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Chris Farmer

Fluid types, volumes, & change intervals, 2006 Cayenne S

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I just bought a high-milage 2006 Cayenne S so I put together a nice fluid types/volumes chart similar to what you find in domestic car manuals for older vehicles.  My sources for this info are:  owners manual, service manual, Porsche minor/major maintenance checklists, pelicanparts.com, and google search.  I posted this as a resource that might help others looking for this information.  Note there is an option for a limited slip rear differential (mine does not have that option) but if yours does you will need the friction modifier in the gear oil as well this can be added to regular gear oil but many parts stores sell the gear oil with this additive already incorporated.  It does not hurt an open differential to use gear oil with a friction modifier, its just a small waste of money for additive that you don't need.

 

I have a couple questions:

What is the engine oil change interval? the minor maintenance checklist says 40k miles but this seems too long.

What is the power steering fluid change interval? its not listed anywhere.

Also based on your experience with maintaining porsche should any of the change intervals for the below items be shorter/longer?

Anything else a new porsche owner should know about maintenance?

Any good scan tools out there for porsche that don't cost over 1000$?

 

Part Interval (miles) Volume OEM Alternative Cost Notes
Engine Air Filter 80k or 4 yrs - 955 110 131 00 Mann C 39 219 16$ ea
quantity of 2 filters are needed for each change
Spark Plug 60k or 4 yrs - 999 170 218 90 Bosch FGR 6 KQE (identical) 38$ set
1.6mm gap, 19-22 ftlbs, surface discharge type, projected
Engine Oil 40k or 4 yrs 9 qt   Mobil 1, 0w-40 26$ 5,qt
see owners manual for other options
Engine Oil Filter 40k or 4 yrs - 996 107 225 53 Bosch 72-207WS-INT 15$ ea
Transmission Oil 160k or 16 yrs 9 qt 000 043 205 28 Aisin 958-300-901-00-M351 9$ qt
Transmission Oil Filter 160k or 16 yrs - 955 307 403 01 Bilstein 955-307-403-01-M36 20$ ea
Rear Diff Fluid (open) 160k or 16 yrs 1.5 qt 000 043 205 30 75w-90 full syn, gl5, no friction modifier 6$ qt
Front Diff Fluid 160k or 16 yrs 1.1 qt 000 043 205 30 75w-90 full syn, gl5, no friction modifier 6$ qt
Transfer Case Fluid 160k or 16 yrs 0.9 qt 000 043 305 63 Shell TF-0870 17$ qt
Power Steering Fluid ???? 1.6 qt 000 043 305 74 Pentosin CHF 202 14$ qt
CHF 202 supersedes CHF 11S
Brake Fluid 2 yrs 1 qt   DOT 4    
Coolant Antifreeze 150k or 5 yrs  4.8 - 5.5 gal 000 043 305 15 Zerex G-40 25$ gal
same price for concentrate or pre-diluted; concentrate may not be available in all areas

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I don't let my 06 S go that long on oil, about 10-15K for oil and filter.

 

I pulled my air filters to check every time and they can go forever. I've only needed to do it once in 6-7 years.

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I really would not run oil for even 10K, based on UOA's 5-7K is more like it, particularly on engines with known tendency to score the cylinder walls.

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On 1/15/2019 at 3:26 PM, JFP in PA said:

I really would not run oil for even 10K, based on UOA's 5-7K is more like it, particularly on engines with known tendency to score the cylinder walls.

 

This is the first time I have heard about the cylinder scoring issue.  Seems the engine might wear faster than other engines in that regard.  Do you think that longer warm ups (in addition to more frequent oil changes) would help with slowing the cylinder wear?  I assume that most of the wear happens the moment you start the engine so a longer warmup probably doesn't matter.  I have never been a believer or fan of oil or fuel treatments as they are not part of any official OEM service procedure (other than treating gas for water during long storage).  However in this case do you think a product like redline SI-1 would help reduce startup wear?

