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All DIY Tutorial Activity
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I found this and it is a great info on how one can remove door panel on the Panamera. This vid shows details on what to watch out for, what to do. If you find yourself wanting to replace any of the switches on the doors, get behind he panel, this vid shows it all. Enjoy.
The cigar lighter and footwell accessory sockets in the Gen 2 are always live (I think this is also the case with Gen 1). This is great when using a battery conditioner (e.g. CTEK) as it means this can be connected via the cigar lighter. NB - The cigar socket is protected by 15A fuse whereas accessory sockets by 7.5A - You must always use the cigar socket for big loads (e.g. tyre compressor) and for charging. However, I am not sure how many others have the issue of having several accessories plugged into the accessory socket - in my case, a charging adaptor for phone; a Road Angel and a dash cam. Whilst all are in standby when not in use, I do not unplug them as it's a bind to unplug/plug in the blessed multi-way socket I use for all these adaptors; it also means the wiring, normally neatly concealed has a habit of coming out of its hiding places. What I do find is that the combined drain of these various devices, albeit in standby, contributes to the draining of the battery when left for any period of time. In an ideal world, the accessory socket(s) would be switched (ie turned on with ignition) and off when the ignition is off. Further, it would be helpful if the socket could then be turned on permanently should the need arise. I considered a couple of options. One could run a switched live from the fuse box situated in the drivers footwell (from fuse row C) and use a SPDT switch to select between this and permanent 12V supply, wiring this to the accessory outlet. In the end I elected to use a relay to switch the existing 12V supply and avoid changing the loading on any of the existing fused circuits, The relay is activated from a tap taken from an existing switched (Terminal 15) wire from behind the dash - I used the supply to the switch module for PASM, spoiler etc. as this is fairly straightforward to access. Given this is only used to activate the relay, the additional load is no more than around 120mA (relay coil impedance about 100 ohms). This is the circuit diagram. PLEASE NOTE that you should check any components you use as they may differ. I used a micro relay with a built in flyback protection diode - if you use a similar relay, these must be connected the correct way round. I also used an illuminated switch so again, ensure the pins are connected correctly for the LED to illuminate when switch is on. Relay: Pin 30 - Permanent 12V Pin 87 - Switched 12V Pin 86 - Coil+ Pin 85 - Coil- Switch Pin 1 - Permanent 12V Pin 2 - Accessory Pin 3 - LED Ground These are the installation steps I followed. 1. Remove the accessory socket panel from passenger footwell. My car is a convertible so its a bit different to coupe. On the convertible the screw is hidden behind the vaned plasix insert which you have to unclip first. Undo the screw and you can then unplug the accessory socket from the cable harness. 2. I drilled and filed out a 20mm hole ready to accept a toggle switch. 3. To get access to the cable harness for the PASM, Spolier, Sport Mode switch module, you have to remove the passenger and driver side trim panels. On the passenger side, remove 2 torx 20 screws. On the drivers side there is a little carpeted piece which is unscrewed first (the torx 25 screw is hidden in the carpet trim so poke around with finger to find it. Once this piece is removed, the trim can be undone (2 torx 20 screws). The side panel trims can now be removed by pulling/pushing forward. These side panel trims are a fiddle to remove as the front edges are retained by clips. Be gentle and patient when removing these. 4. Once removed the trims you have access to the clips that retain the switch module. 5. Depress these clips and the module can be withdrawn. There is also a little clip on the top of the switch module which has to be pushed down a bit to fully remove the module. You now have access to the plug to the switch module and can unplug it. 6. I next turned my attention to the relay. I fashioned a little bracket from a bit of bendy metal strip I had laying around. The relay is secured using a cable tie. I also put a bit of rubber strip on the bracket just to avoid squeeks etc. 7. My chosen position for the relay. I drilled a small hole in the plastic cage and secured using a self tapping screw. Note the cable tie securing the relay to the bracket. There are other options for installing the relay. Make sure your chosen location does not get in the way of the side panel or other bits. 7. 8. The next step is where we start to do more invasive surgery. As a precaution I removed the fuses to the circuits I was doing surgery on. Fuse 8 on row A feeds the accessory socket and Fuse 8 on Row C feeds the button module. The switched (Term 15) supply I am using is on pin 3 of the button module and is supplied via Red/Grey wire. Be really careful here as there are also Grey/Red wires. You need the RED/GREY on PIN 3. I removed the red case bit of the plug (cut the little cable tie) in order to make life a bit easier. I cut the RED/GREY and tapped the wire (using a bullet connector) adding a tap wire (yellow in pictures). I then put the plug back in the casing and re secured using a new cable tie. I looped the yellow wire through the cable tie to give a bit of strain relieve. 