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Replacing the Coolant Reservoir on a MY99 996


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Thank you guys, first time working on my 2000 996 carrera and I loved it, you guys made it too simple!

I also have a leak coming from around the tank area. One problem, the coolant tank was replaced a few months ago and therefor is new ! I came back from a "spirited" run to find coolant dripping quite badly from very close to the top of the black overflow tube (Under the top of the resevoir lip). It looks like the coolant is "tracking" around the back of the resevoir and dripping down beside the overflow tube? No coolant is coming out of the overflow tube. I cannot see where the leak is coming from. Could it be the new tank has failed, or is there a coolant pipe leaking that would allow the coolant to travel around the top / back of the resevoir and drip off the lip?

Any help appreciated.

Have you check the tank cap?

If the part number ends in 00 it likely needs to be replaced (with the 01).

Seems all of the 00 part number caps eventually leak.

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I would add the following to help others attempting this ... please read the above and the below completely BEFORE starting your work. You'll thank yourself ! Getting the tank out I'd remove the a

2002 C2 Cab Just got done replacing my coolant tank. I found that I needed to lower the engine about 3 " in order to fit the larger coolant tank into the cavity. Once I lowered the engine it poped

First of all, I want to commend Loren for the GREAT DIY instructions here. I have never done a DIY project, and this was my first. I printed out the text and the pictures and had them on a table nex

Posted Images

Thank you guys, first time working on my 2000 996 carrera and I loved it, you guys made it too simple!

I also have a leak coming from around the tank area. One problem, the coolant tank was replaced a few months ago and therefor is new ! I came back from a "spirited" run to find coolant dripping quite badly from very close to the top of the black overflow tube (Under the top of the resevoir lip). It looks like the coolant is "tracking" around the back of the resevoir and dripping down beside the overflow tube? No coolant is coming out of the overflow tube. I cannot see where the leak is coming from. Could it be the new tank has failed, or is there a coolant pipe leaking that would allow the coolant to travel around the top / back of the resevoir and drip off the lip?

Any help appreciated.

Have you check the tank cap?

If the part number ends in 00 it likely needs to be replaced (with the 01).

Seems all of the 00 part number caps eventually leak.

The cap was also replaced a couple of month's ago when the tank was fitted. The leak is not from this area as it was dry when I was checking for the source of the leak. It appears to be coming from the "upper front" of the tank and then flowing to the back (closest to the rear of car). Is there a pipe anywhere is this forward area or will I have to remove the tank and check if its split after only 8 month;s use !!

Edited by tomf
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Your were right Loren, the 8 month old reservoir has a crack in it !! Iv'e only done 800 miles since it was replaced at my local Indy, (Bad luck or what)?

The instructions on how to remove the tank were great (Thanks), so I thought I'd give it a crack. The only problem I had was draining the anti-freeze. I could not budge the drain plug and feared breaking something. I decided to remove the small hose from the "T" piece hose at the bottom of the reservoir and poured it straight into an empty 2ltr pop bottle. A tiny amount of coolant fell into my "plastic paint roller tray" on the floor below the exhaust.

I'll see if the manufacturers will replace the defective tank, But I doubt it.

Update: The reservoir was replaced free of charge.

Edited by tomf
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  • 2 months later...

I have a 1999 C4 convertible. I think it was pretty hard to get it out and put it back in. I also ruined one of my return fuel lines while putting the reservoir back. The line cost me $93. So be very carefull when putting back the tank

KL

Start by removing the air filter/metering unit. Two clips hold the Air Fuel Meter cable in place. Disconnect AFM connector and set aside.Remove single bolt holding AF assembly (13mm) and tilt unit back to remove. Set aside.

Remove 2 bolts and 1 nut (10mm) holding air pump. One nut holds the Coolant Reservoir. Set aside. I used some string to pull it away from CR.

post-2-1139607471_thumb.jpg

Drain antifreeze by means of drain plug at the bottom of engine. Drain just enough to empty CR, then a little more. I used an aluminum turkey tray to hold antifreeze and reuse.

post-2-1139607498_thumb.jpg

Loosen 3 spring clamps holding hoses to CR. There are two fuel lines that will prevent you from removing the tank from the engine compartment. Loosen (17 & 19mm) them and tuck away (see picture). Disconnect tank sensor. In my car, it seems like it was leaking... (see picture)

post-2-1139607544_thumb.jpg post-2-1139607553_thumb.jpg

Slide tank towards engine and maneuver tank out. Be careful with other hoses and electrical connectors.

post-2-1139607585_thumb.jpg

Reverse the procedure to install. Add antifreeze, purge and check for leaks.

