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Convertible Top Parking Brake Switch Replacement

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Guys, there's so much about this. But I can't seem to find a detailed pictorial. Here's my question: With the small access panel removed from the center console, I can see that little $6 switch in there. It's right under the hand brake. How do I remove it? It's  force fit with a plastic barb. Do I just break it out? Slide an "L" shaped screw driver behind it? Will the barb on the switch break off easily without harming the aluminum bracket? Will the new one be a royal pain to re-insert?


Thanks all.

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Have you tried squirting electrical Contact Cleaner on the switch? Then operate the E-Brake vigorously many times to spread the cleaner fluid..  It may just be sticky ? The Parking Brake Warning Light will 'tell' you if you have fixed it.

If not ,try removing the Top relay ,clean the pins ,tap it (loose contacts inside?) and replace:


Test the 2 fuses with a DMM - not just visually.

D3 = motor


While you are probably waiting for the upgraded Parking Brake microswitch (ends in 02, not 01 & is black not white!) to arrive from Sunset Porsche :


Be aware that details of the top transmission system changed between the early/late Boxster.The later Boxsters are a bit easier.

1.Check the bolts on the push rods for tightness .The 2-piece arms have serrated mating surfaces. If they slip because the bolt is loose, you will destroy the serrations and have great difficulty keeping the two pieces in the correct adjustment.

2. Measure the height/angle of the boomerang on the gearbox from any convenient reference point and compare to the opposite side.They should be exactly (+/- 1/8th") the same. They can be adjusted using a very low torque+slow speed setting on a cordless drill(See Pelican DIY) You can make your own driver to adjust the 'timing' of the gearbox. It is 4mm square.

Note the "timing marks on the gearbox case. Measure the distance from the ball for the cam cover to a reference point with the top fully closed and fully open. If you fail to do this accurately with many different measurements/refences, you will destroy the top/mechanism/both when you operate it after Item 3. below. The motor is powerful enough to tear fabric,bust bolts and rails with ease. See Pelican diy for gory & expensive details.



Mike Focke has a useful PDF if you consider installing a new glass top on an older Boxster:




It also contains 1 critical dimension buried in an electrical section- 7-3/4" from the clamshell ball to the top of the seal- see "Part 111"of his pdf on ,Page 39.

3. Consider dismantling and greasing the 2 gearboxes.You will likely  find a woeful lack of grease inside. BUT only dismantle one side at a time . Photograph ,mark and reference every little part. There are invisible shim washers, concealed alignment points and all manner of potential pitfalls. If you fail to do this, you may get very little help from the Internet or the FSM.You'll need to do this if the large ,white plastic gear has broken.Here is a silly & incomplete video showing how.


The second of the 2 pelican diy's linked above is much more useful

If you need a troubleshooting guide- find Posts by Maurice (1schoir)- he seems to be the unchallenged champion of the electrical part of this system.

Yes, the mechanism can be converted to entirely manual or a manual top and power clamshell.If you go all manual out of frustration with the complxity of the mechanism ,Search for the "Push Latch" modification to hold the clamshell down.One of the experts is Woody - Itsnotanova.

Yes, there is a hack to bypass the 'Parking Brake must be on 1 click' obstacle and the you must not be driving more than walking pace limit. It involves bending pin 15 and/or 18 on the double relay that controls the top.

There is also a  Youtube tutorial for using 2 jumpers in an Emergency to get the top up .It has a useful explanation of some of the many pins on the relay.


When you are testing the top mechanism and are trying to stop the top immediately a problem occurs - stand outside the car and operate the top buttons from the passenger side using a 2ft long hollow rod(or similar). This will allow you to watch the mechanism carefully for twisting/straining. Do not operate from the driver's seat if you expect problems- my the time you react to the bang, it will be too late.

When you are reattaching the red or white plastic cups to the ball that controls the top, it is much easier to do with the top in the down position and the clamshell up. You can look down at the ball from above. I used a wide,flat pry bar to pop the cups on. Be careful where you brace the prybar.Do not inadvertently crush the grooves in the long channel for the clamshell arm/slider.



Edited by Schnell Gelb
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