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I have a 2003 Boxster base model (2.7) with auto. Current showing code P0600 and DTE 61. Had a few different Porsche mechanics look at the issue and have not found a solution. Cleaned the electrical connection at the transmission and verified the ground connections at the tiptronic control module. Had the DME, tiptronic module and immobilizer checked and they were found to be working.
Does the Can-bus connection between the DME and the tiptronic module extend to the immobilizer or other modules? All I could find is information up to the 2001 model year.
Looking for a reason why the DME Is not communicating with the tiptronic and how to test the Can-bus circuit. Is there a wiring schematic available for the 2003/2004 boxster?
Hi all 986 guys.
I will post for the first time.
I have '98 986K(Tip-s),Can I swap 5-Speed(or 6-Speed) manual transmission?
In other words, prepare missions, pedals, manual transmission CPUs, etc. like a typical car model (for ex, BMW).
Is it possible to update only the mission, not the upgrade to 3.4L?
Has anyone ever seen or heard of such a vehicle?
I can find 986K 5speed as much as I want, but I want to stick to my one.
1999 986 2.5 Boxster. (5 spd)
Not many problems with the car but cruise control doesn’t work and the spoiler only extends halfway or so.
Current actual problem with the car is that I can feel vibration or shaking in the steering wheel (and in the car to a much lesser extent) after shifting into fourth gear. After shifting into fourth gear, the shaking seems to persist even as I slow down, or after shifting into fifth. It will persist even if I shift into neutral but will stop after I come to a stop.
It’s strange to me that this is the case when gears 1-3 don’t have this problem. I am guessing that it’s an issue with bearings or alignment in the front wheels since i’m feeling the vibrations in the wheel but hopefully someone here has a better idea.
By Niklas 71
Car: Cayenne turbo 2004, 250 000 km
The problems have been cascading over the summer, starting with a trashed rubber bushing on the cardan shaft support bearing. Before I got home and could fix that (thanks to a great description found in this forum!), the PSM and ABS lights went on. I guessed it was caused by the occasional knocking and wobbling of the cardan shaft.
After fixing the support bearing, the lights stayed on, so I bought an iCarSoft POR II to read fault codes. For some reason, it couldn’t pull codes from the PSM, but there was a fault code in the gearbox controller, about a lack of speed signal from the rear left hand wheel.
I gladly bought a new ABS sensor and replaced it, with no luck. I could remove that fault code but the lights returned and I still couldn’t pull codes from the PSM.
Next, I lifted the floor mats and found a lot of water on the passenger side from a blocked sunroof drain. Much of the wiring was corroded, so I carefully replaced it wire by wire. At the same time, I put in a new battery since the old one was really weak. The car started and ran fine, but the PSM and ABS lights kept coming back.
Next, I wanted to inspect the PSM, so I lifted the plastic cover beneath the wind shield and disconnected the DME in order to get down to the PSM.
The PSM connector looked fine without any traces of corrosion. The same was true for both DME connectors. I just brushed off some dust and put everything back together.
Here’s where my biggest problem occurred: now my car won’t crank the engine at all. When I turn the key, the instrument screen says that “daylight running lights are not active” or something similar. The cooling fans revv up to max but nothing more happens.
i have tried disconnecting the battery for an hour and then reconnecting again without any different behavior.
Any ideas on how I can bring my car back to life again?
Niklas in Sweden