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2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi. I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled. I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission:
I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven. Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual.
Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve. The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before. I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification). The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves.
I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful. I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing.
Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections?
Many thanks for your input!
By Alan Huey
I recently had to replace the water pump on my 2001 Boxster. This all went fine, however, the red light to the right of the temperature gauge is blinking at 1 Hz. I've read this indicates low coolant level. I followed the factory procedure to bleed the system and it is filled to the max, but the light still blinks. Also, the gauge is flatlined to the left. I replaced the temperature sensor near the #4 cylinder head without improvement, and the wires "look" ok. All the fuses are good. Does anyone know the procedure to troubleshoot this wiring? Or the pin and socket numbers for the wiring diagram? The temperature gauge worked fine before the water pump blew up. I did recover most of the impeller, but a few small pieces are in there.
So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status"
A little background about my car.
2006 Boxster S 3.2L
FVD Exhaust system
GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached.
996 throttle body and distribution hose
ECU Tuning Group tune
I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune.
I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete (ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors.
I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not
sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine.
For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors.
I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd.
Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas.
I am having trouble getting my 2001 Boxster S ready for a smog check in California. The rules have recently changed. Year 2000 and up vehicles are no longer driven on rollers with a sniffer in the tailpipe. The check is solely through interrogation of the EMU via the OBD II port. Also, whereas in the past one test readiness monitor could be not reset and the vehicle be tested and if clean, pass the emissions test, now only the evap readiness can be incomplete - no other. Although my vehicle has never thrown an SAI related code, nor pending code, the Secondary Air monitor will not set to ready. A little history. I initially had an illuminated CEL, the codes showing were P1128 and P1130. I discovered the vacuum hose feeding the SAI valve was pulled out from the port on the right rear intake rubber connector. (Wonder why this did not trigger an SAI code, since the vacuum needed to open the valve was not present). Upon connecting the hose and clearing the codes (I have Lemur Blue Driver), neither the codes nor pending codes have reappeared after several hundred miles of driving. All of the monitors showed ready soon after restart and a small amount of driving except the catalyst, evap and SAI. After driving the prescribed setting cycle (cold idle, 20-30 mph, 40-60 mph, hot idle in gear) the evap and catalyst monitors showed ready. However, now even after a dozen or more 2 minute, 10 second cold start idles, the SAI test still shows incomplete. Does anyone know what the DME is looking for to set SAI ready? One post I found said 125 Mv or less from the pre-cat 02 sensors after 10 seconds of idle with the air pump on. True? BTW, my air pump is operating on cold start and runs for about one minute and 40 seconds. My cold idle is smooth and about 1k rpm in neutral, 800-900 in drive (tiptronic). Should the initial 2 minute, 10 second cold star idle be done in neutral or drive? (I’ve done both) Any suggestions? I’ve talked to the California Air Resources Board, and it appears the referee path is no longer an option.