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Loren

Door Panel Removal / Install Instructions

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Door Panel Removal / Install Instructions


Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Tools you will need: 10 mm socket or wrench Small narrow regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver 4 mm hex allen socket or 4 mm allen wrench Door Panel Removal Note: If you are just going after the speaker enclosures you may not need to do all the items here (i.e. door handle mechanism). Just remove the minimum and carefully lean the door panel to the si

 

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Loren,

I'm missing something here...

After step 1 and 2, my door looks like this:

post-16435-1171918998_thumb.jpg

I can't see any of the stuff I am supposed to get at in step 3, It looks like they should be somewhere behind the panel which at this stage seems to be firmly in place. What happened between step 2 and 3 that I missed?

I would be grateful for a more detailed explanation!

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OK, I figured it out myself...

At this point, just snap all the clips out around the edge of the door trim and bend it out from below.

The trim now hangs to the upper front and corner and you can access the cables & stuff.

(This is as far as you need to go to get at the door speaker, which is what I was going for replacing)

BTW, the BOSE door driver is a paper cone with textile surround, which does not look like an ideal component choice...

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OK, I figured it out myself...

At this point, just snap all the clips out around the edge of the door trim and bend it out from below.

The trim now hangs to the upper front and corner and you can access the cables & stuff.

(This is as far as you need to go to get at the door speaker, which is what I was going for replacing)

BTW, the BOSE door driver is a paper cone with textile surround, which does not look like an ideal component choice...

tobias - what type of speaker did you choose for replacement in the door? i want to change mine out as well if i can find a speaker that will improve the sound quality.

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i just removed the door panel to take out the window regulator. here is my contribution to making it easier for you:

that foam liner is a bear to get off with that glue. people who write just to pull it off carefully are understating the issue. the glue is very goopy and the foam liner will easily tear before the glue separates, especially around the screw holes where the foam is weaker.

after very slow progress and minor damage to the liner, i ended up getting the whole thing off in a couple of minutes by using a hair dryer to heat the glue and applying constant pulling pressure. it worked like a charm with no damage to the liner.

HTH

Edited by PorschePRH

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Ahhh...that's a good tip! I was also struggling with the removal trying not to tear the liner.

But it wasn't too bad, I guess coz' it was summer back then and HOT in my garage!

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Ahhh...that's a good tip! I was also struggling with the removal trying not to tear the liner.

But it wasn't too bad, I guess coz' it was summer back then and HOT in my garage!

Would someone post a picture of the door after the removal of the interior trim. Thanks Mark

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Ahhh...that's a good tip! I was also struggling with the removal trying not to tear the liner.

But it wasn't too bad, I guess coz' it was summer back then and HOT in my garage!

Would someone post a picture of the door after the removal of the interior trim. Thanks Mark

Mark:

Here is a photo of a Boxster door, after removal of the interior trim. Note that some soundproofing has been added, otherwise it's very similar to the 996:

post-6627-1197951135_thumb.jpg

Also, I found that if you just remove the foam liner on three of the four sides (top, left and right), you won't spend any time lining it up again, and it will be perfectly fitted exactly where it originally was.

Regards, Maurice.

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Hello All DYI'ers,

I've read through all of these and outside of disconnecting the battery so the airbag doesn't blow in your face and the door foam, am I missing any other got'cha's?

The door handle on the driver's side "pop'd" in my hand today and now the handle is a little floppy and when away from the flat against the door position the window is slightly down in the open/close ready position. Anyone had this happen to them? It seams as though I've got to replace the latch spring, looks straight forward enough based on these instructions, pictures and posts.

Thanks,

Gary

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Is the window regulator removal straight forward once you have removed the door panel or is there a special way to remove it? :)

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Is the window regulator removal straight forward once you have removed the door panel or is there a special way to remove it? :)

It was a while ago now that I did it, but it wasn't too hard. The regulator folds up after you loosen the bolts that hold it on. You can wiggle it out fairly easily.

Edited by PorschePRH

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I am in the midst of changing the pass side regulator, can someone dechipher this for me?

Disconnect (3) the bowden cable (arrow and electrical plug connection - Disconnect electrical plug connection from the microswitch for the door handle 9 and orientation lighting 10. Press lugs of the plastic clip (arrow A) and pull out towards the rear. Carefully push the bowden cable 8 back into the end piece of the sleeve.

Where is this at? Is there any way some one could post a pic of this? or point me to a pic if already posted?

