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I'm new to the Porsche family.... Just over a month and the proud owner of a 1999 Boxster. It's a project car but still on the road and my point to point ride. Must say, LOVE to drive this car....This one has been lowered some, well alot... and does it hug the road..... Just doesn't miss much being that low.... My question is, I am having an issue with the rear lights on this car... I know I had a problem with the left rear brake light. I tried tracing back the wire but found no problem... I then switched the lamp holder from the right side to the left and all the lights worked... So I thought I had an equipment issue. I bought a (Porsche) replacement bulb holder. Came in last night. Changed out today...Guess what???? Turn indicators work, Backup lights work, Brake light works on the Right Side ONLY, (still) Now no rear tail lights what so ever......I have checked ALL the fuses, only had to replace one and it had nothing to do with the lights. NOTHING has changed....Where did my tail lights go?????? Can't figure this out.......Please help.......Just FYI, ALL the LIGHTS were working as of last Wed. when I did the bulb holder swap and checking the lights. Power is to both wire harnesses. Everything else works except the left brake light and the drive lights. Go figure.......
The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel.
Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engine) and also rust your radiators once the debris gets wet.
By adding mesh to the standard grill, using gutter guards for rain gutters, you can reduce the amount of debris which can enter your grill. This is a simple process and adds not only functional value, but I think it looks pretty great too. For me it took roughly 4 hours to access, clean the radiators and air intakes, and add the mesh to my front grills(not including painting the grills).
Parts you'll need:
• Gutter Guard (this is the same stuff you use for rain gutters on a house to keep leaves and junk from building up in the gutter) - Buy two sheets of this.
• High gloss, black spray paint
• Tiny black zip ties - nothing too thick, but don't go too wimpy either. You'll need about 4 zip ties.
Tools you'll need:
• Torx set
• Aluminum shears
• Wet rag and soap to wipe down the air intake duct which is likely dirty.
I won't cover how to remove the front bumper, as that's available widely across Youtube, Renntech, and other DIY sites. Here's the Youtube video I used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=280&v=X2q54XtupVo).
So we'll get started with this tutorial once you have the front bumper cover removed.
1. The first step is to remove the grills which are held in place with 4 plastic tabs and pull out from the inside of the front bumper cover. This is fairly straight forward – just be sure to follow the general rule of not trying to force anything! Use the images below to help.
From this image, you can see 4 plastic tabs are used to secure the grill in place, while 3 tabs on top are flat and just used to align the grill.
2. With the grills out, it’s time to trace them on paper so you can cut your mesh correctly. I used a big sheet of painters drop paper, which I’ll later use when painting the grills, to trace around the whole perimeter of the grill piece. It’s important to trace around the whole piece rather than just the vent portion, because the grill is rounded and so the mesh will need to bend in order to make this a tight fit. If your mesh is too small debris will be able to make it past your grill.
3. Now it’s time to cut your gutter guard. Using the metal shears, cut the mesh to match the outline you traced in step 2. I found it easy to use a box knife to score and transfer the tracing from the paper to the gutter guard (since the gutter is painted, you just use the box knife to score the paint).
Your cuts don’t need to be perfect. Mine aren’t rounded, but you’ll see that they still create a great seal for stopping junk.
4. This next step is optional, though it makes a big difference in terms of looks! I painted by grills. There’s nothing fancy you need to do when painting them. I applied three coats of paint just to ensure it was solid. Let them dry for at least a day or two or else the paint will easily chip.
5. The next step is to cut a whole out for the outside temp sensor which is sticks through the left grill (when looking at the car head on). Before cutting the hole for the sensor, be sure to test out your mesh by holding it against and fitting it (bending it to form) with the respective grill it’s for.
This doesn’t need to be an exact science, and in this case it’s always better to cut less and test it rather than cut too much.
I determined where the hole needed to be cut by holding the fitted mesh against the grill and scoring the part of the mesh which aligned with the hole on the grill. I cut a small rectangle that is about a half inch, or in my case three snips of the mesh. I probably couldn’t gone a bit smaller, but you can’t really notice.
6. Next step is to adhere the mesh to the grill. I did this a bit differently than others have since I didn’t’ want the mesh to be permanently attached to the grill. I used small black zip ties which aren’t visible when viewing the car but hold the mesh securely in place and allow it to be replaced if they become damaged or a future owner doesn’t want them. In the picture below you can see I used 4 zip ties for each grill. Two on the very bottom which help support the mesh from sliding down, and two at the very top which help the mesh from being pushed back into the intake duct.
7. The most difficult part of reassembly is aligning the outside temp sensor with the hole you made. Prior to having mesh installed this was simple because you could just put your fingers in the grill and guide it. There’s no trick to this, just take your time aligning it as you put the bumper panel back on. It doesn’t need to be aligned perfectly since you can use needle nose pliers to adjust it after the bumper panel is in place.
View this tutorial Radiator Grill Mesh and Painting
The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engin Author mrplow911 Category Boxster (986) - Mods Submitted 03/23/2019 06:59 AM Updated 03/23/2019 07:46 AM
By Christiaan Poortman
Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM.
The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either.
Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
I'm new to this website. Here is a question:
I have a 1998 Boxster 2.5 Tiptronic. I just had a new key programmed at dealership ( the old key fob newer worked). With new key fob, all doors (including gas) lock and unlock appropriately. However, when pressing the button to open the rear trunk lid, the lid doesn't move and the rear lock actuator/solenoid is silent. I disconnected the actuator from the car (separating the plastic connector) and using a 9v battery, made the actuator ( and lock) open and close. So I believe the problem is not the actuator. I also connected a volt meter to the two wires that connect from the car to the actuator, then pressed the fob button, and no voltage was recorded. However, the red light on the fob and the red light on the dash near the windshield did light up
So i believe the problem lies in the electrical system somewhere between the actuator and the fob. Any ideas on how to test the wiring running from the trunk lock actuator to the CLU? immobilizer? or wherever it goes? Or should I be spending my time evaluating the CLU? immobilizer? ??
Thanks for any advise!