Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

  • Admin
Loren, when I change my oil I always put 10 quarts. I was told by a Porsche tech that they always put 10. But after reading some posts here some people have been only puting 9 quarts. How many is the correct?

That will depend on your model and model year.

See the table at the end of the DIY.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Another tip is to use a T50 Torx bit if you have one. It is a better fit than an 8 mm allen.

I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 on my 02 Carrera. The oil was changed last March 2009 at 55K miles and now my car has 60K miles. I often checked the oil level and both the dashboard indicator and dip s

From the Porsche Maintenance Schedule: · On vehicles with annual mileages of less than 9,000 miles (15,000 km), an annual maintenance must be carried out once a year. · Maintenance with oil filte

Posted Images

I'm having a tough time trying to find a proper oil filter wrench. Sunset Porsche stocks them, but they run $33 with the discount and apologies! I've called three L.A. area Porsche dealers' parts departments, and they said they don't stock ANY tools. One suggested Snap-On, so I checked their site http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?t...re=snapon-store, and they have three such wrenches; a 65/67 mm with 14 flats; a 76 mm with 14 flats ("for VW, Porsche, BMW and Mercedes"), and a 93 mm with 15 flats. All are 3/8" drive and look to be of stamped sheet metal. They cost between $10 and $13. Would one fit the Porsche oil filter housing?

Thanks

Edited by 355bhp
Link to post
Share on other sites

After a Google search, I found a link right back here at Renntech to a 986 Boxter thread a coupla years old. The Porsche 9204 tool is 74mm dia with 14 flats. Vector and Assenmacher have equivalent metal tools for Toyota, and they run about $8 to $15. One could likely find them at good auto part stores or a Toyota dealer. The Vector might also be found at motorcycle parts stores, because the 74 mm/14 flat tool also fits Ducati filters. They're all available online, but shipping seems to be as much as the tool itself, and I'd inquire first to be sure that they're of the correct configuration. Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Admin

Based on RFM's excellent recommendation we are suggesting that folks that do their own oil changes upgrade their oil drain plug to a stainless steel version of the drain plug.

The original version is aluminum and strips very easily so this stainless steel version should eliminate that from happening.

900.219.015.00 SS Drain Plug -- US MSRP $21.40

Link to post
Share on other sites

Base on MY06 997 C2S maintenance schedule, oil is being change at minor and major maintenance. I think this schedule is adequate because we have to replace oil as we driven the car between oil changes. Usually, I have to replenish oil at ONE qt. every 3,000 miles. So we have to put in or consumed 6 qts. almost 75% of oil in 20K. Mercedes required owners to replace oil at max. of 14,500 miles but no oil was needed between oil changes. The time limit on the schedule is base on every two years between services. The optimum usage of the car should be 10,00/yr.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Where do you guys order your parts from?

I've checked on sunset, suncoast, pelican, and several other sites, all showed different prices and shipping.

Which store offers the best deal?

And do you recommend OEM filters, or will Hengst or Mahle do fine?

Also, I can't seem to find the stainless steel drain plug.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Where do you guys order your parts from?

I've checked on sunset, suncoast, pelican, and several other sites, all showed different prices and shipping.

Which store offers the best deal?

And do you recommend OEM filters, or will Hengst or Mahle do fine?

Also, I can't seem to find the stainless steel drain plug.

Cosmos, on Friday, I purchased the Porsche filter, stainless "gasket", and ten quarts of Mobil 1 0W-40W from the Porsche dealer for $74 and some change. Granted, I buy parts regularly from them, but it sounds like a deal might be had without too much hassle? My opinion, the Hengst or Mahle would do just fine.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Any of those filters should be fine. All of those retailers regularly have excellent prices. There is no one source. I just had to replace a window regulator. Porsche wanted $350 for the part, Pelican had it for $240, and I ordered what was purportedly an OES part from .com for $160 - factory Porsche AG part arrived much to my delight. If you are cheap, you just have to shop around.

One note on oil changes - please be aware that you probably not doing anything but wasting money, resources, and harming the environment by changing your oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months. There is a reason that Porsche has service intervals set at 10,000, 15,000, or 20,000 miles. Fully synthetic Mobil 1 will last for these intervals and properly lubricate and protect your engine absent extraordinary operating conditions or some other problem. If you are so fussy that you feel compelled to change your oil after 5,000 miles, send a sample to a lab for analysis first and let them tell you that your oil is good for another year and 10,000 miles.

