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Similar Content
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By yeeha68
Hello All,
My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air. The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does. I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi. Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario? Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve? I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog.
I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue. I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything.
Thanks in advance for any input.
-k
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By 9552T500
Hi - on my 06 CTTS, over the last few months I noticed occasionally awful smell inside the cabin while driving. My research so far indicates that it is emitted from vents when AC system is on. Believe it smells like sth. burned, and is not present when I switch AC system completely off. Did anybody experience this before on a 955 Cayenne, Turbo or Turbo S ? Thanks in advance.
PS.: side note. It may be coincidence or completely unrelated, but as far as electrical problems I am noticing for about comparable amount of time that the horn is dead (silence when pressing the steering wheel center...).
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By 51.50
Let me start by saying I'm not a mechanic, so I do not know the names of certain parts. This is of a 2004 Porsche Cayenne Turbo w/ 4-Zone Climate
However, what I do know is, the A/C electric motor (955.624.915.01) under passenger side dash is steadily going back and forth regardless of A/C or Heat On/Off, High Low, Dash,Floor, Etc. It connects to a flap on the passenger side firewall. Pictures are of the same part, just different angles.
My question is this. How do I test this electric motor to determine if it is bad? Or could something else be bad causing the motor to constantly move? Any response will be appreciated.
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By Viper6
OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal). I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend. As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business!
The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later. Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine!
My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)? Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap? If the concensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/Desicant module, etc.)?
Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick! Be gentle...
P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?
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By gt300zxtt
A few weeks ago, I took my 2005 cayenne turbo (50k odo) to the dealership hoping for a scan/diagnostic of the a/c (bought it during the winter, so didn't know it was faulty). What I walked out with was the recommendation to change the battery (they said the car was in a degraded state/power save mode because of the battery state) and that it would take 3400 to change the receiver/drier, thermostatic valve, and compressor. I had my doubts, and was really hoping for a better diagnosis, as any a/c shop could have blindly given me that diagnosis. Plus, I have the basic mechanic skills to follow DIY guides and the factory service manual, so I wasn't going to pay them for their exhorbitant labor fees. I knew the dealer had problems with the battery and that I was not maintained properly during the winter by them. So, I replaced the battery that day. Later that week, after shopping online, I replaced the items (but didn't buy a porsche compressor) and had it rechecked at the dealership (pro bono). A few days prior to turning in the vehicle, I told them I replaced the items, had the same problem, and was looking for a full diagnostic (including an oil monitor workshop failure that popped up). Lo and behold, I got the same diagnosis to change the same items! They said the compressor was still seized and that the clutch was not engaging. Apparently the maintenance rep didn't include anything from my previous phone call in my file. Also, apparently their "shop foreman that eats and breathes porsche" failed to notice that the items were changed (we also argued/discussed how he diagnosed the seized compressor since it doesn't have the traditional clutch of older compressors). After I pointed that out and asked for a scan diagnostic, he mentioned that the compressor was the incorrect model. At this point, I have lost all faith with this porsche dealership, and maybe all of them without recommendation. Noting the difference in the compressor though, I bit the bullet and replaced the compressor with a new porsche compressor, yet I still have the same problems. I have tried adding an inline jumper with hot wire from harness to hot wire on compressor and ground wire from compressor straight to the chassis. I have read one post reply on rennlist where a user experienced blowing warm air and an oil monitor workshop failure but they failed to mention the fix! I have read some posts where replacing coil packs has fixed some electrical issues. After flushing at least $2k trying to get a/c working for the summer, I am at a loss of where to go from here. I could go to a local a/c shop, but doubt I will get a proper diagnostic(semi rural southern maryland). Driving over an hour to get shammed by the dealership again doesn't seem like an option given the previous experiences, definitely not the same one. I could get a scan tool, but I am not sure it will have the full capability needed (please correct me if you think this will be my golden ticket to narrowing down to the precise problem, or if you are near southern maryland and would like to help me out with a scan). I could replace the ignition coils, but that feels like throwing money blindly at the problem without an electrical diagnostic to back it up, or at least successful results from other users with same symptoms. what do yall think? can anyone tell me how to run a good electrical diagnostic of the a/c? anyone have the same or similar problem? Thanks in advance as I am pretty sick at how much money I have thrown at it without it working.
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