9. Next I cut off the plug to the accessory socket and attached female bullet connectors to the ends. Be careful here as the loom cable is not very long and you wil need to get access to the cut ends to crimp on the female bullet receptacles. The RED/BLACK cable is permanent live. 10. I now fashioned a wiring loom to connect everything up and installed this in place. I removed the relay to make connecting it up easier (which is why relay is dangling in footwell in one of the pictures). 11. Now it is a case of putting everything back together. Put the side panel trims back in first. Again, can be a bit of a fiddle to get them lined up, but do not force anything, when they are lined up right they will slide in and clip in place. Secure them using the torx screws. Put in the little carpeted piece on drivers side. Put back the accessory socket panel. Be careful regarding placement of cables. On Cabrio, be careful not to end up with cables going into the air duct move them to the right where the accessory socket and its plug go. Do not be rough, everything should go into place without force. Dont forget to clip in the vaned insert (Cabrio). 12. Job Done. When toggle switch is in the Off position, the accessories are powered when ignition is on. Can override this by flipping switch to on position.
The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engine) and also rust your radiators once the debris gets wet. By adding mesh to the standard grill, using gutter guards for rain gutters, you can reduce the amount of debris which can enter your grill. This is a simple process and adds not only functional value, but I think it looks pretty great too. For me it took roughly 4 hours to access, clean the radiators and air intakes, and add the mesh to my front grills(not including painting the grills). Parts you'll need: • Gutter Guard (this is the same stuff you use for rain gutters on a house to keep leaves and junk from building up in the gutter) - Buy two sheets of this. • High gloss, black spray paint • Tiny black zip ties - nothing too thick, but don't go too wimpy either. You'll need about 4 zip ties. Tools you'll need: • Torx set • Vacuum • Aluminum shears • Wet rag and soap to wipe down the air intake duct which is likely dirty. I won't cover how to remove the front bumper, as that's available widely across Youtube, Renntech, and other DIY sites. Here's the Youtube video I used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=280&v=X2q54XtupVo). So we'll get started with this tutorial once you have the front bumper cover removed. 1. The first step is to remove the grills which are held in place with 4 plastic tabs and pull out from the inside of the front bumper cover. This is fairly straight forward – just be sure to follow the general rule of not trying to force anything! Use the images below to help. From this image, you can see 4 plastic tabs are used to secure the grill in place, while 3 tabs on top are flat and just used to align the grill. 2. With the grills out, it’s time to trace them on paper so you can cut your mesh correctly. I used a big sheet of painters drop paper, which I’ll later use when painting the grills, to trace around the whole perimeter of the grill piece. It’s important to trace around the whole piece rather than just the vent portion, because the grill is rounded and so the mesh will need to bend in order to make this a tight fit. If your mesh is too small debris will be able to make it past your grill. 3. Now it’s time to cut your gutter guard. Using the metal shears, cut the mesh to match the outline you traced in step 2. I found it easy to use a box knife to score and transfer the tracing from the paper to the gutter guard (since the gutter is painted, you just use the box knife to score the paint). Your cuts don’t need to be perfect. Mine aren’t rounded, but you’ll see that they still create a great seal for stopping junk. 4. This next step is optional, though it makes a big difference in terms of looks! I painted by grills. There’s nothing fancy you need to do when painting them. I applied three coats of paint just to ensure it was solid. Let them dry for at least a day or two or else the paint will easily chip. 5. The next step is to cut a whole out for the outside temp sensor which is sticks through the left grill (when looking at the car head on). Before cutting the hole for the sensor, be sure to test out your mesh by holding it against and fitting it (bending it to form) with the respective grill it’s for. This doesn’t need to be an exact science, and in this case it’s always better to cut less and test it rather than cut too much. I determined where the hole needed to be cut by holding the fitted mesh against the grill and scoring the part of the mesh which aligned with the hole on the grill. I cut a small rectangle that is about a half inch, or in my case three snips of the mesh. I probably couldn’t gone a bit smaller, but you can’t really notice. 