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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    Item 16 is 3 nuts per side that the muffler (mounting bracket on the muffler) to the mounting bracket on the car. Item 19 is 2 bolts per side that hold the mounting bracket to the chassis. When I remove the mufflers I just remove the 3 (per side) nuts 16. I have never seen any damage on these.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    It depends how much. Top bar of the readout flashing? Or worse? Removing the oil filter and replacing will take out an amount to fix a small overfill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  8. 1 point
    Probably not, the stalk functions as a momentary contact switch, if the mirror selector switch is on/off in two of the four positions, that would cause the OBC to continuously cycle in those position. You are also going to either purchase a premade aftermarket wiring harnesses for the cluster to function with either a dash switch or with the fourth stalk, or make up your own. Fabing your own is going to require finding specific size pin connectors to match the connectors already in the dash. VW used to carry them. It is much cleaner to use the fourth stalk, which can actually added without taking the column apart, or simply source the four stalk multifunctional switch and replace the three stalk. We have done several of these, but always replaced the multifunction switch with the four stalk version to retain the clean factory look to the conversion. If your dash displays the outside temp, the system is active.
  9. 1 point
    Just get your car's option code list and check the codes against the master list here:
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Porsche has gone rather stiff necked about adding options post delivery. If memory serves, you have to have the clock, and pay Porsche to recode the car as having both. Most dealers seem to charge the exact amount you would have laid out to have it as a factory option. Not a pretty situation, but then you are dealing with Porsche...…...
  12. 1 point
    Hi, I just picked up a used 2008 Cayenne VR6 and am getting the P0441 code. I think this means I need to replace the purge valve. I looked through the DIY, etc, but it appears most of that info is for the V8 and Turbo models. Can someone please tell me the location of the canister purge valve on the VR6 Cayenne? As an aside, I just replaced the transmission valve body, so can answer questions about that job if there are any. Thanks much!
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Disconnected the solenoid and never looked back! Put a cutoff rubber glove finger over the socket and plug if you’re worried about dirt and grime getting in there. Now enjoy the sound all the time.
  16. 1 point
    The exact model and year of your car is always helpful.
  17. 1 point
    New member here. This is a great site with loads of useful information, so thank you! I recently bought my dream car, finally, a 2007 997.1 turbo with Tip with 27k. Long story short, I bought the car and had it serviced right before winter. However, after the service which included an oil change, code P0021 came up for the first time. I took it back to the dealer and they cleared the code and told me this happens at times after an oil change. I drove the car for a few more weeks until the weather changed and the CEL light never returned, until yesterday. Again, because of the weather, the car has been sitting for a few months and I just took the car out. It ran perfect all-day long. Then the very next morning, I take the car out and about 5 min into the drive the CEL light comes on with "Visit your local shop" or something to that affect. My OBD reader indicates Code: P0021 - camshaft position over-advanced bank 2. 1 - Should I clear the code and see if the code returns, or should I have someone look further into it? 2 - I was going to clear the code and see if it comes back like previously noted by the dealer but wanted to acquire some more experienced thoughts on this. Car seems to run, idle, and drive perfectly fine. Any thoughts or guidance on what to do next would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for you guidance!
  18. 1 point
    To my knowledge, Porsche did not use that measurement as spec on these engines. Instead, they had specs for overall valve length from tip to tip as 110.1 +/- 0.1MM on the intakes and 109+/- 0.1MM on the exhausts, and installed valve spring heights on valves that passed the overall spec at 36.7 +/- 0.3MM intakes and 35.7 +/- 0.3MM exhausts as measured from the spring seat to the bottom of the spring retainer.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    READ the Lost Radio Code FAQ... Try 6789
  21. 1 point
    There is a clear plastic line that goes from the battery vent to the underside of the car. Not sure that I remember any others.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Pelican Parts sells a book called "101 Projects" which shows in detail many servicing tasks in detail. pelicanparts.com.
  24. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech Porsche discontinued printed service manual more than ten years ago, so copies are hard to come by. The only decent and current "online" manual I know of is Porsches PIWIS TSI system, which is pricey. A decent print manual is the Bentley Boxster manual. Good luck.
  25. 1 point
    Tape...find the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector. That means it is not connected to anything. Originally the brown ground wire was connected to the radio chassis. Now what you want to do is disconnect the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector so it is not touching anything.
  26. 1 point
    You can drain some oil by simply dropping the oil filter and draining the canister. A lot better than trying to control the flow from the drain plug. And yes ^^^ these cars are very sensitive to over fill. Maybe contact the "Porsche shop" that overfilled your oil and ask them to do it.
