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boxster_nut

How to manually lowering convertible top

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Thanks guys post was a big help but I broke the rod cap ( red) now I need to buy a new set of the beefier ones... any suggestions?

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Thanks guys post was a big help but I broke the rod cap ( red) now I need to buy a new set of the beefier ones... any suggestions?

onejstchillin:

You can buy the complete pushrod assembly from Porsche (Porsche does not sell just the plastic ball cups) or you can buy a set of new, improved plastic ball cups from a guy who has had them manufactured overseas.

Send me a PM and I will send you the info.

Regards, Maurice.

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This is wonderful information. However, I must be the outlier in terms of understanding. I too have a top stuck in the closed postion (top up). As mentioned, this really hampers any attempt at gaining access to the top mechanism for repairs or visibility of the mechanism itself. You can't see anything to diagnose the problem. I must be heavily reliant on vision as groping the components in the dark has proven to be a useless exercise for me. I can't even tell what I am groping much less discern what components I am feeling and what to do with them.

I am hoping to tap into someone who has direct experience in doing this and can provide insight into this process.

I have managed to release the vinyl curtain and peel it back to expose the inner workings of the top mechanism. I found and released the rearmost balljoint that attaches the softtop.

I believe the only ball joint needing to be released is the one attaching the clamshell. I understand this to be black, on the outboard side of the clamshell and positioned approximately six to eight inches from the edge of the quarter panel where it meets the rearmost section of the door. Is this correct? If so my second question is this: Am I trying to separate the balljoint from the linkage or from the clamshell? I can't feel or see the physical connections to accurately determine what is connected to what. Lastly, do I apply force laterally outward to separate the joint connection? None of the postings searched provide the minutiae that I evidently need to make this repair.

I have a 1997, 2.5l, us spec 986 with manual 5sp.

I thank you in advance for your help.

Gene

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....

I believe the only ball joint needing to be released is the one attaching the clamshell. I understand this to be black, on the outboard side of the clamshell and positioned approximately six to eight inches from the edge of the quarter panel where it meets the rearmost section of the door. Is this correct?

Yes, that is correct.

If so my second question is this: Am I trying to separate the balljoint from the linkage or from the clamshell?

You can separate it from the linkage (i.e., where it meets the V-lever) or from the clamshell. If you want to separate it from the clamshell, you will have to push off the little circlip that locks the other end of the black pushrod onto the arm of the clamshell.

Either one is possible, but difficult. The difficulty in separating it at the V-lever lies in being able to apply enough pressure to pull the two apart. This is because the black "hydraulic" pushrod is under a great deal of pressure when the clamshell is in the closed (flush with the body) position.

I can't feel or see the physical connections to accurately determine what is connected to what. Lastly, do I apply force laterally outward to separate the joint connection?

If you are trying to separate the black pushrod from the V-lever, you must apply force laterally to pry the steel ball out of the pushrod's cup end.

If you are having too much difficulty with pulling the black pushrods off the V-lever or the plastic ball cup off the steel ball at the base of the B-pillar, there is another method which is usually much easier.

It involves pulling the cables (left and right) out of the sides of the electric motor and spinning the transmissions with a cordless drill to move the top in increments until you can access everything. I wrote this up recently for another member and he was able to do it with no problem. If I find the post, I'll post the link here.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

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My car is a 2000 boxster s. When raising the top I heard a snapping sound from the driver's side and stopped raising the top mid cycle and could see pieces of the red part that is mentioned in the thread. I completed the cycle to raise the top with no problem but I have the Brey Krause roll bar extension and have to help the top over it in both directions. I have put it down and up again without issues but it seemed to be slower on the driver side but only slightly out of sinc . It seems I need to replace that red part. Can that be done with the top up ? I don't yet have any of the other issues as everything works.

thanks

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My car is a 2000 boxster s. When raising the top I heard a snapping sound from the driver's side and stopped raising the top mid cycle and could see pieces of the red part that is mentioned in the thread. I completed the cycle to raise the top with no problem but I have the Brey Krause roll bar extension and have to help the top over it in both directions. I have put it down and up again without issues but it seemed to be slower on the driver side but only slightly out of sinc . It seems I need to replace that red part. Can that be done with the top up ? I don't yet have any of the other issues as everything works.

thanks

Turtle:

You can replace the red plastic ball cup with the top almost completely up. It's easier to reach under there is the top is just a little partially retracted.

