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To repair or parts car, that is the question


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Hi folks,

 

I bought a 2002 996 cabriolet that i'm trying to put back together (at the very least get it functional) for a possible auto cross/track car or use for parts on another car or similar.

 

The history on the car:

imported into Canada from Florida in 2007

Car has a irreparable tile in Ontario and was branded with a certificate of destruction back in 2006/ 2007 in Florida

the car interior was completely striped including HVAC by prior owner because it needed a new front harness.  For some reason it was received with a cut out fuse panel

Car has a partially installed replacement harness

Engine was removed (unknown condition) and transmission is still in the car

Car only has 29,000 ish mile - mileage confirmed when i got the instrument cluster working

Overall the car is in great shape and looks the part of a 30k mile car, would be a shame to part this car out

 

So here's where I'm at after a few weekends and some evenings of fun time & discoveries:

Car is relatively complete, a few missing items (nothing major), prior owner still finding parts

Completed the fuse block and harness installation, no burnt fuses or missing relays

HVAC, dash, climate control and radio now works with help from Loren retrieving the radio code

Rear lights function (brake, parking, signal etc...)

All 4 windows go up and down

Door lock did work before the immobilizer issue 

Car came with the spoiler up and convertible top stowed with a hard top

Hard top is set aside, convertible top on manual and pulled out for inspection, spoiler now works 

 

Issues I'm currently working on:

Front headlights don't work - module is missing so cant really test/ confirm

Front & rear trunks/hood aren't working - when I click the drivers side buttons, i do have 12 volts at the front connector using a test light but not the back

Radio turns on but no sound, only the 4 base speaker system on this car (no speakers in door cards), i don't have the original amp (i assume all 996's came with one) and it must be installed for sound, pink twisted wires/connectors in the frunk

Drivers side roll over protection bar is releasing, currently have the connector to he sensor disconnected

I wasn't getting any issues withe the Immobilizer at first then all of a sudden it started blowing fuses and clicks continuously like a relay

Convertible top doesn't work but i expected that since i discovered the electric latch on the roof is missing and finding no power to the roof electrical connector behind drivers side, i assume this is because of the immobilizer issue

 

 

First things I would like to clear up is getting tunes thought the speakers, fix the faulty ejecting roll protection bar and sort out the clicking immobilizer

 

any ideas?

 

I know its a winded post but it gives you a clear idea of what i'm working with

 

 

 

 

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I have a question: Why?

 

I have spent a good portion of my life working on these cars, nothing is ever simple or remotely inexpensive.  I have seen the photos you have posted on other sites, and really wonder why you are taking on something of this magnitude? 

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I looked over the car again today

 

Blowing fuses on the M535 was due to a faulty alarm horn/ siren.  I’m leaving it unplugged

 

The clicking I referred to in my original post, I now understand that it’s the actual alarm going off.  As soon as I connect the battery it goes off.  I tried many things I read on other posts and nothing shuts it up.  It does stop after a few cycles but will start up again if I turn the ignition off and back on again.  The only items not connected at this point is the CD changer, amp, actual engine and 02 sensors.  Does anybody know if missing any of these items would cause the alarm to go off right away like it is?

 

Central locking does work but trunk & hood latches are not getting power to the connectors.

 

Also the only key I have is a new one that was cut correctly but the fob is not programmed, could this be the reason for the alarm going off?

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JFP

 

I forgot to answer your question.  For me this car was purchased for parts only, but the more I look at it there is no reason why I can’t make it a runner. 

 

It’s 99% complete with low miles.  The pics were taken when I got the car home and it was in a sorry state.  It looks completely different

today.  Carpets are ready to go back in but I want to sort out the last of the gremlins first

 

I can post my progress if anyone is interested.  I’m just hopping to get a little insight from those who have already gone down this road with their 996

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14 hours ago, JFL2021 said:

JFP

 

I forgot to answer your question.  For me this car was purchased for parts only, but the more I look at it there is no reason why I can’t make it a runner. 

 

It’s 99% complete with low miles.  The pics were taken when I got the car home and it was in a sorry state.  It looks completely different

today.  Carpets are ready to go back in but I want to sort out the last of the gremlins first

 

I can post my progress if anyone is interested.  I’m just hopping to get a little insight from those who have already gone down this road with their 996

I think your efforts would be highly educational for many forum members, if only to address a specific issue they might be working on.  You also have my, and I am sure others, admiration for tackling a herculean project.

 

Your alarm problem could be related to the vehicle's sound system, some of the component's were connected to the alarm system to prevent them from being stolen.  One way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system.  These scan tool can read the last ten alarm faults stored in the DME, and could point you to exactly what is triggering the system.

 

Good luck! 👍

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  • 2 months later...

It’s worth repairing to make it a driver provided you understand any money you sink into it you won’t ever get back and may cost more than getting a running example.

 

On a separate note, your car sounds like a good donor for a super lite project.

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Update on the car.

 

Sent the ECU & immobilizer to "specialized in Florida".  Key i got with the car wasn't programmable because it was missing the code tag.  Got a new key and re-programmed the ecu/immo, the car is now fully functional (power locks, silenced alarm and hood/trunk actuators).  

 

The interior is completely reinstalled and I even got the engine under the car, connected the harness & ground cable and bump tested the starter.  The oil level was also being read on the cluster.

 

I split the cases on the trans to inspect, all looks good.  Next to is get my hands on a used pressure plate and get the engine back in to see if it will go vroom...  Car only came with the flywheel on engine and the clutch disk loose in a box.

 

This is one of my many projects, so its been out of the garage for about a month.  Received a couple of packages last week from ebay purchases - HID head light module, Bose amp and a bag of loose hardware/bolts.  Next is to test the radio & headlights.

 

Its looking more positive then negative, which is a good thing.

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