6. Next step is to adhere the mesh to the grill. I did this a bit differently than others have since I didn’t’ want the mesh to be permanently attached to the grill. I used small black zip ties which aren’t visible when viewing the car but hold the mesh securely in place and allow it to be replaced if they become damaged or a future owner doesn’t want them. In the picture below you can see I used 4 zip ties for each grill. Two on the very bottom which help support the mesh from sliding down, and two at the very top which help the mesh from being pushed back into the intake duct. 7. The most difficult part of reassembly is aligning the outside temp sensor with the hole you made. Prior to having mesh installed this was simple because you could just put your fingers in the grill and guide it. There’s no trick to this, just take your time aligning it as you put the bumper panel back on. It doesn’t need to be aligned perfectly since you can use needle nose pliers to adjust it after the bumper panel is in place.
This is probably the easiest mod you can do for the car. I am actually surprised it came out really nice. You end up having a nice Porsche logo projected on the ground, directly below the doors, as you enter the car. Total cost was $28 dollars shipped, and maybe 5 minutes of time to install. Enjoy.
Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed.
Before you install new bearing into the knuckle, it is recommended you repack the grease. Why? The oem grease is about 200˚F. Repacking with high pressure and high temp (800˚F - CV-2), will ensure max protection. This will be part of my diy for replacing bearing, but making this separate in case folks do on their own too.
I believe it's a fairly common issue, but granted that I've only been around these Cayennes for a short while. Failure modes: 1-Unable to release latch to tilt seat-back forward, failure to unlatch. 2-Seat latch fails to secure seat-back in the upright position, failure to latch For me, I was running into failure mode #2. When pushing the seat-back up it would not latch no matter how hard I tried. I sourced a new-used replacement from ebay. The parts between 955 and 957 are interchangeable. Unsure about 958. Tools required: -torx bit/driver/key, T20 I believe, or T25 -triple square bit, I forget the size but can update later -wrench that fits triple square bit, I used a ratchet with a 13mm socket Step 1: Remove two torx screws, T20 I believe. The first screw is partially hidden by the latch lever, pivot the lever and remove the screw. The second screw is installed from the side, in the opening of the plastic latch cover. The plastic on my cover had cracked around where the screw was inserted, so it is shown here after removal. The entire plastic cover assembly is now free and is removed by sliding up along the same axis as the first screw. If you are experiencing failure mode 1, at this point you should inspect your plastic cover assembly. It is possible that three tabs on the lever can break off as shown here. If this is the case, you simply need to replace that part and not the entire latch. The latch assembly is held on by two triple-square screws which are visible once the plastic cover is removed. Remove these screws and the latch will be come loose. Then there is a plastic clip that holds the upholstery to an edge of the latch, shown front and center in this photo, that simply pulls off. The latch, removed from the seat back. Here is the top of the latch, this cup with the three slots corresponds to the latch handle that should have three tabs. Another option for failure mode #1 is that the latch itself had a broken component, there is a 2-prong fork that should cover the front and back side of this post, as you can see the rear prong is broken off. That post is connected to the cup, which the lever is assembled to. So when you pull back on the lever to release the seat back, it turns the cup, and rotates the post against the fork, which releases the latch. In my circumstance it seems as if it was a 2-part problem. My fork was broken, but when I purchased the truck my problem was failure mode #2, not being able to latch it. My theory is that the broken part of the fork lodged itself into the latch and prevented it from securing properly. Next, reassemble with new or used parts that are not broken. It's pretty self explanatory here with the exception of lining up the plastic cover/lever assembly. You need to pull the lever as if you were disengaging the latch, and then feed the plastic cover assembly down ensuring that the round 3-prong section aligns with the 3-slot cup. I have heard that there is some adjustment you can do with the post that this latch connects to, the post mounted into the chassis itself. Adjustment here, if it does exist, would move it slightly so that the latch would travel further over the post and enable it to latch. Upon testing my new latch worked fine so I didn't explore this option. Finally, you want to keep that latch working well. From now on when you want to release the seat-back, first push the seat-back back and then while holding it pull the lever to release. This puts far less strain on the release mechanism and will prolong it's life.
