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I have a 99' C2 that seems to need a new clutch. Typical slipping in high gears for a second, rpms increase, then fall back and the car accelerates. The car has all of 43k miles, and I have not driven it hard at all. I bought it with 17k or so miles.

I obtained a quote from the local dealer, and I would like to know if the following part numbers appear correct. This is for a clutch replacement without the flywheel, as it is my fervent hope that it won't need a new (costly) flywheel.

Clutch disk - PO997-116-013-10 - $273.56

Pressure plate - PO996-116-027-02 - $313.03

Release bearing - PO996-116-080-04 - $135.92 (geez that sounds expensive for a bearing!)

Clutch guide tube - PO996-116-087-01 - $43.89

Parts Total - $766.40

7 hours Labor - $686.00 ($98 per hour)

Total $1,567.45 with tax and shop supplies.

Is there anything else that should be replaced? I heard that there was a new design release arm in 2000. Is that what the "Clutch guide tube" is? If not, should I have the release are replaced as well?

Anyone know of any other good 911 mechanic in Tampa?

Thanks! :D

Dean

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There is no mention of the release lever????? If your the lever has never been replaced, it is a MUST. Bad levers in these cars cause premature clutch wear. The is a TSB on this and Porsche should be able to show you. DO NOT allow them to install a new clutch without the updated lever, no matter what they say. Total cost of lever and parts is $50 from dealer. Clutch kit from dealer is only $550, so your price is high.

Edited by 1999Porsche911
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Here is what I have based on the Oct 2005 MSRP dealer price list and Nov 2005 parts list:

Clutch disk - 997 116 013 10 - $251.03

Pressure plate - 996 116 027 02 - $298.12

Release bearing - 996 116 080 04 - $126.44

Clutch guide tube - 996 116 087 01 - $35.11

Total Parts: $709.70

7 hours seems a little over estimated also (IMHO). I would be more apt to believe 3-4 hours tops. Even the service manual quotes 350 TU (or 3 hours 50 minutes).

The clutch guide tube would (should?) have been replaced free had you complained of "creaking noises" under warranty.

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I would highly recommend you replace the external oil separator if it is original. It will only take 5 minutes and will cost a little over $100. Cheap insurance. I would consider it a "maintenance item" similar to replacing the oil sender and thermostat o-ring on the air cooled 911's anytime you had the engine or transmission out of the car for any reason.

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a little offtopic but regarding clutch wear factor, between what range of rpms should i be at for normal driving? and how many rpms do you guys launch at (assuming at a normal red-light, not trying to race the guy next to you)?

i have a japanese friend who tells me he usually cruises around 3-4k rpms in his japanese little import, which appears to me kindof high.. and he also says he lauches at around 3-4k rpms too... my point of view was always launch at the lowest possible rpm without bogging down the engine to minimize engine wear. around 800-1.3krpms? and i usually cruise around 40mph in 4th gear, i think around 2k rpms? anybody? these questions are probably really newbie-ish, but sadly i'm still figuring out how to drive a manual car!

thanks!

-jason

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  • 4 months later...

Hello,

I need to replace the clutch on my 99 C2 as well.

Any other parts I should consider replacing when the car up and apart?

Any special tools required?

what is the part# for the release lever?

What about the RMS? I suppose having one on hand just in case would be a good idea.

Thanks in advance.

BTW shops around here are quoting 8 hours labor with labor rates in the $110-$125 range.

CT

Here is what I have based on the Oct 2005 MSRP dealer price list and Nov 2005 parts list:

Clutch disk - 997 116 013 10 - $251.03

Pressure plate - 996 116 027 02 - $298.12

Release bearing - 996 116 080 04 - $126.44

Clutch guide tube - 996 116 087 01 - $35.11

Total Parts: $709.70

7 hours seems a little over estimated also (IMHO). I would be more apt to believe 3-4 hours tops. Even the service manual quotes 350 TU (or 3 hours 50 minutes).

The clutch guide tube would (should?) have been replaced free had you complained of "creaking noises" under warranty.

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ITs time for me to replace my too.,

I have the workshop manual from porsche.,.., would it be possible to change it myself, .... it don't seem that hard... except dropping the transmission while the car is on a stand.....

Hello,

I need to replace the clutch on my 99 C2 as well.

Any other parts I should consider replacing when the car up and apart?

Any special tools required?

what is the part# for the release lever?

What about the RMS? I suppose having one on hand just in case would be a good idea.

