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There is no programming setting for that.

Just leave your center console cover slightly ajar. That will trigger a fault beep when you lock the car.

The fault beep will also sound when either any of the doors, truck, engine bay lids are open. So, if you rely on hearing a fault beep while arming the alarm, this would cancel out the benefit of having the alarm in the first place.

I would just ensure the parking lights blink twice when arming the alarm. Thereby ensuring a properly closed vehicle and armed alarm system.

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There is no programming setting for that.

Just leave your center console cover slightly ajar. That will trigger a fault beep when you lock the car.

Loren,

Thanks for the reply. I'm surprised that there is no audible option. I'm going to visit a good aftermarket stereo/alarm place that I know and see what they can suggest.

Cheers,

Stan

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I was having the same issue. I hated not being able to hear an audible signal that the car was locked. Upon a bit of reading, I found that when you lock the car if you push the lock button twice in rapid succession (twice in two seconds or so) that the horn does signal that the car is locked. At least on mine, 2001 C2.

There is, to my limited knowledge, no way to have an audible signal for the car being unlocked. Hope this helps!

-Sean

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If you push the button twice you get a beep because the motion detector was turned off.

I do not close the center console lid all the way because I am usually walking away from the car by the time I set the alarm.

The exterior lights flash (I think twice) when setting the alarm. People have talked in the past about hooking up a piezo device so that you would get 2 sound signals that comes on when the lights flash.

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I dont think my lights flash either. Is there a setting for that?

US or Row car?

I know US cars blink twice on arm and disarm but I don't know about RoW cars.

Loren - ROW cars (Well my '04car 'Downunder') blink twice on Arming and only once on Dis-arming.

Edited by ZX7R
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People have talked in the past about hooking up a piezo device so that you would get 2 sound signals that comes on when the lights flash.

Is this done in a way so that the piezo isn't activated when you simply turn your lights on via the light switch? It seems that there must be a separate relay that the alarm activates and is connected to the parking lights when arm/disarming the alarm. If so, couldn't one simply connect an external sounder or connect a wire to the stock horn? Or... is this all handled by the cars electronic brain with a low voltage signal?

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The exterior lights flash (I think twice) when setting the alarm. People have talked in the past about hooking up a piezo device so that you would get 2 sound signals that comes on when the lights flash.

Not so cool to sound like the garbage truck everytime you use the turn signal :oops:

Loren - ROW cars (Well my '04car 'Downunder') blink twice on Arming and only once on Dis-arming.

Same here with the original setting :P

Thorsten (from Germany)

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Since I posted a similar question on this subject, I have come up with 2 possible solutions.

However from reading the mail, there are some anomalies with the European car and the rest of the world, so I can only go by how my 2004 UK spec, built in Germany, car works. The UK spec alarm has to comply with our MPT1340 licence exempt rules for transmitters and thus are different from those used elsewhere.

When I set the alarm and lock the car from the key, the front, rear and side repeater "amber" turn signal lights flash. twice on lock, once on unlock. (All our turn signal lamps are amber in Europe, and our cars dont have side marker lamps)

Solution one is to find the output wire from the alarm module (under the seat) that sends the signal to do this. It can be high or low depending on the module make and car build year. If its low, move on to second solution. (it can be done, but its not worth the effort)

If its high ie.+v 12v(nom) then cut the wire and insert a 1n2001 diode with the band downstream from the alarm module. Then you can connect the positive wire of a small piezo sounder on the module side of the diode. The other (neg) wire on the sounder goes to ground at a convenient point. DONE !!!

The reason I say leave it if there is a low signal output from the alarm module, is because I don't have the wiring diagrams for all the alarm modules.

I had a few issues with this on my M5 and and a Clifford alarm and they took a while to deal with.

Solution two can be done under the front scuttle compartment between the windscreen and the boot (trunk)

You will need a simple 12v single pole change over relay (Bosch, Hella etc) and a suitable sounder. This can be an alarm sounder but not the cars own horn. (Draws too much current)

Find the output wire that goes to the front turn indicator, either side will do, and connect a single strand of wire from here to terminal 30 on the relay. Then connect the +ve side of the sounder to terminal 87a on the relay, and the -ve side of the sounder to ground.

Next connect terminal 85 of the relay to an ignition switch controlled +ve supply and finally term 86 to ground. (best not to use the same ground as the sounder, unless its a vehicle ground point)

Insulate terminal 87 on the relay.

All connections should be soldered and heatshrink or self amalgamating tape applied for safety.

What happens now is the turn signal output from the alarm will trigger the sounder but only when the ignition is switched off.

I know there are other "solid state" ways of achieving this, but I think the "kitchen table surgery" method will give it more universal appeal.

If you have a ROW car with side/parking light flash, you can still use these methods with appropriate caution.

Perhaps Loren can help out with the wiring colour codes for the ROW cars.