If you buy your car pre owned, or if it went into limp mode, or you just think you have some quirks in it, one way to diagnose or pd if you have issues, is to try reset the PDK itself. The car learns driver habits over time. After a few years, a new owner may have different driving style, and this reset will help the new owner get car into factory condition, so it can learn new owner habits and hopefully be a better experience for the new driver. Below pic is from Porsche, and gives 4 steps on how to reset PDK to factory mode. Good luck. Hope it helps someone here.
I did not bother to do a DIY for oil change, because there are some vids out there on how to perform this work. Below is a link to one of these videos, will walk you through the complete oil change. Items I used: - Oil: Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W40 - purchased 10 quarts, will use about 9 or so - Oil Filter: Mahle OX 254 D4 - replace this part every time - Drain plug: 900 219 020 31 - if you are gentle and do not screw up the hex hole in the plug, you can re use the plug. Be gentle, get proper tools (8mm hex/allen wrench) - Drain plug gasket: 900 123 106 30 - put in a new one with every oil change. If oil starts leaking here, you will waste an hour or two to replace just this part, plug oil cost. All for $0.50 savings. There are magnetic oil drain plugs out there. I may try one at some point to see how much metallic particulate collects on it. Not today though. Below is a video for complete oil change. After oil change, make sure to reset the oil change service interval, by following instructions in this DIY - Durametric users. Thanks. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwHgrbN5TaM
I hate tutorials where people just post a list of instructions... I can read, but I like pictures better. I have attached the Porsche instructions for reference. This is an easy repair in terms of technical difficulty but the physical difficulty is up there unless you have arms & hands the size of a 5-year old. You will never see the upper bolt until it falls out. You will see that I have remove the counter-weights from the shift lever - this is not necessary for the starter removal - I just did it for weight and feel. Here you go...
A quick intro before the info on the window. October 12, Friday I loaded up my trailer and headed to the panhandle to provide hurricane relief in Panama Florida with a group out of Tampa called Compassion Kind who needed a trailer to haul all of their goods to the panama. While in Panama City Beach my vehicle locked itself with the keys inside and the vehicle running. After realizing it was not feasible to get a police officer to lend a Slim Jim or have him open the vehicle since they were doing search and rescue for survivors and also no pop a lock people were available I decided to break what I thought was the cheapest window on the vehicle the rear right quarter window (last window on the right side of the vehicle). After 10 smacks of a hammer in the middle of the window someone suggested hitting it in the lower corner, after doing so it finally shattered. We were able to unlock the vehicle by opening a back door at that point. So I taped it up with a piece of cardboard and duck tape and drove home. October 16, The following Tuesday I contacted my local Porsche dealer only to find out that the part was $650 and would have to be shipped from Germany since they did not have it locally. I think called a few junk yards and found one here in Tampa (Partsmart) that had the part second hand and would sell it for $75. I bought it and proceeded to remove and replace the old window. At first I thought it was just going to be the glass but as it turns out the c pillar accent is part of it and it is also connected to the trim that goes around the top of all the windows. In order to remove the glass you have to loosen the inside panels all the way around. You have to completely remove the panels that are above the lower portion of the window. When removing these panels you have to be careful because some of them use clips and others use screws (a combination of torx and metric bolts).