  27. 1 point
    I think Jose is meaning the hex nut inside the car under the headliner that is holding on the anchor plate. You can see the anchor plate and the bolt that goes inside the car in my second photo at the top. I can't recall the size of the allen/hex key (it was 12 years ago, amazingly), but I do remember it was large. Depends on your hand size (!), but it was probably about the thickness of my little finger. Greg
  28. 1 point
    Unless your fault code is exactly the same as the original poster you are likely just guessing. Best to get a Porsche fault code reader and see what your fault code(s) are.
  29. 1 point
    No joy, fitted new button and now fully working!
  30. 1 point
    The rain, the battery running down, battery cables, kill switches, fuses, relays, DME, Immobilizer, Key RFID, etc None of that had anything to do with it Shortly after I bought the car I installed a traqmate system, including a traqmate USB to control the cameras and data acquisition. That system had been in the car for nearly a year prior including 2 or 3 event weekends with no symptoms whatsoever. There was a pin on the traqmate usb labeled 5v with the input analog pins. The documentation. Is poor, so I hooked up 5v off the obdii port after having found you can get 5v off of there (I don't remember how that was determined, probably internet) I eventually had to buy a street car to have a known good reference. She showed up late last week and was keen to success. After checking things back and forth between the street car and the Spec Boxster, including triple checking the DME. I decided some input to the DME must be wrong and is causing the DME not to let the car start. So I wrote out all 88 pins and made a chart and one by one probed each signal in the street car, and then did the same in the spec boxster. After probing all the signals between the street car and spb I noticed only a couple differences, one was the software voltage pin which only connects to the obdii port. Street car was 0v, spb 5v. Also the durametric could talk to both dmes, but on the spb, all live data was defaults and voltage was 0v, regardless of the DME, while on the street car with both DMEs I got live data. I went home and thought about where the 5v could have come from, and I remembered the traqmate usb had a 5v pin. I also remember sourcing that 5v from the OBDII connector as that is what I had found online to do. My spidy senses were tingling -- was I on to something? About midnight last night, I found some documentation online on the old traqmate system. It wasn't very good, but I could see a photo of the pins labeled on the USB box and blew up the picture. , It wasn't clear, but it looked like 5v was an output Not an input!!! I had figured at the time that the 5v was needed for the analog data acquisition, not the other way around. Surely it couldn't be that simple. After a sleepless night I ran out to the shop this morning, unconnected the traqmate usb And she fired right up Motherf@cker!!! I think the 5v put the dme into some sort of program mode or something, disabling its ability to start the car. Why did jumping it work without battery? I think once you got 14v, the 5v wasn't high enough to put it in the program mode... I also think that once you get running, the DME just does its thing -- OR, the Boxster's alternator put out 14v, and once again the 5v input was read as a low, not an assert. Further complicating the matter was the small fuse box that was added for accessories that I had tapped off of for the traqmate 12v hookup is janky, and I don't think it has a good internal connection. That's getting yanked and a new, and more accessible unit will be installed. Just diabolical.... Now I have to put it all back together and get my medical done and sign up for NOLA. Thank you very much to all who supported my efforts and responded to my posts -- especially Ahsai. If nothing else, the moral support allowed me to just keep plodding along.
  31. 1 point
    19 ft. lbs. is correct, as is +120 degrees (updated in 2002). Be sure to use new bolts (they are single use only), and apply ARP Ultra Torque lube to threads and under the bolt heads.
  32. 1 point
    As I understand it, a PDK transmission requires both a transmission fluid change and clutch fluid change. The clutch fluid change needs to be carried out twice as often as the transmission fluid. If your problem is not software-related, I'd hazard a guess at a clutch fluid change being necessary. Odd that a Porsche dealer would state that a clunking PDK was "fine and normal" !
  33. 1 point
    Here's a good video showing how to do this:
  34. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech We see a lot of cars that are anywhere from slightly overfilled to way overfilled with oil. These engine’s do not appreciate this and can respond by occasional smoke outbreaks. We always keep our customer’s cars 1-2 bars below the top line, and every car that passes through the shop gets their crankcase vacuum level checked; if the show more than 5 inches of water when fully warmed up, they are a candidate for a new AOS, which can also cause the infamous Porsche smokescreen.
