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By Richard in Alberta
Greetings - I have traced a coolant leak to the rear of the alternator - wondering if anyone else has seen this and whether its repairable or I just have to commit to replacing it (once I can find a replacement - they seem to be rather hard to find at the moment).... Cheers.
Hi there, new to the forum and new to Boxster 986 (2months).
I recently discovered that my Boxster is leaking coolant, it all started when I parked it for like 5 hours in a slanted spot with the weight going towards the driver side, came back to go back home and noticed a big mark of coolant under the car. Once I got home I checked the water pump and thermostat area and that’s all dry and no bad signs on the pump at all (there were changed by previews owner about 3 years ago) also not a bad reservoir tank, it’s all dry under the carpet and removed the lid to see the release valve and everything is dry in there too. With further inspection under the car it seems like it’s coming from top of the engine and way back away from water pump. I went on top the engine and saw a little puddle of coolant (pink) sitting on top of the engine (car was running at running temp) vacuumed it to see any new leaks and couldn’t see anything leaking anymore. My question is are there any hoses or anymore coolant system parts under the throttle body that I should be aware of? That was May 12, I’ve been keeping an eye under the car, and coolant level and can’t see anything leaking under the car anymore. I’m assuming the small leak on top the engine gets burnt off and doesn’t make it down. Car is running perfectly, not overheating or flashing temp light. I’m very skilled and comfortable working in the car but since I’m new to it I would like to know what I’m getting into.
Sorry for the long post
I am intrigued. Attached is a photograph of an oil leak from the front of the engine of my 2010 Boxster S. The pics show the front upper and lower oil pan just below the front engine mount when the leak was at its worst. Of course this is the 3.4 DFI engine, the car is pristine and has only covered 33,000 kms.
The history is that the leak was diagnosed as a faulty AOS at the last service a month ago and the AOS was changed. But the leak persisted, not a lot, occasionally a spot on the garage floor but not always. Looking from above and from behind the front seats the engine appeared to be completely dry above the upper oil pan. Also the PDK had become very sluggish and unpredictable when taking off from a standstill but otherwise the car appears to run fine.
When I reported back to the dealer they advised that both problems were caused by the AOS. They said that the new AOS was a faulty part and happily agreed to replace at no cost. This has now been done and after a hot 250 km run the leak has stopped but there is still some oil residue around the lower pan. But nothing like in the attached picture. The dealer advises that this is oil leaking from the intakes left from the bad AOS and that it will clear over time.
Miraculously the PDK is back to perfection so I guess the dealer knows his stuff. But does this make any sense?
My 1998 Boxster suddenly had hot start issues where if left in the sun here in Texas for a few hours would then crank but not fire unless you kept cranking and pressed the throttle. No issues when starting cold. It had thrown some evap leak codes a few times and a secondary AI once but nothing consistent and would also suffer from idle issues if hot start was hard.
Having read many threads I decided that it was not fuel pressure related as in my experience fuel pumps either work or they do not and the same applies to the associated relay.
I read someone blocked off the valve under the lhs air intake plenum and when I did this the hot start problem disappeared but gave other idle issues.
I decided to replace this valve and in the process also decided to clean the throttle body and iacv when I discovered oil in the aos and j tube the aos was replaced 3 years ago.
Having replaced the valve and the aos the car appears to be running better than ever.
I had no white smoke issues or oil cap pressure test problems and the old valve was in the closed position when I removed it so that may not have been an issue.
This whole situation had gone on for many weeks and also gave air leak codes in both banks but using a smoke generator revealed no issues.
I am starting to prepare my car for a track day at Chuckwalla valley raceway at the end of the month, and I was told that the car as it sits has oiling issues? My car is a 2003 Carrera. I bought the car last year with 74k miles and immediately did the following: LN IMS bearing, Waterpump, coil packs, spark plugs, all filters and fluids, clutch + flywheel and a stock AOS. In anticipation of the event, I am going to do an oil change from M1 0w-40 to the Joe Gibbs dt40 oil suggested by Jake Raby along with fresh filters. Is there anything else I need to do to not have oil starvation? Is this issue blown out of proportion? does the 2qt sump extension make that much of a difference? will it affect the streetability? I am running 200tw tires.