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2010 Carrera S 6M Cab 150k miles

TLDR: Dealer tells me the code is 2402 and Durametric returns 0024 with a description that matches the dealer.
I am getting screwey values when I look up actual values.
I try to clear codes and they don't seem to clear.
Has anyone else seen this?

I got CEL after about 1000 miles after replacing the catalytic converters myself. I pulled the codes with my Durametric and got:
0024 - DMTL Diagnosis module for tank leakage; pump drive rUpper limit exceeded
0010 - Intake camshaft driver

I took it to Porsche because I wrongly figured this was related to my cats. They pulled the codes and said the car was throwing 2402 and that the 0010 was in the system but had been there for a long time and was not relevant.

Now I had cleared that 0010 about a half dozen times so I thought it was fresh. It did not register at the time, but that means my reset did not work.

They said that it would cost $1,100 to replace the DM-TL and filter. It was very likely the right thing to do because they tried to actuate it and it would not spin.

As I have dropped about $14k on my Porsche habit in the last 30 months and my wife has had about enough of this, I paid the diagnostic fee and replace the parts myself (saving about $700).

Now my Durametric is still pulling the same codes plus a new one:
0014 which it says is No signal/communication

That code, like the 0024, is not in my copy of the Porsche 997 essential companion.

So when went to look at live values relevant to the DM-TL the Durametric was putting in some weird results. Percents or bars when the units should have been seconds.

Background: DM-TL is a complicated pump/sensor that determines that there are no leaks in the gas fume recycling system. It pulls low amps if there is a leak, so a high value means there is a problem with the pump or maybe a short.

Edited by Carerra
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44 minutes ago, Carerra said:

2010 Carrera S 6M Cab 150k miles

TLDR: Dealer tells me the code is 2402 and Durametric returns 0024 with a description that matches the dealer.
I am getting screwey values when I look up actual values.
I try to clear codes and they don't seem to clear.
Has anyone else seen this?

I got CEL after about 1000 miles after replacing the catalytic converters myself. I pulled the codes with my Durametric and got:
0024 - DMTL Diagnosis module for tank leakage; pump drive rUpper limit exceeded
0010 - Intake camshaft driver

I took it to Porsche because I wrongly figured this was related to my cats. They pulled the codes and said the car was throwing 2402 and that the 0010 was in the system but had been there for a long time and was not relevant.

Now I had cleared that 0010 about a half dozen times so I thought it was fresh. It did not register at the time, but that means my reset did not work.

They said that it would cost $1,100 to replace the DM-TL and filter. It was very likely the right thing to do because they tried to actuate it and it would not spin.

As I have dropped about $14k on my Porsche habit in the last 30 months and my wife has had about enough of this, I paid the diagnostic fee and replace the parts myself (saving about $700).

Now my Durametric is still pulling the same codes plus a new one:
0014 which it says is No signal/communication

That code, like the 0024, is not in my copy of the Porsche 997 essential companion.

So when went to look at live values relevant to the DM-TL the Durametric was putting in some weird results. Percents or bars when the units should have been seconds.

Background: DM-TL is a complicated pump/sensor that determines that there are no leaks in the gas fume recycling system. It pulls low amps if there is a leak, so a high value means there is a problem with the pump or maybe a short.

 

P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run.  Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.

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Got an email about this and can't offer any mechanical advice but had a similar Durametric issue with the codes not matching Porsches codes. After numerous calls to Durametric, they acknowledged there was a bug in their 997.2 profile that transposed the digits. They were going to work on a fix so check to see if you have the most current rev. I never used it again so don't know firsthand. Good luck!

Edited by 2003996C2
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5 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run.  Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.


I agree with you on this.  My problem is that I have replaced the pump/valve assembly and the filter and I still have the code.  

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6 hours ago, Carerra said:


I agree with you on this.  My problem is that I have replaced the pump/valve assembly and the filter and I still have the code.  

 

Considering the code definition (e.g.: a short), I would also check the unit's wiring. 

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2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Considering the code definition (e.g.: a short), I would also check the unit's wiring. 

 

Great........  If you isolate a short in a wire harness that runs through the firewall to the ECU, what do you even do?  

 

Put tape over the CEL?

 

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2 hours ago, Carerra said:

 

Great........  If you isolate a short in a wire harness that runs through the firewall to the ECU, what do you even do?  

 

Put tape over the CEL?

 

 

You replace it.  This is not rocket science...…..

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2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

You replace it.  This is not rocket science...…..

I am not trying to be thick, but do you fish new versions of just the wires involved through the existing bundle, run duplicate wires, or replace the entire the bundle, which would be basically most the wires to the electronics in the front of the car?

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15 minutes ago, Carerra said:

I am not trying to be thick, but do you fish new versions of just the wires involved through the existing bundle, run duplicate wires, or replace the entire the bundle, which would be basically most the wires to the electronics in the front of the car?

 You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement.  To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness.  You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper.  Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched.  Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.

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1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

 You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement.  To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness.  You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper.  Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched.  Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.

Thanks!!!!

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