Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
jmbarroso

New engine lack of power and duller exhaust note

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody,

I'm new to the forum so I apologize beforhand if this topic has been covered already. I have a 2006 Boxster S, manual transmission. I took it to the dealer for the passenger airbag disconnection switch to be installed, with no more than 400 miles in the car. When I picked up, the first thing I notice was a too shaky idle. I though this might be due to not running the car for about a week, but I tipically drive it on weekends so that can't be a reason. Ok, idle smoothened after warming up, but the exhaust sound was a bit different. Then I started to drive it and I perceived some lack of power and a less responsive accelerator, although no check engine lights, and the car drives ok. The exhaust sound is not as sharp nor screams as it used to.

I have mentioned this to the dealer, and they think it might be a personal perception, but of course offered me to take the car to the shop, which will I'll do soon (it's a bit far from home).

Before that, I'd like to know if any of you have experienced something like this. I can tell you even my wife has noticed it and said it doesn't sound and feel like a Porsche (I guess she meant "as the first rides" :-)

I put 98 gas here in Spain (the one recommended in Europe), in different gas stations, and put injectors cleaner in the tank once (I thought it was not necessary, since it is a new car, but I did it anyways). But no difference. Is like not enough gas injected or not enough air ingested. As I said, the car drives ok, but is like it was in "sport" mode and now is in "normal" or below mode (I do not have the sport chrono pack). So sometimes I wonder if the battery disconnection for the switch installation did some kind of reset on the engine computer :-). They also cleaned some glue of the factory protection from the body, and probably washed it (by the way, they provided me with a nice set of swirl marks). ¿Do you think they could be so careless to allow water to go in the intake too much? Well, I'm not an expert.

Alright, I would appreciate any comment on this before taking it to the dealer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

I have a question- did you adhere to the proper break-in period? In other words, did you keep the RPM's below 4,200 for the first 2,000 miles? Sounds like you are driving it pretty hard during the break-in.

This is probably not the issue for your current problem, but could be in the future. Also, if you have been bouncing off the rev-limiter, Porsche could void certain warranty repairs.

Never let the dealer wash your car!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a question- did you adhere to the proper break-in period? In other words, did you keep the RPM's below 4,200 for the first 2,000 miles? Sounds like you are driving it pretty hard during the break-in.

This is probably not the issue for your current problem, but could be in the future. Also, if you have been bouncing off the rev-limiter, Porsche could void certain warranty repairs.

Never let the dealer wash your car!

Thanks for the reply White987S. As for the break-in period, I'm strictly respecting it. No excursions above 4200 rpm at all (I bought the Porsche to keep it and take care of it for many years :-). I don't know if the guys at the shop abused it while testing the airbag switch (I hope not).

The car has about 1000 miles now. The thing is that even driving in low revs, 5th gear on mountain roads, the engine response was quite satisfactory with just a touch on the gas pedal. Now it is not the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your car sounds like my Wife's '99 Tip. If I haven't driven it in a while I notice the shifting is programmed for a much less agressive driver than myself. I have to drive it a bit before it remembers me and pics the shift points I like and revs higher in each gear before making a shift. I don't know what to think in your case with a manual trans. Good luck, keep us informed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi jmbarroso

I think that you should arrange a test drive of a demonstrator car from the Porsche dealership. This way you can immediately eliminate whether it is your mind or if there is an actual problem. Just give them a call and say that you want to do this at the time of dropping off your car.

I have been in your situation before for something similar and was absolutely sure about performance and noises but had to give in to it being a figment of my imagination. I would still swear blind that I was right at the time, however I don't notice any issues now.

As I said, the best judge is to try another car and then you may have evidence to substantiate your claim.

Hope all goes well

Stuey

Edited by stuey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
They also cleaned some glue of the factory protection from the body, and probably washed it (by the way, they provided me with a nice set of swirl marks). ¿Do you think they could be so careless to allow water to go in the intake too much? Well, I'm not an expert.

I had an issue with residue around the "Boxster S" badging of my new car. I asked the dealer to clean it. They had to remove the emblem in order to buff it properly (it's just a sticker). Well when I got it back it was like yours - swirls in Basalt Black paint. So I asked them to fix it and took it in again. They again removed the emblem and buffed and waxed the entire car (it was in their stock for a long time). Still not fixed. I think they may have damaged the clear coat though they tell me that would be unlikely. Anyway, I'm still waiting for them to finish their 3rd attempt. I told them just to repaint it.

