the upper and lower deflection pulley have same part number as they look identical with exception to bolt size ? Can I get the part number for the Tensioner Pulley. Also do you know what tool i need to purchase that holds the crankshaft pulley in place when removing it. The one I read when you have to insert into one of the holes into engine case? I'll try and see if there are any tsbs on it .

 

The crank pulley is held with a pin inserted into the engine case.  Its diameter is about 5/16 of in inch, so you can use any suitable rod or smooth bolt to do the job.

 

DSC07627.JPG

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JFP, I tries searching for TSBS on the removal of the crank an cannot find any. Is there anyway you send me link for one if you know of any. My questions are once I get the tool , I insert it into the hole in location according to the pic above. I just looked and it does not seem to align at it current position for me to insert anything in. Is there a way to move the crank pulley or do I need to start car with belt on to see if I can get it aligned for the bolt? Once I do get that bolt in I use breaker bar to remove 24mm crank bolt , then wiggle out old crank pulley, put new one on and at that point do I need to re-insert the PIN to bolt back the pulley on ?? Thanks

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OK, you need to rotate the engine by hand using a wrench, only turning the pulley clockwise, never counter clockwise, until the pulley hole lines up with the pin boss.

 

Once the pulley bolt is out, you can pull the pin and simply wiggle the pulley to pull it out.  Then reinstall the bolt, turn the engine if it has moved to orient the pin opening, and reinstert the pin, then complete the torque plus rotation process.  Then it is Miller time..........

 

And just a by-the-by in passing, you will not find much of Porsche's original literature posted online, they have gotten draconian about protecting their copyrights and go after any one that does post their stuff.

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On 3/14/2017 at 9:53 AM, JFP in PA said:

OK, you need to rotate the engine by hand using a wrench, only turning the pulley clockwise, never counter clockwise, until the pulley hole lines up with the pin boss.

 

Once the pulley bolt is out, you can pull the pin and simply wiggle the pulley to pull it out.  Then reinstall the bolt, turn the engine if it has moved to orient the pin opening, and reinstert the pin, then complete the torque plus rotation process.  Then it is Miller time..........

 

And just a by-the-by in passing, you will not find much of Porsche's original literature posted online, they have gotten draconian about protecting their copyrights and go after any one that does post their stuff.

JFP, donhabe the torque specs for the following bolts:

Upper Pulley

Tensioner Pulley

Lower Pulley

 

i can't find the smooth bolt or rod to insert in engine case when removing crank pulley. I'm trying to find the locking pin the pic you posted. I'm not sure there is room to insert that pin with the round ball at the end but do you think if I end up finding one I could just cut off the round ball off at the end and that should do it. Or maybe depending on length of that locking pin maybe it will work as is?

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4 hours ago, moosey said:

JFP, donhabe the torque specs for the following bolts:

Upper Pulley

Tensioner Pulley

Lower Pulley

 

i can't find the smooth bolt or rod to insert in engine case when removing crank pulley. I'm trying to find the locking pin the pic you posted. I'm not sure there is room to insert that pin with the round ball at the end but do you think if I end up finding one I could just cut off the round ball off at the end and that should do it. Or maybe depending on length of that locking pin maybe it will work as is?

 

Although they look almost identical, the top and bottom idler pulleys have two different part numbers so be careful not to mix them up if you are replacing them both at the same time. Reinstallation is a snap, simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm). The bolts that are used on the pulleys originally had self-locking compound on them when they were new, so if you are reusing them again, then simply add a little bit of blue Loctite 242 to the threads prior to installing them.

 

The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).

 

The little ball of the pulley locking pin unscrews.

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16 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Although they look almost identical, the top and bottom idler pulleys have two different part numbers so be careful not to mix them up if you are replacing them both at the same time. Reinstallation is a snap, simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm). The bolts that are used on the pulleys originally had self-locking compound on them when they were new, so if you are reusing them again, then simply add a little bit of blue Loctite 242 to the threads prior to installing them.

 

The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).

 

The little ball of the pulley locking pin unscrews.

Thanks JFP, now my last problem is finding the right breaker bar 24mm socket combo that will fit in the tight space to loosen crank pulley. Your correct the bolt need is exactly 5/16 or .3125 of an inch. I went to hardware store and made one and it fits perfectly! I hope I don't have to end of buying Porsche's tool to remove bolt.

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