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  • 4 months later...

Some follow-up info for those who are using this great DIY themselves. Sunset Imports (a Rennlist sponsor, (800) 346-0182) is a great place to get the parts for this. Here are the prices in August of 2008 for what I needed (typical for this fix).

$182.11 Coolant Reservoir (996.106.147.56)

$12.16 Reservoir Cap: (not included with reservoir)

$15.27 Level Sensor (97.641.503.00)

$1.24 Rubber Nuts for Air filter/metering unit (999.500.078.00) These rot out it seems (mine too). Need two.

Happy wrenching!

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Some follow-up info for those who are using this great DIY themselves. Sunset Imports (a Rennlist sponsor, (800) 346-0182) is a great place to get the parts for this. Here are the prices in August of 2008 for what I needed (typical for this fix).

$182.11 Coolant Reservoir (996.106.147.56)

$12.16 Reservoir Cap: (not included with reservoir)

$15.27 Level Sensor (97.641.503.00)

$1.24 Rubber Nuts for Air filter/metering unit (999.500.078.00) These rot out it seems (mine too). Need two.

Happy wrenching!

Sunset Imports is NOT a Rennlist sponsor -- they ARE a RennTech.org sponsor ;)

  • Thanks 1
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  • 1 month later...

Completed the job today with parts from Sunset. Approximately $230 in parts before express shipping (included new tank, 1 gallon in coolant, sensor, new cap). MY99 C2.

Took me about 2-3 hours. I did some other things at the same time (air filter, cabin particle filter) and I had a few bumps in the road (lost a grommet, car wouldn't go high enough for my jack stands, had to re-read parts of the directions).

Relatively straightforward. Getting the tank in and out is tedious. Here are a few comments:

1) Agree with the poster that recommended REMOVING the air pump instead of pushing it aside. -- just makes it easier to get the tank in and out. NOTE: the connector on that airpump mounts to the airpump body. It SLIDES loose. I pulled out against it (instead of sliding) and the plastic cracked. It didn't break in a way that required replacing, but better to not break the nice mounting point.

2) Make sure you have a decent tool set. Two things that are very helpful are: (1) deepset 10mm socket. The top nut that holds the tank and the air pump was on a bolt that was too long for a normal socket. I didn't have that and it took a bit longer to remove. (2) The two bottom bolts on the are easier to remove if you have an extension of approximately 6". I used a quarter-inch drive, 10mm socket with an extension. There is a rubber grommet on the airpump mounting plate where it screws down against the car. Best to pull it off and set it in the parts tray. It is about 1 inch around and slides into the metal mounting plate. I left mine in and it became dislodged, fell in the engine bay and took me 20 minutes to find.

3) The hose clamps are a PITA to remove and re-install. They look like there is a specific tool for them and it sure would help. I used locking vice grips and that was decent, but not a great solution.

4) I re-inserted the new tank before installing the sensor. Don't mount the tank in the 'slot'; while it is loose, you move the tank until you have enough room to slide the sensor into place. I am not sure I could have gotten the tank in place with the sensor installed. I purchased a new sensor as a safety measure -- of course I didn't break the old one.

5) I used tie-wraps to hold stuff out of the way while working. This had two advantages -- it was out of the way AND I knew all the things I have removed and needed to re-install.

6) There are some plastic bits for holding hoses that are easy to break. I suspect they become brittle from the engine heat. I am going to look for the part numbers and post them. I am sure these parts are cheap, and it would be worthwhile to have some handle for the inevitable breakage.

7) This is a good time to replace the air filter if you are due. Easy and you are right there. Same thing for the serpentine belt in the front of the engine -- easy to replace and you are right there. I didn't clean the MAF, but you are right there for that too if you are so inclined.

8) I somehow fouled the cable for the engine release. It is 'loose' and I doubt it will work if I close the latch. If I discover anything when I fix it that is relevant to this DIY I will repost. Not sure if I pulled cable incorrectly or what. I covered the engine latch with a towel so I can get back in to inspect and repair tomorrow. EDIT: Note that the EMERGENCY release cable is in this area. It should be routed behind the drivers side stop light. I just needed to route it back to the original location. See this article: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...01&hl=Sandy.

GREAT DIY. Well within the ability of of people with modest technical skills, patience and a decent toolset. PM if you have any questions.

Edited by latestart
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  • 1 month later...