Operating the top with only one transmission driving the top through one ball cup will usually result in exploding the remaining ball cup because of the extra stress put on that side. The side without the functioning ball cup will also usually lag a little behind the side that is being driven by the intact ball cup.

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanls to all for such detailed descriptions of this procedure. This weekend I had the joy of dealing with my base 98's top stuck in the up (closed position). A couple of observations and questions...

After eyeballing the cramped areas around the red ball joint, and concerned about damaging the water barrier around the black ball joint, I opted for removing the clip that holds the clam shell to the push rod. That process went pretty easily, but I damaged one and it will be replaced. I would suggest everyone look closely at posted pictures of that clip, note the construction which should help on removal. (10 min total after removing the vinyl skirt)

Top motor operation - each cable just shook for an instant when subjected to torque, but no top movement. One note, the motor appears to have an automatic cut off if it repeatedly runs into too much resistance. Toggling the top switch back and forth a few times made the motor stop "trying". Then there is an audible click after 5 seconds or so, then the motor will resume function. Some sort of built in 'motor saver' I assume.

U clips and cables were removed from the motor... the posted "screw gun tip" produced no movement in the top on either side.

With the clip removed, the clam shell was easily opened to expose the transmission. Also, by going after the clam shell first it makes removal of the red (or white) ball joint very simple when you use the porsche supplied lever tool. Just look forward from the transmission when positioned over the quarter panel. (5 min) This appears infanitely easier than going after the joint from inside the cabin with the top closed. In that case I had no room for an eyeball... and a tool... and a hand.

My reds did not break, but will replace with whites as long as I'm in here. The transmission would not turn so removal of the the red ball arms were neccessary via an allen wrench and cheater bar. (5min)

Questions;

1 - who is the supplier for the NAI white ball joints?

2 - where are the pics/thread for the inside of the transmissions? I know I've seen some on the board, but my searches are going nowhere.

3 - the transmission cover is just held on by the big 20mm bolt, correct?

4 - besides marking the postion of the transmission arms, anything to be concerned about before I prodeed?

Thanks in advance. You guys are saving us $$$... and it's appreaciated!

Steve

Edited by openwater

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Thanls to all for such detailed descriptions of this procedure. This weekend I had the joy of dealing with my base 98's top stuck in the up (closed position). A couple of observations and questions...

After eyeballing the cramped areas around the red ball joint, and concerned about damaging the water barrier around the black ball joint, I opted for removing the clip that holds the clam shell to the push rod. That process went pretty easily, but I damaged one and it will be replaced. I would suggest everyone look closely at posted pictures of that clip, note the construction which should help on removal. (10 min total after removing the vinyl skirt)

Top motor operation - each cable just shook for an instant when subjected to torque, but no top movement. One note, the motor appears to have an automatic cut off if it repeatedly runs into too much resistance. Toggling the top switch back and forth a few times made the motor stop "trying". Then there is an audible click after 5 seconds or so, then the motor will resume function. Some sort of built in 'motor saver' I assume.

U clips and cables were removed from the motor... the posted "screw gun tip" produced no movement in the top on either side.

With the clip removed, the clam shell was easily opened to expose the transmission. Also, by going after the clam shell first it makes removal of the red (or white) ball joint very simple when you use the porsche supplied lever tool. Just look forward from the transmission when positioned over the quarter panel. (5 min) This appears infanitely easier than going after the joint from inside the cabin with the top closed. In that case I had no room for an eyeball... and a tool... and a hand.

My reds did not break, but will replace with whites as long as I'm in here. The transmission would not turn so removal of the the red ball arms were neccessary via an allen wrench and cheater bar. (5min)

Questions;

1 - who is the supplier for the NAI white ball joints?

2 - where are the pics/thread for the inside of the transmissions? I know I've seen some on the board, but my searches are going nowhere.

3 - the transmission cover is just held on by the big 20mm bolt, correct?

4 - besides marking the postion of the transmission arms, anything to be concerned about before I prodeed?

Thanks in advance. You guys are saving us $$$... and it's appreaciated!

