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I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.
The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.
Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.
-Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?
-Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?
-Any other clutch kit recommendations?
-Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?
Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?
By Steve Mongrain
Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/IMS job.
While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles.
Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
Looking for your help? I just did a complete clutch replacement on my 2003 Boxster. After getting the engine and transmission in and completely bleeding the clutch hydraulics 3 time, my clutch pedal sticks after depressing especially at higher rpms. Did something else break in the process? Thank you for your responses.
Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question:
"What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?"
The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed.
When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier.
In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel.
Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation?
I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly.
I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car.
Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.