I have a 2001 996 C4. I had followed all the instructions of disconnecting all the tubes and fuel lines from the Coolant Reservoir tank. The tank is totally free from any connections but I cannot get it out from the engine cavity (see attached pic). My questions are:

1) Is there a step I am missing?

2) As mentioned in this forum, should I lower the engine?

3) How do I lower the engine?

This is my first time posting and tinkering with my car. I truly appreciate your inputs.

Thanks in advance.

post-36350-1226521064_thumb.jpg

Edited by mtorr
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  • 3 weeks later...

HI,

I have a problem with my coolant tank again. I replaced it in March and it looks like it's cracked again. I have a 1999 Carrera 4 convertible and I had a hard time replacing it last time. It was a real pain...

I was wondering if lowering the engine would make difference? For me it would be a great idea to get that extra space.

Kristian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Folks I am trying to pull out my old tank and seems like it's much longer than the ones in the pictures above. Th new one is similar to the ones in the pic. Mine is a 01 C2 and looks like it still has the one from day one. It feels like something is still attached at the back of the tank (towards the front of the car). So i am kinda stuck . I've already removed everything like this post said and any help is appreciated.

-Han

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I had the same problems as you guys when I worked on this project. I have a 2001 C4 Tiptronic Coupe and I had read somewhere in this forum that MY2000 and later have less wiggle room than its older siblings. Anyway to answer your questions (based on my experience working on my car):

1. No - there are no connections at the back of the coolant tank that you need to disconnect in order to take the tank out. There are however tubes and fuel lines that you need to detach and they are all visible from the front side. See pic arrow 1 - fuel line attached to the fuel collection pipe on which the fuel injection valves (3 on the left side) are attached.

2. No - I did not not lower my engine (I don't know how anyway). I did, however, pull the fuel injection valves (accidentally) from its receptacle on the left side of the engine which did give me some wiggle room to pull the tank out of from its cavity. In order to do this, you need to detach the 2 screws holding the fuel collection pipe and pull it up (see pic arrow 2).

It takes at lot of patience to detach the tank from its mount and to wiggle the tank out of there. I do not know much about fixing cars and this was my first project - and I was able to do it - so can you. Good luck.

post-36350-1229233257_thumb.jpg

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I have a small leak coming from that area. It looks down and onto and off the exhaust pipe/tip on the driver side. It's an 99 so I'm thinking it's cracked but would that be the area it would leak out onto the ground? Only does it when the car runs really hot and for quick short drives when the engine doesn't heat up fully it doesn't leak.

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Mine started that way, however, it got worse with time. At first, I could not even see the leak but I can smell the coolant when I drive. That is exactly the area where it would leak since the coolant expansion tank is right on top of the exhaust pipe.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I had the same problems as you guys when I worked on this project. I have a 2001 C4 Tiptronic Coupe and I had read somewhere in this forum that MY2000 and later have less wiggle room than its older siblings. Anyway to answer your questions (based on my experience working on my car):

1. No - there are no connections at the back of the coolant tank that you need to disconnect in order to take the tank out. There are however tubes and fuel lines that you need to detach and they are all visible from the front side. See pic arrow 1 - fuel line attached to the fuel collection pipe on which the fuel injection valves (3 on the left side) are attached.

2. No - I did not not lower my engine (I don't know how anyway). I did, however, pull the fuel injection valves (accidentally) from its receptacle on the left side of the engine which did give me some wiggle room to pull the tank out of from its cavity. In order to do this, you need to detach the 2 screws holding the fuel collection pipe and pull it up (see pic arrow 2).

It takes at lot of patience to detach the tank from its mount and to wiggle the tank out of there. I do not know much about fixing cars and this was my first project - and I was able to do it - so can you. Good luck.

post-36350-1229233257_thumb.jpg

Thanks mtorr. I'll try it out. From the pics it looks like your tank is already out of it's place and did u just needed to remove the injection valves to take it out or you need to remove the injection valves to get to the point in the pic. Again thanks for the info.

-Han

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You need to DETACH all the rubber tubes and metal fuel lines that are around the coolant tank. You need to painstakingly wiggle the coolant tank from its top mount first. Once it is detached from its mount, it cannot be easily taken out from the engine cavity, thus I resorted to removing the injection valves. Hope this helps.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
instead of loosening the fuel lines, jus slide the reservoir from the reservoir support holder, then remove the support holder. this will give you a lot more room to get the reservoir out

Great point! I also found it easier to just remove the "snorkel" from the AF housing or "airbox" it just slides off and makes plenty of room to access the CR.

post-17941-1235531120_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the CR replaced the other day, and took the old one over to a local radiator shop for a pressure test. Sure enough there was a crack below the seam along the outboard side. A visual inspection revealed other cracks but they didn't leak...yet. Hopefully, Porsche got the revised tank right. Thanks to all for informative posts and great DIY information. Knowledge is power!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Anyone know if the instructions are any different for a 2002?