Thanks in advance.

BTW shops around here are quoting 8 hours labor with labor rates in the $110-$125 range.

CT

Here is what I have based on the Oct 2005 MSRP dealer price list and Nov 2005 parts list:

Clutch disk - 997 116 013 10 - $251.03

Pressure plate - 996 116 027 02 - $298.12

Release bearing - 996 116 080 04 - $126.44

Clutch guide tube - 996 116 087 01 - $35.11

Total Parts: $709.70

7 hours seems a little over estimated also (IMHO). I would be more apt to believe 3-4 hours tops. Even the service manual quotes 350 TU (or 3 hours 50 minutes).

The clutch guide tube would (should?) have been replaced free had you complained of "creaking noises" under warranty.

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I expect to have to replace mine soon. I figure I'll replace the flywheel with a lightened one while I'm in there. Noone has mentioned it, is it not a popular mod for the 996?

I'm so excited, my JIC coil-overs & H&R rear sway bar are going to be installed this Friday and my first trackday with this car is Saturday.

-Shawn

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7 Hours!!!????? Try 3 hours , 4 if they are real slow, however in reality they will have the job done in 2.

Keep in mind that any dealer service tech that is worth anything can do a complete RMS/IMS update in 4 hours.

You are being quoted the rack rate list "we have a sucker here" price. This job with parts is not worth more than $800.

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EBAY I think!!!

Where?

I just bought a new clutch kit for my '99 Carrera C2 and received it today. I got the disc, pressure plate assy, and bearing for $339.00 with free shipping. It is all genuine Sachs and made in Germany.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just quoted $1450.00 parts and labor including the RMS at http://www.hergesheimer.com/.

An ex-Porschedealer mechanic in Riverside said anywhere from 500-1400 including the RMS replacement.

Both were estimated for an all day repair. (i.e. 8am-5pm).

Any thoughts?

BTW my estimates were for a 98 boxster

Edited by ralegen
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I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

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I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB:

The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.

post-3742-1147218032_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1999Porsche911
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have been informed that the clutch release lever is a new part number...

996 116 712 04 Release lever (modified) => now 997-116-712-00

I am in the midst of my clutch replacement on my '99 C2. Getting the tranny out was not that bad.

I am waiting for a couple before I put it back together;

-release fork

-oil seperator

The flywheel looks ok, I never had any problems with it but I was curious if I should have it resurfaced or just leave it as is? If I do have it resurfaced how much can be machined before shims are required?

Thanks

Chris

I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB:

The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.

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I have been informed that the clutch release lever is a new part number...

996 116 712 04 Release lever (modified) => now 997-116-712-00

I am in the midst of my clutch replacement on my '99 C2. Getting the tranny out was not that bad.

I am waiting for a couple before I put it back together;

-release fork

-oil seperator

The flywheel looks ok, I never had any problems with it but I was curious if I should have it resurfaced or just leave it as is? If I do have it resurfaced how much can be machined before shims are required?

Thanks

Chris

I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB:

The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.

I believe the "00" part number is the orginal part and should not be used. The lastest number is as listed above. Make sure you use that one. Call dealers if you want verification of the latest part number.

Resurfacing is not necessary unless there is excessive bluing of the metal. In that case, resurface like any other flywheel, Shims are not needed.

Edited by 1999Porsche911
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a '99 C4 and just want to make sure I have a complete part list for my upcoming clutch job. So far I have the following:

Clutch disk - 997 116 013 10

Pressure plate - 996 116 027 02

Release bearing - 996 116 080 04

Clutch guide tube - 996 116 087 01

Total Parts: $709.70 (Thanks, Loren)

Plus the TSB Below:

post-7644-1151510334_thumb.jpg

Is there anything I am missing?

I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB:

The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.

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  • 4 months later...

Loren,

I have been studying your posts re clutch replacement...

MY01 c4 is due for its 90K service, in 2,000 miles, as well the clutch is just beginning to slip in first, RPMs are still fine as is drivability.

Here is my main question? Would it be beneficial to replace the clutch during the 90k servie? ie. with the engine out to perform the required maintenance or should I just let it burn out naturally... By the way, this is the first clutch...

On a side note... the clutch resevouir... should it be near empty at cold, almost non registering? and have some at hot... I feel like I should add some fluid, but am very hesitant to prolongthe clutch life I have.

Miraculassly its gotten this far with my driving. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving as well... And by the way thanks for your tips with the Cat.. all is back to normal there.

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