Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Silber
      Recently I replace the Variocam Ramps on my 2002 boxster S.
       
      Reassembly went well but I have a timing problem for the cams afterwards, trying to figure out the fix.
       
      Bank one at Idle actual cam angle is about 6, deviation is blank.
       
       Once the car warms up to 180, the actual angle goes to close to zero, and the deviation is about 5 to 6. 
       
       Bank 2 is as you would expect, actual angle around zero at cold idle, deviation around zero at warm idle.
       
      My recollection is that before disassembly the Durametric showed that actual angle at idle when cold was close to zero On bank one.
       
      I read that actual angle may not represent what I think it does, I read somewhere that it represents the amount of Variocam influence on the cams, not the actual timing.
       
      Can someone possibly explain what the actual angle means? Bonus points if someone can explain to me what exactly is wrong with my car, my best guess is either I have a bad variocam actuator problem or I assembled things with intake cam one tooth off.
       
      Regards,
       
      silber
    • By Garra671
      Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after.    Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
       
      Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V?     True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle.    Thanks in advance 
    • By Wisefurn1
      Recently had my air oil seperator replaced. At start ran a little rough now runs super rough and wants to stall. Changed 2 pre cat o2 sensors and mass air flow sensor. These are the current codes, 0112, 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 1316, 0102, 0130. Prior the car ran perfect and I cant believe I have all those cylinders misfiring because of plugs or coils. Please help
    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor.  As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle.  I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for.  I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptronic, you have no direct line of sight to the sensor unless you move the oxygen sensor plug/receptacle.  Hopefully these pictures will help anyone else trying to replace the CPS no a tip.
       
      In order to see the CPS  you must unplug the oxygen sensor, remove the receptacle mounting bolt and push both cables and mount/receptacle out of your way.  The view shown here is from underneath the car looking up towards the wheel well and CV joint.

      A wider view of the area you need to look into remove the oxygen sensor, receptacle, and bracket.  You can follow the cable from the oxygen sensor to the bracket in order to find it more easily.

      This is your entry point and trajectory.  Just beside the right rear brake caliper, under the brake fluid line, past the coolant reservoir drain hose.  The extension is probably all of 18 inches to get you deep into where you need to be to unscrew the bolt holding the CPS in place.  I used the light you see plus a large work light on the floor to finally visualize the sensor.  The only way I was finally able to find the sensor was to identify the cable from the sensor and follow it by hand and light.  That is when I realized I could not see it due to the oxygen sensor plug being in the way.

      This is just a wider shot of the entry using the light as a reference and the brake caliper is in the foreground.

      Here is a view of the CPS still in place, but the bolt has been removed.  The oxygen sensor plug and receptacle have also been removed and pushed out of the way.  Once you see the CPS, it is obvious that is what you've been looking for.  What I think are coolant hoses are very close to the trajectory you need to access the bolt.  My extensions were pushed up right next to these hoses and I had to push on them with the tool in order to get access to the bolt.

       
       
      Just a couple of other tips and tricks.  The bolt of the CPS is held on by thread locker.  Make sure you have good engagement with your male hex into the screw head during removal, otherwise it could strip.  I recommend ordering a new screw for the CPS while you're at it, the newer ones are torx and less likely to strip.  Once you locate the CPS you will find that you can actually reach in there with your fingers through a path in order to push it out of and into the hole.  When you go to put in your new CPS, place it in first without the bolt.  You can wiggle it into the hole reasonably easy with your fingers through the aforementioned path.  When you go to place the bolt, either use a magnetic tool or tape the bolt to your male hex so that it doesn't fall off.  Yours truly lost the original bolt and still have yet to find it.  Luckily it is a pretty standard M6x16 available at your local hardware store.  But I have no clue where that bolt ended up.  I searched by every means possible including a powerful magnet around the area of loss and still could not find it.
       
      Hope this helps save you the hour or so of searching in your 986 Tiptronic for the CPS.  Remove that O2 sensor harness first and you'll save a bunch of time and frustration!
       
    • By Christiaan Poortman
      Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
       
      The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
       
      Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. 
       
      The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
       
      I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
       
      No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. 
       
      Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
       
      Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.