Thanks!!!

I just replaced the coolant tank on a 2002 996 C2 which has no fuel lines connected like the 1999 DIY photo, only has one fuel bolt, However I did remove left rear motor mount and placed a jack under the engine ( the rectangle part) to support and drop the engine to give me more room about 2". Once I disconnected the hoses and and got the, sensors and air pump out of the way, I pulled the tank out and broke the tank support( black plastic thing on top that the tank that slides in) Got a used support from a junkyard in LA for $15 including shipping new cost $28. Took me about 2 hous to get the tank out. There was no freaking way to get the new tank in with the tank support on top. I tried tilting the 10-20 degree counter-clockwise still no luck so I unscrewed the 2 screws on the tank support using a 10mm sucket and got the support out of the way, pushed the tank in and then slided to the right toward the engine, slided the support on the tank, now I have enough room to screw the left screw on the support but no room for the right screw. I slided the tank to the left inside the support and finished the job. The support is holding the tank with only one screw and you cant tell, no wiggle or movement. Car has been running great. I'm sure there was a reason Porsche used 2 screws, I think the support has a bad design, If Porsche could make a cavity so the screws on the support could be tighten withouT removing the tank. BTW I got a brand new tank on ebay for $115 including shipping using my ebay 10% coupon. So as Frank Sinatra once said: " I did it my way" Sorry guys English is my 2nd language.

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  • 2 months later...

2003 C2 Cabriolet.

I'm having a problem getting the new tank back into place.

I cheated in removing the old tank...it absolutely refused to surrender its position; nothing like a Dremel and a sharp cutting bit. Unfortunately I can't repeat that step to install the new tank.

Like Niacal4nia, I only had the one bold ontop of the fuel collector; I've also removed the air pump and all of the hoses. But that tank just wont fit into that spot. Unlike Niacal4nia, I am uncomfortable removing an engine mount bolt and lowering the engine.

I was able to insert the tank into its proper place by removing the tank support; but that leads to the problem of getting the tank support into its spot while the tank is sitting there. Specifically, how do I attach the two bolts, each sitting inside what I would call cups that are accessible only from the bottom, the space which the tank is occupying.

I attempted to include some pictures, but the attachment/upload editor isn't working; if anyone can clue me into how to include pictures I have a whole bunch I can share.

Anyone had any experience doing this with an '03? My car, which I rely upon as a daily driver, is sitting in pieces; I could really use some help.

Edited by tac27
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2003 C2 Cabriolet.

I'm having a problem getting the new tank back into place.

I cheated in removing the old tank...it absolutely refused to surrender its position; nothing like a Dremel and a sharp cutting bit. Unfortunately I can't repeat that step to install the new tank.

Like Niacal4nia, I only had the one bold ontop of the fuel collector; I've also removed the air pump and all of the hoses. But that tank just wont fit into that spot. Unlike Niacal4nia, I am uncomfortable removing an engine mount bolt and lowering the engine.

I was able to insert the tank into its proper place by removing the tank support; but that leads to the problem of getting the tank support into its spot while the tank is sitting there. Specifically, how do I attach the two bolts, each sitting inside what I would call cups that are accessible only from the bottom, the space which the tank is occupying.

I attempted to include some pictures, but the attachment/upload editor isn't working; if anyone can clue me into how to include pictures I have a whole bunch I can share.

Anyone had any experience doing this with an '03? My car, which I rely upon as a daily driver, is sitting in pieces; I could really use some help.

Install the black support bracket on the tank and have a friend hold the tank half way in the support so you have enough room to do the left outer screw using a flash light, then slide the tank all the way in. You don't need two screws. My tank is holding by one screw and has been working fine with no movement or tilt and still level. I'm not sure if it will slide in without droping the engine using the left motor mount, but if you got the tank in, then I think it's OK. I have no Idea how Porsche does it with 2 screws on the support but $800 for labor, I went with for the one screw support.

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post-8781-1244151456_thumb.jpg

Just figuring out how to post pictures.

I had tried to insert this picture in an above post; for some reason my desktop will not complete the upload process, but my laptop will...

Computers and coolant expansion tanks will be the death of me.....

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