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Help, both driver and passenger window go down by themselves after shutting the car off. Usually within 5 minutes. This has become a big problem in the rainy season. Any help would be much appreciated.
I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does.
When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists.
I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated.
So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :)
Now, the last 2 weeks:
Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software)
In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens.
I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior:
Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed.
The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down.
The hydraulic oil is always full.
Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.
My 2002 C4 Cabrio top more often than not, will fail to open or close when using the switch. It always works (up/down) when I operate it with the key.
Condition under which the top will consistently work:
* insert key into the door lock
* turn left or right and hold
* top goes up/down respectively
Conditions under which the top INconsistently works:
* Key on the ingition (engine running or not)
* e-brake engaged all the way
* door(s) open or close
* activate the convertible switch
* Sometimes the top will go Down, but most times the top indicator on the dashboard will blink 4 times and nothing happens
* Sometimes the top will go UP, but most times I'll get the 4 blinks
* Sometimes the top will go UP/Down without any issues, under the same conditions.
Battery is less than two months old, and have no indication that the battery may be the root of the problem
All joints on the top are properly lubricated
Do not hear any grinding noises, and when the top moves, the top motor is smooth and quiet
I've read all I could find on this topic and I'm leaning towards a microswitch, Shouldn't the 4 blinks indicate which microswitch to replace? how do I test each?
Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the convertible top drain pan hose? I will be replacing the drain pan also. Can you see the hose and how to install it after the drain pan is removed? Can the hose be removed and reinstalled from above, or do you you also need access from under the car? Where is the drain hose clamp located? Is it likely to need replacement also? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!