Here is something that I think will help many here. One of the maintenance tasks I did was replacing coils and plugs. Easy enough. After replacing the parts, and while tightening the eTorx ignition coil bolts (aluminum), I was not careful and snapped bolt on cylinder 3. BTW, its 3ft/lbs +90˚ (but with SMALL wrench, not 3/8) Since coils sit there pretty well, I left it as is until I got the bolt and had time to remove/replace (I do have some tips for removing the snapped part of the bolt - really easy actually - will post in another thread). Anyways, today was the day. I removed the covers, exposed wires, removed all bolts, then pulled on the ignition coil #3. Would not budge initially. Applied more force, and started wiggling. Eventually coil started moving and popped up. To my surprise, only the coil came up, the rubber boot got stuck on the ceramic part of spark plug. It is not coming out. Used needle nose pliers to lift it. Nope. Used a 90K sharp tool to poke hole in boot to lift - Nope as well. Twisted. Rotated. Pushed. Pulled. Prayed. Nothing worked. Contemplated torching. Good thing did not do this one..lol. Then, thought, why not think like a spark plug? What if a rubber boot got stuck on me? How would it get stuck on me? What would cause that? Once stuck, what would work if I was in a tight space? Then it hit me. Need something to lubricate the rubber to help ease rubber off the plug. To put the lube between plug and boot, I would need something to separate them. So while looking in my junk drawer of tool box, found a used metal band clamp, with a thin long end. Perfect to slide into the plug hole, right next to the plug ceramic, and try separate the rubber. Took the band out, flattened out and with a little lube, managed to separate one area, removed, inserted again just a bit over to one side, so I can separate another bit. Continued for a little until I thought I have decent amount of rubber separated and lubed (thought about 75% around the circle). Grabbed my small and long needle nose pliers, pulled on the rubber, and the whole thing came up without any effort at all. Total job after I got the idea - about 5 minutes. Before that, I watched videos, and many showed all kinds of fancy bits/sockets, made tools, to try budge the rubber. Typical job about 3 hours. I am sure glad I thought of this and want to pass on to others, so they don't waste 3 hours of their life, trying to move a small piece of black rubber out of a small hole. Good luck and let me know what you think or if you have additional comments.
After doing some work on my PTT, i put this DIY together to help others replace their own shocks. Ended up replacing both front shocks. Then, one of replaced shocks was not working. Once I figured that out (info about how to diagnose is in the air suspension info thread), company overnighted another replacement (I pre paid, and they refund money afterwards -takes about 2 weeks after they get shock back). Doing first shock replacement took about 4 hours with pics, breaks, etc. Doing subsequent shock replacements (other side and replace of defective shock), took about 1.5 hrs including wheel attach. My advice, do not be intimidated. Not difficult. Keep your eyes on the prize - new car with new suspension working perfect. Then do the job. You will enjoy lots of money saved. People take their cars to dealer to have this done, have posted bills of $9000 plus tax for replacing front air shocks. My price for doing this myself: - $375 for driver shock (pre paid 525, got refund $150 on used core charge) - $375 for passenger shock (again pre paid 525 and got 10 back after I sent old core back) - $120 for valve block (decided to replace as Durametric does not have capability to test individual valves to see which is broken or not. - About 12 hours of time spread over few days (you can do the whole thing in one weekend no problem - one day). Of course, my time included taking pics, organizing things, doing troubleshooting so I can have proper write up about air suspension (separate thread - search for air suspension info), etc. Your time will be likely about 8 to 10 hours max, since you already have this all laid out to follow. Money wise, I spent $870. Compared to $9000 bill, that is $8,130 SAVINGS!!! - Before tax! Think what you can do with that money!! Of course, if you feel you have too much after DIY, you can paypal me some - I will not complain. REPLACEMENT PARTS I USED: Rebuild Master Tech shocks. Look online, make sure you get the proper year and model and side you need. Not sure if there are other vendors doing this. Cayennes used to have Arnott, but checking I did not see any Panamera air shocks. OTHER INFO: While you are doing this work, it is good to think ahead, if you need any other work that will save lots of time, if done at same time as air shock replacement. - Upper control arms (see my DIY) - if you have clunking over bumps, these are likely culprits - Lower control arms (see my DIY) - if you have clunking these can be reason too - Sway bar bushings - if you have squeaking coming from car over bumps these are likely the reason. You can lube them to see if helps, but once all this stuff is being worked on, bushings are just a small addition - Other brake jobs, etc in the area. Do not rush, take time to do correctly. Hope this helps you fine folks. Follow each pic as it is numbered. Last pic has hardware torque info.
