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Tony Gibson

2006, 997.1 Carrera 4 Drove through water

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I was caught in a rain storm while driving. Wrong turn and water got deep fast (Charleston SC, Common problem). Managed to keep going. The all wheel drive and Jeep experience helped. Car pushed through and never flooded. However the carpet behind the driver seat got wet. As soon as I exited the water the rear wing started going up and down. After getting home and higher ground the following systems started malfunctioning. It has been several weeks now.

-The reverse lights will not come on therefore back up camera not working.

-Neither the front hood or rear engine lids will open with door sill switches. The key fob will open front trunk. When jumped the switch still won't open front.

Rear wing will not do anything and stuck in up position. At 75 mph fault light comes on.

-Lock center of dash will not lock doors while in car.

-Alarm will not arm.

I'm going to purchase the Durametric (sp) pro this week. I Have checked all fuses and they are good. I'm in the process of a coil over upgrade from stock and have the computer and relay panel accessible in the rear of the car. I have tried leaving battery disconnected for a day. I have pulled number 40 fuse.

None of this has changed anything.

Any input as to what to test and where to start would be appreciated. I know several of the items are on the same circuit.

 

 

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If the carpet behind the drivers seat is wet, then surely the carpet UNDER the drivers seat is wet, and that is where the immobilizer/alarm system is.  If you can, remove the drivers seat (loosen floor bolts and tip it backwards) and get the immoblizer unit out.  Dry it and place it in a canister of dry rice for several days.  Remove the carpeting and  get it dry.  If you can, put a dehumdifier in the car and get it completely dry inside.  Shop vac out moisture from the carpeting.

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Agreed.  Immobilizer likely trashed. Common problem with water under driver seat.  Good luck. 

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Ps:  unless you plan to turn off a few systems, the enthusiasts Durametric may be a better deal. It will for sure turn off your false air bag light. Or, check around, there may be someone around who will let you use their pro. Again, good luck. 

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Thank's Yes I agree the unit under the drivers seat certainly got wet. I'm going to access the unit. Then I've been going through the car and have pulled several connections and using a high quality electronics spray cleaner, dryer, etc. Then apply a touch of dielectric grease on plugs etc. not sensitive electronics though  on to help protect and slow corrosion.

What test or how do you determine if the unit under the seat is trashed?

Is there a way to check resistance, voltage, etc with a multi-meter to determine if the controller is fried. Or is there a specific test that the dealership would perform to determine if the unit requires replacement. And no not like throwing it in a bucket of water and if it sinks you need a new one.

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14 minutes ago, Tony Gibson said:

Thank's Yes I agree the unit under the drivers seat certainly got wet. I'm going to access the unit. Then I've been going through the car and have pulled several connections and using a high quality electronics spray cleaner, dryer, etc. Then apply a touch of dielectric grease on plugs etc. not sensitive electronics though  on to help protect and slow corrosion.

What test or how do you determine if the unit under the seat is trashed?

Is there a way to check resistance, voltage, etc with a multi-meter to determine if the controller is fried. Or is there a specific test that the dealership would perform to determine if the unit requires replacement. And no not like throwing it in a bucket of water and if it sinks you need a new one.

 

You do as he said above, pull it, dry it out (we rinse them with isopropyl alcohol and then bow them dry with dry compressed air).  Be sure to check the small fuse on the side of the unit as they often blow when it gets wet, then reinstall it.  It is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn't.  You would need a PIWIS system to test it, and a dealer will happily sell you a new one, with programming, for around $700+.  Normally, once dried out, they come back to life just fine.

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ECU Doctors can help if the immobilizer needs waking up.  For in the future, they have a waterproof box for the immobilizer.  Since the immobilizer sits in a well under the seat, it is most prone to getting wet.  If the seat is not responding to fore and aft movements to loosen the floor bolts, let me know.  There is another  way to get under the drivers seat. 

WWW.ECUDOCTORS.COM

Porsche, BMW, Ferrari - We'll make any used ECU work - Send us your damaged ECU and we'll TEST and REPAIR your unit and send it back to you with our 5 YEAR WARRANTY.

 

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Well I pulled the unit out from under the seat. Moister did get to it its toast. i don't see how the car even ran with this thing. Just in case I cleaned it with electronic spray cleaner. Then inspected it under a Jeweler's microscope. Melted components. I beiliva dis un no goood no mo. Where can I get one. I've been told dealer only because of the security issue. I checked the rear controller since I have the rear torn apart for coilover installation. Its fine as far as appearance. I'm surprised the fried board didn't cause something else to short out. Maybe this is the extent of the jeep riding adventure. I'm going to look around but I still have to get the dealer to program with the key I assume.

friedboard.jpg

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2 hours ago, Tony Gibson said:

Well I pulled the unit out from under the seat. Moister did get to it its toast. i don't see how the car even ran with this thing. Just in case I cleaned it with electronic spray cleaner. Then inspected it under a Jeweler's microscope. Melted components. I beiliva dis un no goood no mo. Where can I get one. I've been told dealer only because of the security issue. I checked the rear controller since I have the rear torn apart for coilover installation. Its fine as far as appearance. I'm surprised the fried board didn't cause something else to short out. Maybe this is the extent of the jeep riding adventure. I'm going to look around but I still have to get the dealer to program with the key I assume.

friedboard.jpg

 

That is pretty bad.  You are going to need a new one, and as the dealer is needed to program it to accept your keys, you may as well just give them the entire job.

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Posted (edited)

What year and make is your car? There is a guy over on Rennlist selling a bunch of parts from a 2003 C2.  He might have an immobilizer.

RENNLIST.COM

996 Forum - F/S 03 c2 996 parts - Parts came off a 2003 c2 manual transmission 85k miles ECU $200 Cluster $200 Both drive axles $200 Both Radiators , Condensers With fans $375 complete wire harness $500 Abs...

 

Edited by DBJoe996

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Bought new rear control module. Plugged it up and all is well except wing is still in up position. There is no light on the button for manual control and it does nothing. The warning DOES NOT come on at 75. One mechanic that I know said it probably has to be coded in as on. It was working perfect before getting wet. When I received the new unit I grounded myself and opened the plastic housing for the board. Without touching the board I used silicone sealant and a small paint brush and ran a bead of caulk around the seam where the two  two halves mate together. In addition I placed the box in a zip lock bag and back in the plastic housing then under the seat. Bought several bags of dry wick or something for damp areas of your home from home depot

Now how do I test the wing or program the module to tell it that there is an operable wing. and turn it on. I assume that the company that sold it would help. I.m getting ready to contact them

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3 hours ago, Tony Gibson said:

Bought new rear control module. Plugged it up and all is well except wing is still in up position. There is no light on the button for manual control and it does nothing. The warning DOES NOT come on at 75. One mechanic that I know said it probably has to be coded in as on. It was working perfect before getting wet. When I received the new unit I grounded myself and opened the plastic housing for the board. Without touching the board I used silicone sealant and a small paint brush and ran a bead of caulk around the seam where the two  two halves mate together. In addition I placed the box in a zip lock bag and back in the plastic housing then under the seat. Bought several bags of dry wick or something for damp areas of your home from home depot

Now how do I test the wing or program the module to tell it that there is an operable wing. and turn it on. I assume that the company that sold it would help. I.m getting ready to contact them

 

You don't, you need a PIWIS system to code the module to the car.  A lot of the control modules in these cars need to be told exactly what they are dealing with before they are happy again; they are not simple "plug and play" devices due to the number of possible configurations the car could be carrying.  They are definitely "some assembly required" systems.........

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