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2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time?
Thanks in advance.
By Steve Mongrain
Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/ IMS job.
While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles.
Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
Looking for your help? I just did a complete clutch replacement on my 2003 Boxster. After getting the engine and transmission in and completely bleeding the clutch hydraulics 3 time, my clutch pedal sticks after depressing especially at higher rpms. Did something else break in the process? Thank you for your responses.
Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question:
"What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?"
The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed.
When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier.
In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel.
Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation?
I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly.
I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car.
Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I recently bought a 2005 Boxster S with 76,000km (47,000 miles). The used car dealer said the cluch had been slipping and smelling, and that he replaced it with a new clutch before selling the car to me.
This is my first Porsche, so I have no past experience to tell me what the clutch is supposed to feel like. But when I took it to a Porsche centre for service they told me that it picks up too low in the pedal travel. They also said it's slipping, which must be fairly slight because I can't sense it at all.
So I went back to the used car dealer to get it fixed under warranty, and they asked me to come back in January "to show them the problem".
So here's my question: assuming there is something wrong, as the Porsche centre says, how can I prove it to a sceptical used car dealer?