Edited by Loren
Removed link to warranty website (not auto parts)
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
my 00 carrera doesnt like mobile 1 so im using castrol GTX and its perfect

Oh come on - you can't leave it there....

  • Why doesn't your Carrera like Mobil 1?
  • How does it complain?
  • What's the difference when you use Castrol?
  • What weight oil?
  • How many miles have you done?
  • What shoe size are you :unsure:

Link to post
Share on other sites

The last time I change my oil, it got to be pretty messy, as the oil just gushes out one your remove the drain plaug That being said, I just got a flyer from a local hardware store called OSH where they were advertising a oil changing system. The kind where you stick a flexible hose down the dip stick tube to siphon out your oil.

I realize that you still need to get under the car to replace the oil filter and drain out any remaining oil, but I would think that since you're getting most of the oil out through siphoning, that you won't get that big gush of oil when you remove your drain plug.

Sound reasonable.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just changed my oil today in my 2003 Boxster S. Very simple. I recommend using an oil catch pan that doubles as a storage container. Mine cost $15, but I have seen them online for $8.

Question, is there a way to siphon Oil through the fill tube? I tried sticking a clear hose down the filler tube, but it seems to be getting stuck.

Is there a filter or screen somewhere down inside the filler tube? I got about two feet down the tube.

Thanks,

BTW, the 75mm oil cap wrench with 14 flutes branded by Penzoil fits the Boxster/996 filter canister. The code on the filter is "D".$3.99 at Strauss Auto here in the North East.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Admin
Why is Castrol Syntec 10-40 not recommended, but the 5-40 is ? I am just curious. The M1 10-40 is recommended, although it's not available any more.

Thanks!

:welcome:

Mobil 10W-40 has never been on the Porsche "approved" list to my knowledge.

No 10W-40 of any brand has been on the lists in the last 10 years.

When the water cooled sports cars first came out Porsche approved oil was Mobil 1 15W-40, and that changed to 0W-40 or 5W-40 or 5W-50 over the years.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Why is Castrol Syntec 10-40 not recommended, but the 5-40 is ? I am just curious. The M1 10-40 is recommended, although it's not available any more.

Thanks!

:welcome:

Mobil 10W-40 has never been on the Porsche "approved" list to my knowledge.

No 10W-40 of any brand has been on the lists in the last 10 years.

When the water cooled sports cars first came out Porsche approved oil was Mobil 1 15W-40, and that changed to 0W-40 or 5W-40 or 5W-50 over the years.

You are correct. I misunderstood the "M 1 0-40" as 10-40! But my OM says under "synthetic oils" 10-40 and 15-40, but doesn't mention 5-40. I have an '04 996. By the way, killer instructions you have done! Very cool of you! Thanks :)

Thanks for the reply!

Rob

Edited by bigrob
Link to post
Share on other sites

Loren, do you know what the USA part number is for the 02-04 oil filter housing itself (the external 14 sided black plastic housing)? I have a feeling I'm going to be cutting mine off this weekend because for the 2nd time in a year no force on earth seems to be able to move it, so I think we're looking at impact tool or drill through / cut off, any way you slice it I probably need a new one on hand just in case. Thanks, Hans

Any of those filters should be fine. All of those retailers regularly have excellent prices. There is no one source. I just had to replace a window regulator. Porsche wanted $350 for the part, Pelican had it for $240, and I ordered what was purportedly an OES part from .com for $160 - factory Porsche AG part arrived much to my delight. If you are cheap, you just have to shop around.

ECGROSS Which .com had the regulator for $160?

Edited by htny
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Admin

Loren, do you know what the USA part number is for the 02-04 oil filter housing itself (the external 14 sided black plastic housing)? I have a feeling I'm going to be cutting mine off this weekend because for the 2nd time in a year no force on earth seems to be able to move it, so I think we're looking at impact tool or drill through / cut off, any way you slice it I probably need a new one on hand just in case. Thanks, Hans

Any of those filters should be fine. All of those retailers regularly have excellent prices. There is no one source. I just had to replace a window regulator. Porsche wanted $350 for the part, Pelican had it for $240, and I ordered what was purportedly an OES part from .com for $160 - factory Porsche AG part arrived much to my delight. If you are cheap, you just have to shop around.

