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If you have access to a workshop press, the job is relatively easy. Yes, its a press-fit bearing. Here's how:

(Car on wheels) Remove centre cap from wheel, slacken hub nut.

Remove wheel.

Remove caliper, disc, shoes and all other brake hardware.

Remove drive-shaft by removing hub nut and pressing drive-shaft through with universal (5 bolt) hub press.

Split all ball joints, remove wheel bearing housing complete.

Press hub out of wheel bearing/housing.

Press/pull inner race from hub

Remove 4 bolts from retainer plate cover, remove cover

Remove brake disc cover (3 bolts)

Heat bearing housing to 100°C, press outer race from housing.

Install:

Clean bore of wheel bearing housing

Heat housing to 100°C

Insert new bearing, press very gently on OUTER RACE into position.

Install brake disc cover plate, 10Nm.

Orientate retainer plate with water drain downwards, fit plate, 37Nm.

Press in the wheel hub, this time with suitable tube to support the INNER RACE.

Refit to vehicle, as a reversal of removal.

Have a rear wheel alighnment carried out.

Edited by 0586slb
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I thought there was a way to press the bearing out of the hub without taking everything apart (thus avoiding the need for a realignment), no?

There is a way to replace the wheel bearing with the wheel housing still mounted to the car...you will need to purchase a OTC Hubtamer tool set (or similar). With this set you can pull out the hub and press the new bearing in. I have this set and it works great.

Edited by REDLINE WINS
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I thought there was a way to press the bearing out of the hub without taking everything apart (thus avoiding the need for a realignment), no?

There is a way to replace the wheel bearing with the wheel housing still mounted to the car...you will need to purchase a OTC Hubtamer tool set (or similar). With this set you can pull out the hub and press the new bearing in. I have this set and it works great.

Do you have the hubtamer or the hubtamer elite? Do you know what the difference is? Have you actually used in on a boxster/996?

thanks for the info.

ed

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Thanks for the info. What type of Hubtamer do you suggest. The prices of these things are all over the place. $250 to $500. Is there a specific model that will do the trick on the rear wheel bearings for a 97 boxster?

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I do not believe that any of the available tools will work without taking the wheel carrier off of the car, at least on the front. On the front the strut body is behind the axle so you cannot remove the axle. Since you cannot remove the axle you do not have access to the back of the hub so you cannot get a tool in there to press out the hub.

You can probably do the rear as the drive shaft can be pulled out without removing the strut.

Another tool is the Sir Tools one. It is about $250 for the porsche specific one.

Taking the wheel carriers off will not effect the alignment. The only time the alignment might be effected is if you have to undo the top of the front strut in order to get the wheel carrier out. As long as you mark the position of the nuts that hold the top of the strut in place before you loosen them, you will be able to put it back in the same place as when you started.

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thanks for the info. I will look into the tool you described. Have you ever done this work or seen it done. I am not familiar with this tool or the procedures to replace the bearing. It seems from the posts I have been reading that bearings are a chronic problem, so getting the right tools and learning the procedure appears to have huge money saving potential.

Any more information will be greatly appreciated.

Zok

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I have done a front but not a rear. You need certain tools:

32mm socket to remove axle nut

10mm hex bit for the caliper bolts

ball joint tool

hub extractor or hydraulic press

Bearing extractor

18mm socket or crowfoot

Torque wrench good to 348 ft-lbs

Propane torch

Plus your usual wrenches, etc.

Also removing the rear wheel carrier is more difficult than the front. The times that I have done it (strut replacement) you need to disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission (6mm or 8mm hex bit). Also in order to lift the wheel carrier off of the control arm ball joint you have to really depress the control arm in order to get sufficient room to lift it off of the ball joint. If you have a stock suspension you may have to use a spring compressor on the strut to keep it from extending the strut.

The instructions above are correct. The only thing I am not sure about is heating the hub to remove the inner race. I think you would want to heat the race as the hub is inside the race. Also removing the race is a PITA if you do not have the right size puller.

Also a rear alignment is probably not 100% needed as you do not touch any of the alignment adjusters. Would not hurt though.

The Sir Tools part numbers are B 90-P2, B 90-3 and B 90-3J.

The newer rev bearings (999 053 041 03 boxster part number not "S") seem to be better than the originals. I have not had any problems since I replaced mine.

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The instructions above are correct.  The only thing I am not sure about is heating the hub to remove the inner race.  I think you would want to heat the race as the hub is inside the race.

You're correct... :oops:

I got carried away and put in one too many 'Heat to 100°C' - I've edited the guide above. :)

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