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No start after engine swap


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The situation: Bought this 2002 S with a bad engine. Replaced it, now getting the P0336 for bad crank sensor. Per past posts here, have checked out the sensor from the new engine and the old one and both are fine at about 880 ohms between pins 1 and 2 and infinity to pin 3. 

My question: is there something simple I should examine before hauling it somewhere to get the wiring tests done? Yes, I've checked fuses and relays but as you know, the DME won't allow the fuel pump to run without a crank sensor reading.

Thanks.

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1 hour ago, JE 17 said:

The situation: Bought this 2002 S with a bad engine. Replaced it, now getting the P0336 for bad crank sensor. Per past posts here, have checked out the sensor from the new engine and the old one and both are fine at about 880 ohms between pins 1 and 2 and infinity to pin 3. 

My question: is there something simple I should examine before hauling it somewhere to get the wiring tests done? Yes, I've checked fuses and relays but as you know, the DME won't allow the fuel pump to run without a crank sensor reading.

Thanks.

Your next step would be to see if the DME is actually seeing any signal from the CPS, which requires a PST II, PIWIS, or similar oscilloscope diagnostic tool.  You could also check the wiring harness for continuity to the DME; pin 1 on the sensor should lead to terminal 78 on the DME, pin 2 to terminal 20, and pin 3 to terminal 28.  If any of those circuits shows a lack of continuity, you have a wiring issue.

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5 minutes ago, JE 17 said:

Thank you, I fear a trailer drive is in my future. I'll check for continuity.

 

Good luck, these types of issues are diagnostic time consuming; with luck you have a wiring or connector issue.

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  • 4 months later...

A little update.

Just got back to this project after needing to get some daily drivers renovated.

As I surmised, I had managed to swap the cam and crank position sensors. So now I can crank it, and it pops a little, but won't start. 

Moving on with the Durametric to see if I can find a gremlin.

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Did get to run just a little but very roughly. Now moving on to check fuel pump.

Getting only a P0650 or 165 code.

 

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P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Open Circuit

P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Below Limit

P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Above Limit

Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for continuity.

1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector X 2/3.

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and to X 2/3 on pin side, pin 11.

Display: 0 - 5 ohms

If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

4. Remove connector III of instrument cluster.

5. Connect ohmmeter to X 2/3, sleeve side, and to connector III of instrument cluster, pin 2.

Display: 0 - 5 ohms

If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to ground.

1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster.

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground.

Display: infinite ohms

If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to B+.

1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster.

3. Switch on the ignition.

4. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground.

Display: 0 V

If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

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I got the full 850cc fuel volume as specified. So now I'm left with this electronic problem which appears to require a factory tool. Am I correct?

 

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14 hours ago, JE 17 said:

I got the full 850cc fuel volume as specified. So now I'm left with this electronic problem which appears to require a factory tool. Am I correct?

 

 

A "global" OBD II scanner (read on OEM tool) should be able to see a lot of things, but when you get down to the more difficult diagnostics, a Porsche specific tool like the Durametric system, PST II, or PIWIS can see thing that the global tool cannot, and most global tools are incapable of doing system actuations for test purposes.

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1 minute ago, JE 17 said:

So it doesn't appear my Durametric will be of much help. Great.

 

 

You Durametric system is as close as you are going to get to something like the PIWIS without spending $20,000 to lease a factory tool.  The Durametric is very capable, I use one my self for most things.  But on thing you need to remember: Diagnostic tools only give you a sense of direction, not a set of directions; so any of them, including the almighty PIWIS, are only as good as the intuition of the operator.  Diagnostic's are slow and often arduous, often leading down several dead ends before your find the actual problem by a process of elimination.

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I understand that. 

The diagnostic appears to require a special tool (9637) which I can't seem to find anywhere, and I'm not sure it would be cost-effective if I did. I'm not good at all with electronics and accept that. I see I'll need to consult a professional on this unless I get lucky and trip over the cause. In that case, I'm sure I'll win the Cayman GT4 in club drawing too!

 

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12 minutes ago, JE 17 said:

I understand that. 

The diagnostic appears to require a special tool (9637) which I can't seem to find anywhere, and I'm not sure it would be cost-effective if I did. I'm not good at all with electronics and accept that. I see I'll need to consult a professional on this unless I get lucky and trip over the cause. In that case, I'm sure I'll win the Cayman GT4 in club drawing too!

 

 

The magic "pin out box", made by special order by the elf's of the Black Forest, with a $2,000+ price tag.  What it does is to allow you to connect a multimeter to circuits that are already completely connected and test for voltage and/or continuity.  In reality, you can do the same thing with thin wire back pin probes that slip into the rear of the car's connectors and get the same readings:

 

spacer.png 

 

spacer.png

No where as elegant as the factory pinout box, but they are one Hell of a lot cheaper and get the job done.

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20 minutes ago, JE 17 said:

Forgot to mention: Durametric shows no bank 2 cam activation when it runs. 

And thanks for your wisdom!

 

Could be a sign that the DME has a RoW tune in it rather than the North American code.

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"As I surmised, I had managed to swap the cam and crank position sensors."

 

It happens to the best!

 

Several years back had the same issue, but male and female connectors are color coded (grey for crank and black for cams IIRC), so will pay better attention from the get-go next time..

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