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Hi everyone. My 2006 Boxster S suddenly started making a squealing noise. Noise goes away at higher RPM, only to come back at lower RPM and at idle. Not related to gear or clutching at all. Noise seems loudest at the rear of the car; I can hardly hear it inside with the windows closed. Is this a serpentine belt issue? Or the bearing of some engine accessory? I have 50,000 miles, and have already changed the serpentine belt once, around 4-5 years ago, just due to age of the car. I have not yet had the time to open up the engine compartment to look further. If it's a belt, then I would expect more noise from inside the cabin, would I not? I have attached a recording indicating the squeal going away when I rev the engine.
Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
By Graeme Tate
I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me.
When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home.
Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant.
This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running.
Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again
Sent from my iPhone
MY2000 C2 Tiptronic Cabriolet, stock intake, around 70k miles.
I changed out the coolant tank about two weeks ago. During the tank install, I broke the oil filler tube. I wrapped it tightly with Gorilla tape as a few people had mentioned that as a temporary fix. I've driven the car about 250 miles since then with no issues. I detect a bit of gasoline smell in the exhaust but I'm not sure if it's my imagination since I had to disconnect the fuel lines during the tank R&R and I'm a bit paranoid after I work on my car. There are no black deposits on or near the tailpipes. Yesterday I was driving and was very low on fuel. I noticed a slight shudder every 15 or 20 seconds while I was idling at a traffic light. I filled it up as I thought maybe that was causing the shudder.
When I got home, I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner. I started the car briefly and it seemed fine.
Today I pulled the car out and it was running rough immediately . Within about a minute I got a CEL P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire. It didn't rain yesterday but the humidity was close to 90%
I had changed out the spark plugs about 20,000 miles ago but didn't replace the coils at that time, which I assume were original. I just ordered new plugs and coils and will install them when they arrive.
Would a bad MAF or leaking oil filler tube trigger a misfire on just one cylinder?
I was planning on delaying the oil filler tube replacement to next year when I'll have my Indy replace the 7 year old LNE IMS and the AOS.
Is there anything I can check in the meantime?