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Thanks!!

By the way, where did that diagram come from? I have the (lousy) factory manuals and I did not see it there.

It came from my service manual that has had all the factory updates (95 supplements).

I must not have the supplements. Do you know if it is possible to get them from a dealer?

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How's the clutch replacement going? I have the same problem with the same year car and am thus interested.

I won't be getting back to it for a couple weeks. I will report back in when I get a chance. BTW, lubricating the moving parts eliminiated the noise and roughness temporarily.

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  • 1 month later...

How's the clutch replacement going? I have the same problem with the same year car and am thus interested.

I won't be getting back to it for a couple weeks. I will report back in when I get a chance. BTW, lubricating the moving parts eliminiated the noise and roughness temporarily.

I finally got around to replacing the clutch pedal parts on my '98 to get rid of the noise and rough action. I ordered the following parts as others have recommended (may differ from year to year):

996 423 139 10 Pedal

996 423 081 12 Power spring

996 423 315 06 pin

000 043 204 40 Silicon spray

This job is not too hard as long as you can get your eyes under the dash. Here is how I did it in case you are contemplating a DIY:

1. Remove ventilation hose to side vent directly under the steering wheel so you can see better. Just pull the two ends out from the other hoses.

2. Remove pin holding clutch master cylinder to pedal. There is a small clip holding this pin in. Remove the clip and push the pin out. These are parts #2 and #3 in the picture earlier in this thread.

3. Remove the switch on the front of the pedal (part #1 in the picture) by rotating and pulling out..

4. Remove the power spring (part #5 in the picture). First put a cotter pin or small nail through the small hole in the end of the metal rod that sticks out of the end of the power spring. You will see what I mean by examining the new one. If you don't do this, it will fly apart when you remove it from the pedal because it is under tension (don't ask how I know :eek: ). Now remove the other end of the power spring from the pedal.

5. Remove 10 mm nuts (3) which secure the sheet metal frame which surrounds the pedal. There are two towards the inside of the car and one towards the outside

6. Remove clip (part #4 in picture) from end of shaft.

7. Slide clutch pedal and metal frame off shaft. You will probably need to remove a few of the relays on the relay panel.

Now just spray all places where parts contact and put it back together. Don't forget to remove the cotter pin from the back of the power spring once it has been re-installed. In my case, the difference in clutch pedal action was night and day.

Good luck.

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What was the parts cost and time required to change out ?

Total parts cost was $139.35 from Automobile Atlanta. The silicon spray was over $20 of that. It took me about two hours to do it because I needed to figure out how it came apart. I could now do it in half the time. Hope this helps.

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My 98 boxster clutch pedal squeaks a bit too. However, after you finished, does it in any way feel softer? I know replacing the actual clutch will give the softer results, but besides the noise, what else have you notice for improvements?

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My 98 boxster clutch pedal squeaks a bit too. However, after you finished, does it in any way feel softer? I know replacing the actual clutch will give the softer results, but besides the noise, what else have you notice for improvements?

I had been getting noise for about 3 years. Apparently, the effort required to operate the pedal had been increasing as well. After installing the clutch, the effort was MUCH smoother and it was much easier to operate. Obviously, YMMV.

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  • 1 month later...
Did you have to replace the whole pedal?

(996 423 139 10 Pedal)

And any other parts that you would recommend?

Not sure if the pedal was what had the most effect or not. I suspect that either the pedal or return spring were the most important. I just followed the recommendation of the TSB. It sure fixed it for my car. The only other part to consider is the little bushings on the sides of the pedal where it meets the shaft it rotates on.

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