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Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
hey guys , past couple months my cayenne s 04 air suspension warning light has been on, after a minute of driving. when i try lowing or raising the vehicle, the front end works fine but the rear suspension stay stationery in raise mode. even when using the diagnostic to force the rear to lower nothing happens .fault codes in the level control system was for rear suspension holding valve . so i went ahead and replaced both rear holding valve and recalibrate the suspension. it worked fine for two months .now the warning light is back the rear suspension is stuck in high and not lowing.
new fault codes p1780 , 1400
im unsure what to do. do i replace the valve again or is there some else wrong
what do you guys think?
I started noticing this intermittent creak/groan on the driver's side front suspension, every time I egress the car, after a spirited drive.
I have had some creaking due to the lubrication loss in the ball joint area from the rear and have used the hole-in-the-rubber-boot to inject grease to keep the noise from recurring. I did the same for the front, just to be sure.
This noise puzzles me.
Based on my research, it may be the front strut mount bearing but didn't want to go about replacing parts without your opinions.
It doesn't occur when the steering wheel is moved from corner to corner though or feel different during a drive.
Shows up only when there is downward pressure on the foot area in the driver side, during egress or when pressure is applied on the car side fender over/near the strut area.
Here is a video of the latter, for audio on two creak/groans between the spring movement.
Appreciate your insights on what this can be...
My car is clocking nearly 173K ...so wondering if this can be a simple DIY or figure out the need to have a complete strut bearing and/or strut replacement.
I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock.
When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle.
Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts.
I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up.
The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success