 

I have noticed an odd tappet/valve type noise from the engine that reminds me of engines without hydraulic valve lifters (like valve lash noise).  The noise is mild and dose not change over the duration of a drive.  It's nothing as severe sounding as a leaking hydraulic valve lifter  (like a engine with fully leaked down lifters during starting).  I've read this could be piston slap or it could be some sort of timing chain slap due to ignition timing.  The engine does have a slightly rough idle but I have no loss of power, no codes, no smoke in the exhaust (although exhaust tips are rather sooty). 

 

I'm probably not going to dig into this issue too much yet but I'm interested in it from an academic standpoint.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Chris Farmer said:

 

This is the first time I have heard about the cylinder scoring issue.  Seems the engine might wear faster than other engines in that regard.  Do you think that longer warm ups (in addition to more frequent oil changes) would help with slowing the cylinder wear?  I assume that most of the wear happens the moment you start the engine so a longer warmup probably doesn't matter.  I have never been a believer or fan of oil or fuel treatments as they are not part of any official OEM service procedure (other than treating gas for water during long storage).  However in this case do you think a product like redline SI-1 would help reduce startup wear?

 

I have noticed an odd tappet/valve type noise from the engine that reminds me of engines without hydraulic valve lifters (like valve lash noise).  The noise is mild and dose not change over the duration of a drive.  It's nothing as severe sounding as a leaking hydraulic valve lifter  (like a engine with fully leaked down lifters during starting).  I've read this could be piston slap or it could be some sort of timing chain slap due to ignition timing.  The engine does have a slightly rough idle but I have no loss of power, no codes, no smoke in the exhaust (although exhaust tips are rather sooty). 

 

I'm probably not going to dig into this issue too much yet but I'm interested in it from an academic standpoint.

 

 

 

Cylinder scoring is a major problem on all alloy engines, particularly those with DFI fuel systems. It is not just limited to Porsches:

 

A3SwFtrCEAA-6Ev.jpg

 

Once this happens, you need a rebuild.  Some of the major contributors to this is fuel puddling  which washes the oil off the walls and piston skirts, again particularly on DFI engines, although it can occur on earlier injection systems as well.  Allowing the engine to warm up helps, but the largest corrective measure you can take is quality oil (read high levels of ZDDP) and frequent changes.

 

Sooty tail pipes is an early indication of this type of issue.

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On 1/22/2019 at 1:04 PM, JFP in PA said:

 

Cylinder scoring is a major problem on all alloy engines, particularly those with DFI fuel systems. It is not just limited to Porsches:

 

A3SwFtrCEAA-6Ev.jpg

 

Once this happens, you need a rebuild.  Some of the major contributors to this is fuel puddling  which washes the oil off the walls and piston skirts, again particularly on DFI engines, although it can occur on earlier injection systems as well.  Allowing the engine to warm up helps, but the largest corrective measure you can take is quality oil (read high levels of ZDDP) and frequent changes.

 

Sooty tail pipes is an early indication of this type of issue.

 

I looked over amsoil product list and they have a 0w40 signature series and a 0w40 european vehicles (that specifically mentions porsche A40 oil spec).  Elsewhere on the web it sounds like the european specifications have very specific (and sometimes reduced) additive packages that are compatible with the emissions equipment.  My guess is the signature series is a bit better than the european version for wear resistance but it might not be fully compatible with the emissions system on the car?  What oil do you use?

 

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25 minutes ago, Chris Farmer said:

 

I looked over amsoil product list and they have a 0w40 signature series and a 0w40 european vehicles (that specifically mentions porsche A40 oil spec).  Elsewhere on the web it sounds like the european specifications have very specific (and sometimes reduced) additive packages that are compatible with the emissions equipment.  My guess is the signature series is a bit better than the european version for wear resistance but it might not be fully compatible with the emissions system on the car?  What oil do you use?

 

 

Gibbs DT40, and full synthetic 5W-40 oil that still has a very high ZDDP level and excellent film strength.  Your "emissions system" can be replaced in the driveway with hand tools, cylinder liners not so much...……...

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I change the oil on my Cayenne at 5K max, oil changes are the easiest and least expensive way to keep your car on the road. 

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