The car is awesome though. I traded down from a 996TT with X50 (it's basically another mortgage every month) and it is really still a lot fun. You can step into it and let it rev with less anxiety and you can chuck it around like a toy. It is more entertaining in this way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think they may have damaged the clear coat though they tell me that would be unlikely. Anyway, I'm still waiting for them to finish their 3rd attempt. I told them just to repaint it.

Yes, the paintwork appears to be a failed subject in some dealers. Mine told me that they'd just hired a new paint team... I think I'm not brave enough to take the car and try them to fix the swirls. I'm completely sure they will end up ruining the paint. Since mine look like quite light (the swirl marks) I think I'll made them disappear with careful polishing (we'll see).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I picked the car up today and they fixed the swirl marks. Looks great!

BUT, what a huge diff between the Boxster they loaned me and the S! I had it over the weekend and for two regular commutes. The loaner was a five speed. Now, the service advisor did tell me that the car had been essentially raped by some lady who had never driven a stick. Apparently she burnt it out in 3 hours and was calling them saying she was having it towed back 'cause it wouldn't move. They took it apart and the clutch fell to the floor. The car wreaked from burnt clutch.

Anyway, they replaced the clutch on it but it still shifted poorly relative to the S. Shorter throw but notchier and it either grabbed low in the RPMs and gagged its way forward or slipped until 1500 or so. The steering also felt damaged in that it felt like a front wheel drive with shot CV joints that ground when you turned more than 20 degrees.

However, it still sounded awesome and since it was well past 2000 miles I was able to rev it to a respectable 6000 rpm (still waiting to do that and more to mine :-). It drove well enough and if it wasn't so beaten would still be a great car I'm sure. Yes, the S does handle better but probably not sufficiently better to be the determining factor between the two.

But man was it nice to get back into mine. Biggest difference was really the shifting. It felt almost electric vs mechanical. It felt like I was sling-shotting from gear to gear. Smooth and clean.

I think the next car will be a GT3. I like the extra RPM range you can play with. I would perhaps miss the torque vs the Turbo though. Dreams. :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going back to the original post.....if the battery had been disconnected the engine would lose the throttle placement settings and the octane rating of the fuel. So once you restarted the car before it had learnt these the engine would misfire. The correct way after reconnecting the battery is to turn the iginition on without starting the car for about a minute. After this the car should be run at idle until the revs settle.

Edited by Nick_USA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Going back to the original post.....if the battery had been disconnected the engine would lose the throttle placement settings and the octane rating of the fuel. So once you restarted the car before it had learnt these the engine would misfire. The correct way after reconnecting the battery is to turn the iginition on without starting the car for about a minute. After this the car should be run at idle until the revs settle.

That really explains some things! Should I repeat the battery disconnection-reconnection process?, or it should have learnt the correct settings by now? I usually do not wait that long before startup.

And doesn't misfire negatively affect the catalytic converters, getting some unburnt fuel into them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it is ok now then leave it alone..... just bear it in mind if you ever disconnect the battery in the future.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same feeling of loss of power on my 05 987, took it to the dealer and they said its maybe mi imagination, as they checked the car and everything is fine, but after reading this post, did the ingniton on for 1 minute thing and started the car, now i dont feel that loss of power anymore, is this normal or is there something wrong with the program or something??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright! Now we're already 3 with too much imagination :) . Can't be. There must be something, subtle, but real. I accidentaly did more than 1 minute ignition without starting (I was playing with the speed limit setting). After that I felt the car was running better :huh: . This was before Nick_USA pointed out the problem with the battery disconnection. When he mentioned it, I though it could be a good explanation. I still think there could be a software problem (I'm a software developer :)... ), but it is still difficult to assert.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I still think there could be a software problem (I'm a software developer :)... ),

you're no software developer. A real software developer would have come to the conlusion that it is a hardware problem.

:cheers: :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
you're no software developer. A real software developer would have come to the conlusion that it is a hardware problem.

:cheers: :lol:

You're right, man, what I was thinking of ! As a matter of fact, I was going to blame Windows, but I don't know what kind of o.s. these ecu's run :lol:

I hope it is not such kind of problems, but hey, they could just release a patch!

Seriously, I heard than Mercedes-Benz for instance is having many problems in their cars related with the software.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.