ECGROSS Which .com had the regulator for $160?

Never seen one you couldn't get off (with the proper tools).

996.107.020.54 Filter housing -- US MSRP $30.94

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Will be doing my first oil change on my boxster s 2000.

The car has been stored for the winter and never started. It is in my garage heated at 60 deg.

I see some posts saying it is better to drain the oil while hot, but is it ok to drain it cold?

Since the car hasn't been started since the last 5 months I figured all dirt etc is sitting at the bottom and probably better not to start before changing.

Also saw posts mentioning it takes approx 8 liters and others up to 9.5 liters. Is this because of the oil cooler? is it better to drain that also?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Admin

Will be doing my first oil change on my boxster s 2000.

The car has been stored for the winter and never started. It is in my garage heated at 60 deg.

I see some posts saying it is better to drain the oil while hot, but is it ok to drain it cold?

Since the car hasn't been started since the last 5 months I figured all dirt etc is sitting at the bottom and probably better not to start before changing.

Also saw posts mentioning it takes approx 8 liters and others up to 9.5 liters. Is this because of the oil cooler? is it better to drain that also?

I would get hot - let it cool slightly and then drain it. You want to get any moisture and condensation to burn off and get carried away in the old oil.

post-1-126910994413_thumb.png

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I did my 20K oil change with the dealer for $500.58 back in Jan 08, now my car is due for another oil change at 33305 miles. After reading the above post, I purchase 0-40Wat $5/qt from autozone this week at promo. I loose the torque on the drain plug and the filter housing before I drive around and warm up the engine to OP Temp. Everything goes on smoothly, until I drop the filter housing to the floor in my garage while I am cleaning it. A piece came off from inside the housing, it is the black piece with a spring on it. I think this piece is for high pressure by pass in the filter housing to avoid oil starvation in the engine. I try to push back the black nipple back to the bottom of the hosing, one little piece of the black plastic attached to the housing came off. This is one of the 3 plastic formed in a circular shape at the bottom of the inside housing to seat the nipple. Then I attached the nipple to the filter and seat it back to the housing screw the housing back to the engine. I am not sure the nipple is install properly.

Loren, please advise, should I seat the black nipple with the spring side face the filter or the bottom of the housing ? If I have to remove the filter housing to correct the problem, to reverse the nipple installation, do I need to drain all my oil once again ? Since the housing is damaged with one out of the three seat broken, do I need to purchase another 996 107 020 54 ?

During the process of oil change, I feel the 8mm wrench socket is perfect for the drain plug. I tested with T50, it has more slack than the 8mm when I seated into the plug. My service manager told me the dealer has a Euro spec. 0-40W which has more additive than the US spec. oil and it will protect the engine longer after I told him I replace the oil and request a reset in the service code.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

if the canister housing is damaged it should be replaced.

I went back to the dealer purchased the new canister and filter. After replace the new item, actually the oil temp. comes down a few degree as it was before. It seems to me the filter from the dealer has less restriction than the one I bought from AutohausAZ. It was the higher temp. in the oil that makes me worry about the broken canister. Actually, when I removed the old filter, it was set in a correct way and the by pass pressure nipple in the canister is set up correctly. One advise, Just buy the dealer's filter for $10.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 on my 02 Carrera. The oil was changed last March 2009 at 55K miles and now my car has 60K miles. I often checked the oil level and both the dashboard indicator and dip stick always show full since the last oil change. Should I change oil now (5K mile interval) or should I wait until 10K miles? BTW, my car has new engine at 47K miles.

What do you guys advise?

Thanks.

Nghia

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Admin

I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 on my 02 Carrera. The oil was changed last March 2009 at 55K miles and now my car has 60K miles. I often checked the oil level and both the dashboard indicator and dip stick always show full since the last oil change. Should I change oil now (5K mile interval) or should I wait until 10K miles? BTW, my car has new engine at 47K miles.

What do you guys advise?

Thanks.

Nghia

From the Porsche Maintenance Schedule:

· On vehicles with annual mileages of less than 9,000 miles (15,000 km), an annual maintenance must be carried out once a year.

· Maintenance with oil filter change must be carried out at least every 2 years according to the mileage, if the mileage for a major maintenance has not already been reached.

· For an annual mileage of more than 9,000 miles (15,000 km) it is recommended to carry out the next maintenance as soon as possible.

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.