Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

2007 997 was running rough. The Durametric said misfire cylinder one. Checked the forums and saw most likely culprit was either bad spark plug, bad ignition coil, or both. Oreilly’s had the Bosch spark plug and a coul that was labeled Import Direct. For the sake of convenience I bought the plug and coil from them. The coil was actually the newer version Beru ( oem) with the longer bolts. Much easier job than I ever imagined. There are good tutorials on YouTube. Engine runs great and I cleared the codes. No check engine light and codes haven’t returned. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

That's good to know the a discount store has "the good stuff", meaning, correct late version part! Very good indeed!

 

As an FYI, my local Porsche dealer honors PCA members with a discount. They take care of me very well! The last part I purchased, a push rod including the pivot bolt and captive nut for Tiptronic shifting linkage (986-426-043-01), ended up costing less for all 3 parts than online sources charge for just the rod.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sort of, . . . it wasn't that it was difficult, it just wouldn't - do anything!

 

There is a "cam" on the side of the Tip where the shifter cable connects to, and this pushrod. The pushrod then is attached to the electronic box that tells the car what gear it's in. My old pushrod broke, the plastic ball-socket end totally came off of the pushrod, hence nothing. I was in a parking lot and had just shifted into Manual but the dash indicator show M-2, not M-1. I found that at that moment no other shifting could be accomplished. I could go forward only.

 

After ten minutes of tinkering, my date and I went to dinner in her car. Afterwards I had mine towed home where I confirmed my assumption of "where" the problem was, and discovered "what" was broken. After much searching I found only two posts related to this problem. I ordered the part from my pal at Porsche on Monday and installed it the next day.

 

I can imagine that if someone has a "difficult to shift" problem that it could be that the plastic end is slightly pulled from the metal rod making it "longer". It doesn't have a very long throw to its operation, so it wouldn't take much to make it "outa wack" as My Cousin Vinny would say.

 

In the attached photos, the first one shows the cam linkages. The larger joint on the right is where the metal rod end of the shifter cable connects to, and the middle joint is the pushrod that broke. The second photo shows my fingers holding the plastic end that pulled off the end of the pushrod. Keep in mind that this is on a 986, and I know this is off topic, but I don't know how else to answer the question of the op except for keeping this info here.

 

IMG_2316.JPG

IMG_2319.JPG

Edited by ttocs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put the car up on jack stands and was able to remove the broken pushrod and install the new one without removing anything else except one rear wheel. The toughest part was removing the old captive nut (push-on washer with fins).I worked on it for probably a half hour, then I finally had to resort to using a roto-hammer with a chisel bit to totally destroy that thin piece of metal, took about a minute.

 

You may want to consider becoming a Contributing Member which gives you access to Porsche mechanical diagrams with part numbers, etc. This is how I got the part number for the pushrod. When I went to the Porsche dealer to order the part they had the same diagram on their computer, I just pointed at the parts I wanted because I was already familiar with that diagram.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information. I think I will become a contributing member. I have Durametric cable and software and the shop manual (all 5000+ pages) on dvd, but this website has been extremely helpful. Folks who have “been there done that” are an invaluable resource. 

Thanks again. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Rubensdw
      Hi all, 
      This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum ! 

      I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed. 
      Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.

      Over to the issue for my car:
      When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust. 
      When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound. 
      But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.

      The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.

      Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ? 
      Thanks in advance for any help ! 

       
    • By Danny Hammoud
      Unfortunately, I am back with another problem or problems........
      A couple of days ago a check engine light popped up on my 997.2s and because it is my daily driver, I was not able to immediately diagnose the issue. I went ahead and ordered a "Carsoft POR II" scanner off amazon as i thought it would help my understanding in what the problem was. (Getting to the point.....)   Today while I was driving home from class, the car was running very rough. I decided to pull over and give the scanner a go...
      DME CODES;
      P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE
      P0153 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT BANK 2 DYNAMISM 
      P2099 A/F  RATIO CORRECT. BEH. CAT. BANK 2 ABOVE RICH CONTROL UNIT
      P2198 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT. BANK 2 TOO RICH SIGNAL
      P0174 BANK 2 TOO LEAN
      P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN
      P2196 02 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK BANK 1 SENSOR 1
       
      Being the person I am, I went ahead and cleared the codes dreaming my problems would magically go away. ?
      About 10 minutes into my commute the codes again popped up but this time, there was something a bit different.......
       
      THE NEW CODES INCLUDED;
      P0174 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2
      P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1
      P0306 MISFIRE CYLINDER 6
      P0305 MISFIRE CYLINDER 5 
      P0304 MISFIRE CYLINDER 4
      P0300 MISFIRE - TOTAL ERROR
      P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE
       
      About 2 months ago I installed a new O2 sensor bank 1 sensor. While at it, I had a new AOS installed as well ( OEM parts). There are some theories I have in mind but as for now, I am truly stumped on this issue. Does anyone have any experience with this madness?! Thanks for reading! ?
       
      This morning I started my car again and a puff of white smoke shot out of the tail pipes. The smoke did clear up really quick. 
       
      MORE NEW CODES;
      P2A04 O2 SENSOR CIRCUT RANGE/ PERFORMANCE BANK 2 SENSOR 2
      P2099 POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 2
      P0153 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 2 SENSOR 1
      P2198 O2 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK RICH BANK 2 SENSOR 1
      P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1
       
    • By TNT79Bronco
      I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996.  It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going.  After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire.  Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business.  Upon returning to the car, it ran fine.  No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away.
      All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on.  I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again.  This time it did not, and I limped it on home.  After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes.  They were:
      P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected
      P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1
      P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5
      P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3
      P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4
       
      These are on both banks.
      After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine.  No CEL and smooth running.  I drove it a couple of times, without incident.
       However, today, I went out to drive the car.  Went a short distance…all was fine.  When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on.  Checked codes and all I have is:
       P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected
      P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1
       The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm.  The car was not driven in the rain.  This would possibly point to bad coils.
       I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring.  No change in idle.
      Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once?  But possible.  Same with spark plugs.
       One item of note.  This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it.  The current engine has about 30K miles on it.  I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on.
       Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?
    • By Jacko007
      Hoping to purchase this car.. They ran a DME and this shows only 19 Over Revs in Range 1  with none across the other ranges.. there are a "high"? number of misfires?  Is this a concern or perhaps normal and maybe just require plugs / coil packs?  My 1st Porsche.. I hope...


    • By mileet38
      Hi guys,
       
      I'm new to the site so please be patient with me? (Also grammar isn't my strong point)
       
      So, I've owned my 2003 996 carrera for the past 2 years and for the most part its been trouble free. I got it with 110,000 miles its now got 130,000.
       
      Maybe 5-6 times over the last year it's  started misfiring as I come to a stop, it starts up after maybe 2 minutes and misfires for 30-40seconds, then runs fine.
       
      The last two times this has happened the display has said low oil pressure as it's been misfiring, but then starts running normally with no message?
       
      Any how just before Christmas I started the car as normal and left it ticking over but got held up,so it was probably idling for 40mins. I heard a loud misfiring sound and it cut out. I thought it had run out of fuel so I put a gallon in and it went up to a quarter. I tried starting it but it turns over but won't start. I have since had it towed in to a garage and they have plugged the computer into it and no faults are showing. Can anyone help as the garage isn't to sure?
       
      Thanks in advance 
      Mileet
       
      P.S. it's a triptronic
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.