Steve

Steve:

1. The white ball joints (sometimes also produced in black) are not available from Porsche by themselves. Porsche obligates you to buy the entire pushrod assembly. There is a guy in the Netherlans who has had them produced. Send me a PM and I will give you his info.

2. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=15249&hl

Go to posts # 14, 19 and 20 for some pics of the transmissions, closed and opened up.

3. The V-lever is fastened to the transmission's center with a 19mm bolt (not 20mm). The transmission is held onto the inside of the quarter panel with three studs (13mm?), and the transmission cover itself (actually two small plastic covers) is held on with 7 small Phillips head screws and one small nut.

4. Be very careful not to re-install the V-levers upside down (i.e., 180 degrees off). Take a photo of the V-levers on the transmissions before removing them.

If you did not get any movement by spinning the cables with the cordless drill method, either your cables are broken or frayed, or the worm gear where the transmission end of the cable terminates is broken or has its housing cracked. You'll soon find out what the problem is when you open up the case for the transmission(s). When you get to the small plastic cover that covers the worm gear, let me know if there is a BMW emblem stamped on that part (curious).

Regards, Maurice.

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Hi,

My problem looks the same as the ones in first page(those pictures where clam is not straight).

Thing is that those v-levers are out of sync and the roof gets stuck from right side, both sides are moving up & down. Any ideas how do I sync them?

Thanks,

nsn

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Hi,

My problem looks the same as the ones in first page(those pictures where clam is not straight).

Thing is that those v-levers are out of sync and the roof gets stuck from right side, both sides are moving up & down. Any ideas how do I sync them?

Thanks,

nsn

nsn:

You can operate each transmission "manually" by hooking up each drive cable to a cordless drill set on it LOWEST torque setting.

Take a look at the procedure for installing an 03/04 OEM glass windowed top on an earlier Boxster on Mike Focke's Boxster Pages, here: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/thetop-i...e%26replacement

There is a section that has photos showing you where the measurements should be taken as a starting point.

Regards, Maurice.

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On 2/12/2008 at 11:34 AM, 1schoir said:

GTO:

From these first three photos, it looks like your left (driver's) side convertible top inner transmission cable is either broken, frayed, or that it has "retracted" inside its outer sheath so that it is no longer driven by the electric motor. (Note: it's not the inner metal cable that retracts, it's actually the outer black plastic sheath that stretches, but it produces the same effect).

If the inner cable (speedometer type cable) does not stick out at least 3/4 of an inch outside of the end of outer black plastic sheath, it will not be driven by the motor. Since it looks like you still have some access to the motor, you can reach around and pull the metal "u-clip" up from the left (driver's) side of the motor and pull the black cable out. Then try to turn the inner metal cable by hand. If you are able to turn it by hand, it is probably broken or frayed somewhere inside the black outer sheath. Then try to pull the inner metal cable out by hand. Again, if you are able to pull it out, you will find that it has broken somewhere inside the outer sheath.

If you cannot move it by hand, or pull it out by hand, hook up the end of it to your drill and you should be able to then rotate the V-lever by turning on your drill in the right direction. Spin the cable with the drill until the left side of the clamshell matches the right side and you can then go gradually back and forth from the left side to the right side until you get the clamshell in the maximum (45 degrees) up and back position. If you do too much on one side, you may end up twisting or tweaking the clamshell and thus putting a crease in it.

If you do a search in the Convertible top DIY section here, you will see posts by Tool Pants that describe the 3/4" problem.

Try the above so that you can have good access to all of the parts that you will need to inspect and/or replace and post your results here, then we can try to tackle the repair.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi 03 Boxster clam shell on the right side to Rt Quarter panel not flushed the claim shell at front is roughly 1/4 down to Quarter panel, the left side is half that. How do I adjust the clam shell (raise rt side front so it is even with the quarter panel)? Here are some photos. 

Thanks in advance....

P1630136.JPG

P1630137.JPG

P1630138.JPG

P1630139.JPG

P1630140.JPG

P1630141.JPG

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On 2/12/2008 at 11:34 AM, 1schoir said:

GTO:

From these first three photos, it looks like your left (driver's) side convertible top inner transmission cable is either broken, frayed, or that it has "retracted" inside its outer sheath so that it is no longer driven by the electric motor. (Note: it's not the inner metal cable that retracts, it's actually the outer black plastic sheath that stretches, but it produces the same effect).

