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To all 996 owners with PSE, especially those with a 4S.
I think my 996 C4S exhaust behaves oddly. I think it's a fault but you might tell me it's normal behaviour. The problem is that I've always had this 'fault' on my car so I don't know if it's a fault or intentional behaviour. If you have the same car, perhaps you can shed some light on this.
When I start it, it's noisy and sounds great. It quiets down as it runs for the first 5 mins.
I have the PSE system and when I press the button you can audibly hear the exhaust note change - quieter when on and louder when off. Default is off so loud.
Here's the rub. Up to around 1500rpm it's got a good noise then it fades out to the point where it's so quiet it's like driving my partners Yaris. If I keep accelerating, when I get to around 3500rpm the exhaust suddenly gets loud again. I mean it's immediate - like someones flipping a switched marked loud. It sounds great.
It happens in 2nd and 3rd gears most noticeably and the PSE is in the 'off' position. If I have the PSE button on, then it's just quiet all the time and that works fine.
So why the silent spot?
I did read somewhere that German market cars might have had a system that turns on and off the PSE at certain speeds to prevent people driving round residential streets with a loud exhaust but information is thin and I don't think I was ever on UK cars.
I have also had a small go at checking vacuum pressure at idle on both sides of the Y piece in the engine bay but both hold good pressure. One side has only a microscopic leak but not enough to cause this kind of issue.
Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.
Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.
However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄
Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
By Christiaan Poortman
Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM.
The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either.
Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
Hi Porsche Gurus
I’m trying to troubleshoot a little issue I have that just my drivers door courtesy lights (and drivers sunvisor light but not sure if that’s different issue) don’t work, both the red and white ones and only the one door(rhd car)
now ive checked the common things like all the fuses and the wiring to see if they were damaged or corroded but they seem fine,
The one thing I would like to check but can not find any info on is where or what is the switch or sensor that tells the lights that the door is open to turn the lights on?
If I can find that then that will at least eliminate all manual fixes that I can think of unless any of you have come across this before, if it’s something simple and I look like a fool for not thinking of it then I’m happy to be a fool as long as the lights work:)
any help would be much appreciated