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Recently I replace the Variocam Ramps on my 2002 boxster S.
Reassembly went well but I have a timing problem for the cams afterwards, trying to figure out the fix.
Bank one at Idle actual cam angle is about 6, deviation is blank.
Once the car warms up to 180, the actual angle goes to close to zero, and the deviation is about 5 to 6.
Bank 2 is as you would expect, actual angle around zero at cold idle, deviation around zero at warm idle.
My recollection is that before disassembly the Durametric showed that actual angle at idle when cold was close to zero On bank one.
I read that actual angle may not represent what I think it does, I read somewhere that it represents the amount of Variocam influence on the cams, not the actual timing.
Can someone possibly explain what the actual angle means? Bonus points if someone can explain to me what exactly is wrong with my car, my best guess is either I have a bad variocam actuator problem or I assembled things with intake cam one tooth off.
By Graeme Tate
I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me.
When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home.
Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant.
This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running.
Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again
Sent from my iPhone
Rough idle + Code P0301after tensioner pad / camshaft work and what is correct " Actual angle for camshaft " spec?By Los996
This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine. Seen here:
That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue.
Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs.
On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually). Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413 (2000 Porsche 911).
Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it did misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel.
Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes:
- P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter
- P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter
Also, took these readings:
Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53
Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05
On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now:
Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00
Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00
So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues?
And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"?