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I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.
Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).
My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.
- my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
- are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system
- a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up
Which radios fitted to Porsche can have their unlock code recovered through serial number?
- CR-220/CDR-220 - Becker
- CR-210/CDR-210 - Becker
- Traffic Pro NAV/CD - Becker
Which radios can not have their unlock code recovered through serial number?
- CR1 - Alpine
- CDR-23/24 (or later) - Becker
- PCM (Porsche Communication Management) – Siemens & Becker
How to get your radio serial number?
Hold down the TP button for at least 10 seconds after you turn the radio on. "Becker 1" will be displayed. Rotate the right knob (slowly) and it will display the Becker model number. Then rotate it again and the serial number should be displayed on the radio.
Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label.
Press tone, then 8 and 0 simultaneously. "Becker" appears. Press station up arrow on right. "PR-VERS" appears. Press one of the numbered buttons below the display, directly below the LCD arrowheads (try a few). The model number will appear. Press station up arrow on right. "SERIAL N" will appear. Press the numbered button again. The serial number will appear.
Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label.
CDR-23 (or later):
These radios do not have a security code - that is, not that the user enters.
These radios are security tested on the MOST (fiber optic bus) system to see if they are the "programmed" radio. The radios are programmed and recognized by the car’s DME and can only be replaced by a shop with a PST2 or PIWIS. These radios will not request a code when battery power is disconnected.
Select the Service Menu, press NAV and multifunction key 10 simultaneously in radio mode. Use multifunction keys Nxt and Prv or turn the right control knob to select the individual items.
You can move through the following items:
- Serial-No. <-- this is what we need
- Changer Reset
- Radio Software
- Radio Bolo
- Navi Rom
- Navi Flash
- RTC Value
To quit the service menu, press END.
I get a WAIT on the display - what do I do?
You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again.
The suggested number did not work - what do I do now?
Most often when the code we give you does not work it is because the serial number came from an old card in the car rather than from the procedure stated above - or a typo in the serial number submitted. Double check the serial number you submitted using the procedure above again.
If that does not work then you will need to contact a dealer or Becker. Becker charges to look up your code and some dealers also charge.
Our program works maybe 99.9% of the time but we have no explanation why it doesn't always work.
Can you give me a code for my PCM?
These units are manufactured jointly by Siemens and Becker, and the only place where you can get the codes required is from the dealer/ OPC. The PCM’s require two codes, the ICS/Siemens code, and a Becker code. The ICS is the first code requested.
Sorry, the only place you can get a PCM code is from a dealer/ OPC.
Can I post my VIN to get a code?
We do NOT need your VIN - only your radio serial number.
Where can I post my lost code request?
Please post your request here:
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
Please DO NOT PM me or email me (or anyone else helping with the codes) your radio code request - we will only answer requests in that one thread.
(60,000km on the odometer) Now the car is completely dead with no Interior lights anywhere. Car was sitting there with a charger on timer charging for maybe an hour per day for a month while I was on vacation. The CD/radio was making a clicking sound prior to and I thought the battery needs a boost to start after a month. Now nothing!
Well almost nothing - behind the dash board there is some very weak clicking/sound.
Thought I ask here first - before towing it to the Porsche dealership. 😩
I have a 2003 Boxster with the CDR23 radio and external amplifier mounted in the front trunk. There are two multi-pin connectors, a fiber optic connector and an antenna connector on the rear of the head unit. The display on the head unit in the car seems to be fine as the display appears to be working as it should. The problem is no sound out of any speakers. The problem was intermittent for quite a while as sometimes when I started the car I would have sound from the speakers and other times no sound. Sometimes I would be driving and the sound would suddenly just quit. Now there is no sound at all, but the head unit display still appears to be working ok. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem?
By Charles Bradley
My drivers' side headlight was replaced by the dealership after an accident. It has worked fine for two years since, but recently decided to stop working. I get a "check dipped beam" message on the cluster as a result. The turn signals work, as does a single little light on the outer side of the assembly. The main and high beam do not.
After taking it out to inspect, I noticed that the electrical harness connector on the back was the problem. When I could force it into the headlights socket, the lights all powered up and worked fine, as did the high beam. So a poor connection is the culprit.
One of the tabs on the side of the white connector was broken off, so the connector wiggles in its place. I imagine that the force of the headlight being pushed back wiggled it just enough that it wouldnt' seat into the headlight assembly. But getting that white connector into the socket and then back into its place without being able to get my hand in from the rear of the light was not apparent. I also noted that the insulation on all the wires was terribly frayed and coming off in my hands as I examined it.
But with a new connector in hand, I don't see how to wiggle the old one out. It slides in from the side on the back of the tray holding the headlight assembly, but is blocked from sliding out all the way.
How do I rectify this?