If your car is making clunking, squeaking noises while going over bumps, it is very likely that your upper and/or lower control arm bushings are damaged. It is very hard to determine if upper control arms are damaged, because the bushings are mounted in such way, which prevents inspection (bolts/chassis are in the way of visual inspection). Rest assured, if you are clunking over bumps, and your upper control arms are more than 60k miles old, it is time to replace them. Some have reported these arms damaged even before 60k miles. Once you determine it is the upper control arms, this DIY will give you steps to do this at home, and save some good $$$. You can get some good beverage with all the savings you do, by doing the work yourself. Follow each step in order, each picture contains description of the process. I recommend you read the entire thread, to ensure you understand the whole process, and estimate time involvement. First time replacing the upper control arm? I estimate it will take you about 4 hours per side. Subsequent replacements will be significantly shorter, about 1.5 hours per side (then you will be an expert). Take your time, dont rush, put some nice music on in the garage, and stay with it. Do not panic and complete the whole job. You can do this no problem! Good luck and enjoy the hundreds you will save on the job. REPLACEMENT PART INFO: My replacement part: Lemfoerder (Porsche OEM supplier). Upper control arm Part No: 970 341 051 10 Part cost estimate: $230-$260/side . Part includes nuts for ball joint, side bolt nuts (2) Now, on to the DIY:
1999 Carrera Tiptronic oil pan leak and fix About six months ago I noticed the transmission pan was wet with ATF. Wrongly assuming the gasket was leaking, I changed the gasket and filler round seal and while I had the sump off changed the filter too. Torqued everything to spec and filled her up. Everything running smoothly. Three months later the transmission started to slip. Had a look underneath and the pan was wet again. Cleaned it up so it was totally dry. Took the car for a short run and left it overnight. Next day the pan was dry around the sides but wet between the drain plug and filler hole. Wanting to isolate the leak I dried the pan again and taped blotting paper around the drain plug and another around the filler hole. Took the car for a short run and left it overnight. Next day the drain plug paper was dry and the filler hole paper was wet but touching the inside of the filler hole I could not detect any fluid. To pinpoint the leak I cut a 50mm hole (size of filler hole) in the blotting paper and taped it around the filler hole. I then stuffed paper into the filler hole and taped that up making sure that the two pieces were not touching. Took the car for a short run and left it overnight. Next day the paper around the hole was wet and the paper in the hole was dry. Finally, I knew where the leak was coming from. Not wanting to spend over AU$1,000 on a new oil pan, I ran some JB Weld over the join between the filler hole and pan. (See photo) It has been 3 months since the fix and the pan is still dry. I have also applied 80 Nm of torque to open and close the filler hole plug and this has not cracked the JB Weld seal. I hope this info will help anyone with a similar leak. 1999 Carrera Tiptronic oil pan leak and fix.pdf
I bought all of the parts on Ebay for A$10 or around US$7. very easy to install and it works well. This was done on an Australian spec. RHD 996 Carrera 2, I"m assuming the US and Euro models have the same amplifier with the stock radio/CD. Parts were bought on Ebay. 1] A small Bluetooth receiver. 2] A 3 metre 3.5mm Audio cable. 3] A splitter to convert the two outlets on the side of the amp. to a single stereo audio cable. Connect the splitter to the amp. which is located in the front luggage compartment, run the cable into the cabin, I drilled a small hole to the left of the battery compartment and ran the cable through a rubber grommet sealed with silicone. Positioned the Bluetooth receiver beside the steering column under the dash but where it can be reached for recharging. The signal is broadcast using the AUX setting on the stock radio.