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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement - Sanity Check Please


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I have read the DIY and old posts until I am cross-eyed.  I think I have a handle on this but, just to be sure, would someone in the know just review my list please?

 

I have a hydraulic press.  It seems I have the choice of removing the carrier/hub and R&R the bearing using my press OR if I purchase a bearing removal kit like the SIR tools I can do this work with the carrier still mounted to the car.  Is this correct?  I am actually leaning towards buying the tools just to minimize the amount of parts I have to remove.

 

I have read there are bearings with a magnetic disc inside for the speed sensor and that this needs to be correctly oriented.  I have also read this applies to 2005 & newer cars so this is a non-issue with my 2004?  Confirm please.

 

I have read the bearing sourcing discussions and I'm sure the F A G or NTN equivalents are fine, but for the money I plan to use the Porsche part.  Doesn't sound like a job one would want to do over and I'm hoping using the Porsche bearing will ensure this doesn't happen.

 

Any other comments or suggestions before I dive in?

 

 

 

 

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  • Moderators
16 minutes ago, toddmac12 said:

Check this out. Check the video out at 22:50 for the tool that is used to remove and install the bearings .
 

 


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

 

 

The tool is an OTC 6575-1 Hub Grappler Puller, available on Amazon.

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Nice tool.  Are either of you suggesting that the work is best done with the upright off the car plus a small expensive pile of pullers?  It does look a little involved to be doing on the car but I thought that was the point of the SIR tool set?

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3 hours ago, rockhouse66 said:

Nice tool.  Are either of you suggesting that the work is best done with the upright off the car plus a small expensive pile of pullers?  It does look a little involved to be doing on the car but I thought that was the point of the SIR tool set?

 

I am not suggesting that at all.  Changing the wheel bearings without having to dismantle the suspension saves a huge amount of time, which of course is the same as money in the shop.  Shops buy the tools like the SIR product to save billing hours for the customer, as well as any realignment costs.

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The SIR Tool is crazy expensive (approx. $600 - well worth it if you're a pro or planning to do the job more than a few times). I looked around for something like the one JFP showed you (I actually saw that one but couldn't tell if it would be large enough) but wound up making one out of some scrap steel. It wound up working extremely well and only cost me a few dollars and some time. I did my front bearings, but the job is similar (my hub carriers were off btw...I was re-doing the whole suspension). Good Luck

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Ask on the classifieds Wanted list. I sold one last year for $250.

I was only using it once or twice a year - but other DIY Porsche owners likely use it once and then sell it to another person in need.

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I bought the tool for $140 on Amazon. It's called Hub grappler puller. You will also have to get a hub puller set which sells around $100. It will more then pay for itself because the dealer or auto shop will charge you much more.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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Well, right or wrong, I bought the CTA 8650 tool kit, which I think is a knockoff of the SIR kit.  It was under $300 delivered.  I have also purchased the bearings from Sunset to do both rear wheels.  It will be a while before I get to this project but, when I do, I'll provide some feedback on the tools and anything helpful to future DIYers that I learn.

 

Thanks for the input from members.

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  • 1 month later...

OK, I am all done except for final torque on the axle nut.  The tools worked fine.  The job, as a whole, was a physically tough PIA for me.  Working the axle shafts out and back in, dealing with the hub removal from the bearing, etc.  This is working alone but with a lift.

 

If this really is a 2 hr. per side labor charge at the Porsche dealer, I would recommend just paying them to do it.  I would love to watch this job done in 2 hrs. per side.

 

BTW - would it be good practice to put some anti-seize on the axle threads or just leave it dry?  340 ft-lbs seems like it would like some lube.

Edited by rockhouse66
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I'm pretty sure the Torque spec is dry. This being said, I put anti-seize on just about everything (unless specified otherwise) and have never had a problem (except getting a fastener off something without anti-seize...). Glad you got it done!

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Yeah, me too!  The car is still on the lift and messing around at the front I think the RF wheel bearing needs to be replaced.  Sounds scratchy when spun (and no, it isn't dragging on the rotor - this is with caliper/rotor removed).  So, I get to use my tools again.  And this should be a piece of cake without the drive shaft to deal with.?

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On 8/21/2018 at 11:05 AM, rockhouse66 said:

Yeah, me too!  The car is still on the lift and messing around at the front I think the RF wheel bearing needs to be replaced.  Sounds scratchy when spun (and no, it isn't dragging on the rotor - this is with caliper/rotor removed).  So, I get to use my tools again.  And this should be a piece of cake without the drive shaft to deal with.?

I did my front bearings, and I've got a C4 so...I'll be ready for the rears when/if I have to do them ?

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