If the inner cable (speedometer type cable) does not stick out at least 3/4 of an inch outside of the end of outer black plastic sheath, it will not be driven by the motor. Since it looks like you still have some access to the motor, you can reach around and pull the metal "u-clip" up from the left (driver's) side of the motor and pull the black cable out. Then try to turn the inner metal cable by hand. If you are able to turn it by hand, it is probably broken or frayed somewhere inside the black outer sheath. Then try to pull the inner metal cable out by hand. Again, if you are able to pull it out, you will find that it has broken somewhere inside the outer sheath.

If you cannot move it by hand, or pull it out by hand, hook up the end of it to your drill and you should be able to then rotate the V-lever by turning on your drill in the right direction. Spin the cable with the drill until the left side of the clamshell matches the right side and you can then go gradually back and forth from the left side to the right side until you get the clamshell in the maximum (45 degrees) up and back position. If you do too much on one side, you may end up twisting or tweaking the clamshell and thus putting a crease in it.

If you do a search in the Convertible top DIY section here, you will see posts by Tool Pants that describe the 3/4" problem.

Try the above so that you can have good access to all of the parts that you will need to inspect and/or replace and post your results here, then we can try to tackle the repair.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi I have 03 Boxster clam shell on the right side to Rt Quarter panel not flushed the claim shell at front is roughly 1/4 down to Quarter panel, the left side is half that. How do I adjust the clam shell (raise rt side front so it is even height with the quarter panel)? Here are some photos. 

Thanks in advance....

P1630136.JPG

P1630137.JPG

P1630138.JPG

P1630139.JPG

P1630140.JPG

P1630141.JPG

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There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell.  It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm.  If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.).  

 

If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there.  Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
further explanation
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On 09/22/2017 at 5:59 PM, 1schoir said:

There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell.  It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm.  If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.).  

 

If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there.  Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Can possibly post a picture what it looks like would greatly appreciated.

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Here is what the two-part plastic part looks like...

 

59c8662873a09_6AFrontAdjust.thumb.JPG.1a602bfaa273c10c1be4b15c667d79c7.JPG

As you can clearly see from the markings, the further to the left (i.e., towards the front) that you slide the part on top, the thicker the overall assembly will be and thus the higher up the front prong of the clamshell will sit.

 

And here is where the driver's side adjuster sits in the clamshell rain channel:

59c86681dd99d_6FrontAdjust.thumb.jpg.b749f982c6938ab2f6ab624038bd20b8.jpg

 

Regards, Maurice.

 

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On 9/24/2017 at 9:18 PM, 1schoir said:

Here is what the two-part plastic part looks like...

 

59c8662873a09_6AFrontAdjust.thumb.JPG.1a602bfaa273c10c1be4b15c667d79c7.JPG

As you can clearly see from the markings, the further to the left (i.e., towards the front) that you slide the part on top, the thicker the overall assembly will be and thus the higher up the front prong of the clamshell will sit.

 

And here is where the driver's side adjuster sits in the clamshell rain channel:

59c86681dd99d_6FrontAdjust.thumb.jpg.b749f982c6938ab2f6ab624038bd20b8.jpg

 

Regards, Maurice.

 

Thank you Maurice for the photos of the adjuster, I couldn't of done it w/o your help. Clam shell height is adjust. Since you have a good knowledge of the convertible top I like to see if you can help me with 2 more top issues i'm having. When I put my top in service mode I found a gray strap just laying in the lt side convertible gutter. Bottom end of the strap is  attached to bottom left  corner of the convertible top and the other end i have no idea where on the conv. top attaches to , any idea where the top strap mount to on the convertible top ?    also both sides of my convertible top where folds has crease lines in multiple areas on the top and the fabric is wearing pretty bad(fraying)-i'm afraid its going to wear through soon. i searched 986 forum one post says it is normal but one guy in that post says it maybe tension cable that wa back in 2013 no update post if problem was fixed or not.  Is the wear(fraying) normal?  

Again thank you for your help. P1630489.JPG.64ee013b7396a938500d77a2a73a2f71.JPG

P1630475.JPG

P1630476.JPG

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P1630479.JPG

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P1630485.JPG

Edited by 03 Boxster

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