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Is the window regulator removal straight forward once you have removed the door panel or is there a special way to remove it? :)

It was a while ago now that I did it, but it wasn't too hard. The regulator folds up after you loosen the bolts that hold it on. You can wiggle it out fairly easily.

Thanks for the link. I remember that post but was having trouble finding it. After recieving the new regulator I had it in no time.

:renntech:

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Steps 3 and 4 are reversed in my opinion. Step 4 must be done before step 3. The hidden plastic screw behind the lid of the compartment has to be removed

before the clips on the outer edges can be removed. I think Porsche goofed when they wrote the instructions. I'm surprised nobody here has pointed this out either.

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Hi,

I agree with you Poorsche, I was having the same problem with step 3 and finding the bowden cable.

I have now unclipped all around the edge but something is still holding the door panel in place around the plastic airbay sign. It's not the allen bolt behind this sign as i have already removed this. I have given quite a hard tug but the panel doesn't seem to want to lift up and outwards at the bottom. Is this the plastic clips 13 and 14 that have to be replaced everytime the door panel is removed. In other words do i have to pull it so hard as to break these clips 13 and 14?

Help!

Edited by kiteboardkid

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From what I remember, and I've pulled the panel a couple of times now, if you are 100% sure you've got all of the bolts give it a good tug. The clips are **** strong (that's a good thing). If you've got the panel up from the window sill you can try and slid your hand behind it from the top and/or bottom, SLOWLY and this may help to direct where the force is needed.

I hope this helps.

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Thanks guys,

All done, it did just need a big tug. Although there is another plastic expanding scew/nut (11) which is behind the door pocket lid, which i hadn't spotted. I wasn't obvious where it was from the pictures.

Any new mechanism/cable fitted as the old cable was frayed.

Thanks again for the help.

Cheers

Neil

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Gentlemen

Some help please.

My drivers door has been randomly refusing to open - from both inside and outside. Very frustrating as it means I gave to climb in from the passenger side each time this happens. Lucky I'm only 5" 6'.

I believe it is the micro switches and I have ordered the part.

Today the door refuses to open at all.

My question is this.

Will I be able to get the door panel off without the door being open ????

I suspect the answer is negative which will be devastating for me.

Help please.

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I created an Instructables consisting of photos of each step. You can see it here.

Edited by GromitInWA

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I just replaced my driver's side window regulator on my '04 C4S, and it was smooth sailing thanks to the info above- in particular, GromitInWA's photos.  The other tutorials online were for either older 996's or Boxsters; while the repair is very similar, some of the screws are in different places on other models.  Gromit's pics were perfect for my '04 996.

 

I purchased the OEM regulator from Pelican (996-542-075-04-M100) for $287.  I know there are cheaper options, but I didn't want to have to do this again and like the peace of mind of knowing that comes with an OEM repair.

 

A few tips:

- Use a heat gun to warm the adhesive behind the foam that keeps moisture out.  If you take your time, you won't rip anything, and it's easy to just press the adhesive back into place when you are finished with the job.

 

- The OEM part has two bumpers on the bottom of the right side rail.  (pic attached.)  Apparently both bumpers are needed if you have a Boxster.  If you have a 911, you need to remove the top bumper, otherwise, the window will not go all the way down.  Just loosen the torx screw and it comes right off.  I didn't realize this until after I put the whole thing back together.  Hope this saves someone else from having to remove the door panel twice.

 

- I was very careful with the airbag so I didn't cause the warning light to come on.  As noted in all tutorials, be sure to remove the negative battery cable, and wait awhile for complete discharge.  By the time I got to the airbag on initial disassembly, the car had been without power for about 45 minutes, and I had no problems

 

- I wasn't sure whether to leave the window up or down before starting the repair.  I left it up.  In hindsight, I recommend putting it down, so it's easier to mark the original position in the window claims with some tape.  You can't access the glass as easily when the window is all the way up.

 

- There is a cable that runs between the two rails, and on my old regulator it was zip-tied to the door frame.   I had to cut the zip tie to remove the old regulator, and put a new tie on for the new regulator.  I recommend this to avoid rattles in the door when the cable is loose.

 

This was a relatively simple job once I got over the nerves of opening up my Porsche.  Anyone with patience and novice mechanical ability can do this.  Thanks to everyone above for paving the way and the encouragement.

 

 

Bumper from regulator.jpg

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