CHECK YOU UNDERSTAND AND KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY OF THE ABOVE. I WILL NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY FAULTS OR DAMAGE HOWEVER INDUCED OR CAUSED BY THIS MOD. IT WORKED ON MY UK SPEC, GERMAN BUILT 2004 CAR.

NOW...Quid pro quo... I need to know where the jumper is to activate BOTH rear fog lamps on my car. Porsche fit bulbs and wiring on both sides but only the right side works on the RHD cars and only the left side on the LHD cars. My dealer says "run a wire across the engine compartment", but I am sure there is a neater, jumper or relay option somewhere..ANYONE KNOW ??

Cheers.. :beer:

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Hi,

I was wondering if there is a way to activate an audible signal when arming or disarming the alarm.

I often find that I have to go back and check if the doors are locked after walking away from the car.

Cheers,

Stan

I just installed the Porsche short shifter last night. There is a harness (two wires) that leads to the rear console compartment lid switch. if you leave this wire unplugged, I believe that the alarm system will always "think" that the glove box is left open. that would trigger the beep from the alarm. This would obviously allow you to be able to keep the compartment lid closed at all times. of course, you'd have to remove the rear console to get to the harness but it's worth a shot if you intend on ever removing the rear console for the short shift install. it's worth a shot to try it out. wish i had tried it out b/c i particularly don't like that fact that there's no audible beep either and don't like having to remember to leave the compartment open everytime i step out of the car.

all of this really depends on how the lid switch works. i'm assuming that when the lid is open, the switch opens and the current gets broken and when the lid is closed, the switch closes and completes the circuit.

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First, if you just want to know how to get the beep; read the last sentence :)

OK, I had some time last night to goof around and I decided to investigate the two wires. Basically, the harness consists of one wire: Orange/Brown and one wire: Brown.

With a flat microscrewdriver, it is possible to disassemble the connector plug. it is numbered from 1 to 3 for the pin positions. Pin 1 is where the Orange/Brown wire is inserted. Pin 3 is where the Brown wire is inserted. Just at the rear of the connector, there's a plastic cap. with the screwdriver, you can pop this cap off. Be careful not the lose this plastic cap. it looks like it is hinged but it's not. place a towel down to catch it should it fall. Once you remove the cap, you will expose the pins alittle more. with the same screwdriver, you can push the barb that holds the pin in and release them out of the connector. it's a two stage process for the barb. you do the leading edge first and pull. then the wire will slide back a couple millimeters. then you push the barb down again where the new exposed area from the cap removal was. This will allow you to completely remove the pin.

I also removed the microswitch that will trigger the alarm beep should the lid be left open. There's really not much to take apart in the microswitch but it did allow me to test further w/o having to have the whole rear console sitting in my lap. The microswitch is numbered equally the same in the female pin portion of its connector: from 1 to 3.

Here's what I found:

I left the brown wire in its original position (#3) and moved the Orange/Brown wire from Pin 1 to 2. Depressing the microswitch (to imitate the lid being closed), I hit the lock button on the key. No beep :( Then, releasing the microswitch, I armed the vehicle again. No beep :(

So what does this tell me? Pin #2 of the microswitch is not assigned to any function. So, it's either Pin #1 or Pin #3. Well, just to be thorough, I reversed the pin connections (ie. Brown to Pin #1; Orange/Brown to Pin #3) and again tried the system. with the microswitch depressed, there's no beep. with it released, there's a beep. So, the system behaves exactly the same as the factory irrespective of the pins being reversed.

Now that we understand that pin relocation therapy doesn't work, what happens if you jump the two pins together? Jump the two wires together and the alarm beeps.

Long story short: If you want to have the alarm beep, jump Pin #1 and Pin #3 together on the wire harness that leads to the lid microswitch. As for me, i put everything back and went to bed. I was disappointed b/c many microswitches do have three pins allowing you to choose SWITCHED or UNSWITCHED. Obviously, this isn't the case for this little lid switch. And one more thing, if you don't want to jump the wires, you could always just cut or bend the metal arm that triggers the microswitch. Bend it down far enough that when you close the lid, the microswitch doesn't get triggered. A new microswitch (Part #: 996 613 205 00) costs about $20.

Edited by JeeCS4
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Has anyone tried just disconnecting the center console lid wire connector and see what happens when you arm the alarm? Couldn't be that simple......

One concern though, the alarm "beeps" when you arm it if something is wrong. So if you have it beep all the time, you may miss a fault in the system.

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Has anyone tried just disconnecting the center console lid wire connector and see what happens when you arm the alarm? Couldn't be that simple......

One concern though, the alarm "beeps" when you arm it if something is wrong. So if you have it beep all the time, you may miss a fault in the system.

I did just that and it doesn't beep. And I hear ya on the fault warning. That's why I just plugged it back in and decided to live with the way the factory originally intended the system to be.

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