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Good afternoon all,
This is my first post but want to start by thanking all who have shared there knowledge on other posts as it has allowed me to fix various items on my car.
looking for assistance before i take the car to the dealer. i think it is down to the mobilizer but not sure if there is something easy i am over looking.
currently have a no start / no crank condition. when i pulled the car out of winter storage it would crank slow but not start.
1) Replaced the battery, still no start. Then turned into no crank.
2) Replaced ignition switch, started and ran for 10 -15 minutes; but would not restart.
3) Have 12V to pin 30 of the starter relay when key turned to start. And if i short pin 85 (from DME) to ground it cranks but wont start.
4) Replaced Starter relay with a new one. Will "click" when key turned but not hold.
5) swapped the DME relay with another one. (read a post somewhere that this fixed a similar issue for someone)
6) bypassed clutch switch
7) very occasionally (1 out of 40 to 50 tries) car will fire up. this may coincide with having the battery disconnected for 30+ min first but is not guaranteed.
? removed the control unit under the seat and when open appears to be in good condition, no moisture / corrosion. 15 amp fuse confirmed good.
9) checked all fuses in driver foot well, no issues found.
have tried both keys with the same results.
At this point i think either the immobilizer or ECU are the problem but do not have an appropriate scan tool for either of these.
can any of you recommend something i should try before going to the dealer?
The battery went flat on my 2008 Cayenne Turbo, replaced the battery and now when i turn the key i have no dash/ignition/engine lights.
The heater fan works, the turn signals work, steering tilt works, adjustable suspension works.
Wipers don't work, heated seats don't work and engine will not turn over.
I've checked all the usual but maybe missed something, any help would be great.
Thanks in advance.
1999 Porsche 911 (996) Cab - Automatic Trans., Aftermarket Alpine Radio
I'm trying to track down a bad alarm switch (I think). Following are the symptoms:
1. Alarm double beep when activating
2. Door Locks and Windows don't work (15 AMP Fuse C3 blown)
3. Battery is fully Charged
4. I disconnected the ignition switch, reconnected the battery and fuse still blows
5. I disconnected the door lock switch and fuse still blows
6. I disconnected the overhead light array and the fuse still blows
7. Car (basically) does not start (fuel pump works). Car will start intermittently, but maybe 10% of the time trying
8. I replaced the ignition relay (old one was working but showing some resistance on the ohm meter)
9. Problem surfaced when I stopped for gas, filled the tank and the car wouldn't start. I realize there's a lock on the gas cover...have not done troubleshooting on it as I think I have to remove the wheel well to get to it.
10. If I had a wiring diagram, it would make things a whole lot easier!!!
11. I connected a scanner...no faults...I got a green light...however, the scanner does not check the alarm codes
Any help would be appreciated.
What could be causing the attached faults simultaneously? I parked the car last night - this morning it would not start.
I checked and cleaned (contact spray) the DME connectors to no avail. In the past, I had a few occasions when the throttle would "stick" causing the car to idle at around 2500 rpm. Moving the DME connectors around would solve it (I assumed a bad contact on one of the signal cables).
I have also checked all the fuses and the plug to the throttle body.
The live values on Durametric do not change, no matter how I press the gas pedal. Normally, they will vary - e.g., "Pedal Value" going from around 0%, to 100%. Now, Pedal Value is stuck at 30%.
Of note, but I don't believe it is relevant: The engine is an M97.21, the car has been running fine with it since 2010 (I reprogrammed the original DME myself).
Any suggestions on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated. I am at a loss since the faults suggest a problem on both ends (pedal and throttle plate). I tried my best to ensure good contact for the wires plugging into the DME - I even removed each of the two "sections" that slide into the safety clip and checked that each wire is pushed all the way forward and locked.
I am assuming it is extremely unlikely that the DME itself can go bad only in the circuitry involving the e-gas?
EDIT (per the suggestion of JFP below):
The car is a 2003 986 s. No modifications to the wiring harness, with the exception of an extension to control the M97.21 engine's two-stage valve lift.