  35. 1 point
    Having wasted too much time determining what could be done to replace the Becker CDR23 in my 2004 Boxster 986S I have decided to provide a comprehensive document which may be helpful to others. I am currently an automotive engineer, but previously I was an audio engineer, so I understand both sides of this equation. Becker CDR23 Replacement.pdf
  36. 1 point
    Thanks again to all of those contributors that helped me while I went through this upgrade. This topic appears to be a common one and one that doesn't appear to have a complete solution for contending with the MOST bus. Hopefully my DIY will help owners with the MOST bus successfully upgrade their factory stereo system as I have with mine. Also note that the wiring and process described should work with any system (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.), not just the AVIC D3 as the signal requirements and factory harness wiring is detailed here. Also note that this upgrade also covers the iPod interface, Sirius satellite radio and Bluetooth module install. Good luck! 03_04_Boxster_AVIC_D3_Radio_Upgrade.pdf
  37. 1 point
    Hi All, I'm new here, but found this thread very helpful. I thought I would sign-up and share my experience. My 2009 Cayenne V6 (left hand drive) has been blowing cold air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side for the past 2 years. All passenger side vents (center right, far right near the door, and rear center right) would blow the same warm air not matter what. With summer coming up, I thought I better revisit this issue. After reading a bunch of forums on this issue, I came to the conclusion that - 1) I have the 2 zone A/C system (meaning I have less flap motors than the 4 zone) 2) it seemed to me that the front, right mixing flap was the issue. I began by taking off the lower passenger panel - its 1 screw and the glove box and a piece of triangular trim on the passenger side of the centre console (it just pops off). Once those were off, I could see 2 flap motors. One was right where the lower panel was and easily accessible - it was attached to a white plastic arm that it moved back and forth. I turned the car on and played with all the A/C setting and could see that that motor was working - it moved the white plastic arm back and forth.... (note, when I turned on the car, there were a bunch of dash warnings including low oil pressure - they went away once everything was back together) The other motor I could see was not as accessible. It was more towards the center and higher up. It was to the right side of the nav screen, inside the dash... I could only assume that had to be the front, right mixing flap. I decided to take a shot and changing it. I ordered: 1) 7L0-907-511-AL front, right mixing flap (10) - from Volkswagen. This is the equivalent Touareg part. 2) this ratcheting screwdriver tool: http://www.amazon.com/03044A-4-Drive-Mini-size-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464195744&sr=8-1&keywords=Neiko+03044A+1%2F4-Drive+Mini-Size The flap motor only has 3 screws.. they were tough to get out. It took me about 1-1.5 hours to unscrew those 3 screws... most of the time was spent finding the right position to unscrew the screws.... and there was not a lot of room to turn the ratcheting screwdriver (a regular screwdriver would 100% not work). So once I would get the torx bit to connect with the screw..I had to unscrew very slow (shallow turns) and often drop the screwdriver. Annoying... and frustrating.. but keep at it. Getting the new motor back in was a bit easier and I had figured out the best position to deal with each of the 3 screws. Make sure the motor connect properly to the white piece that it controls. putting the new motor in was probably about 30min max. I put back the trim piece, glove box and lower panel and turned one the car... and cold air was blowing out of all vents! Glad that is dealt with!.. I almost have no problems with my Cayenne now... I suspect the rear hatch struts are due to fail next!
  38. 1 point
    Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence. More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:
  39. 1 point
    Normal. Flat 6 design. A puff of smoke, on cold start-up, that quickly clears, is n o r m a l.
  40. 1 point
    I just completed installing wireless charging pads for my smartphone and wanted to do a write-up to share with you guys. Requirements / Baseline: I use my smartphone quite a bit for navigation in the car and wanted a seamless, hard-wired solution for it to be charging while being used (GPS use sucks up a lot of juice) Even when not using GPS, I wanted to be able to dock the phone and not have to fiddle with a cord I had to plug in each time. Docking should mean charging, with zero effort. I am constantly picking it up and taking photos or talking etc. and plugging/unplugging each time proved to be a huge hassle (which prompted this whole project in the first place). Here are the parts I ordered: Proclip vent mount. ProClip Center Mount*-*ProClip USA Proclip universal device mount (medium). Medium Universal Adjustable ProClip Holder T1*-*ProClip USA Dual USB cigarette lighter adapter. Amazon.com: iFlash Dual USB Car Lighter Charger Adapter with 3A Output - fast Heavy Duty Ouput - Black Color: Cell Phones & Accessories Aux twin power outlet (for hardwiring) Amazon.com: Custom Accessories 10242 Auxiliary Twin Power Outlet: Automotive QI wireless charging pad (mini) for phone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400562881904?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Random wire splitters, connectors, 18 gauge wire, zip ties, etc. Installation Notes: I am not covering the steps on how to install the Proclip vent mount - pretty straightforward. I wanted the whole setup to be modular. i.e., have the ability to swap out the charging pad later on for different voltage/design, swap out cables in case I go to a device that is not micro-USB, as well as have the ability to swap between 2A and 1A outlets on the USB charger socket. I wanted it all to be hardwired so I that I don’t have to fiddle with cables and plugging in each device each time I get in and out of the car. First, I spliced the cigarette lighter socket and juiced my dual aux input tray. Then I just tucked the dual outlet tray behind the center console Also, clearly, for this to work, your smartphone/tablet needs to support wireless or induction charging. Many of the modern devices do nowadays (except apple, cough cough), but in case they don’t here is a neat solution that I used on my old phone (Galaxy S4 mini): Qi Wireless Universal Charger Receiver Pad Coil with Micro USB Head for Samsung | eBay
  41. 1 point
    I decided to remove the rear seats out of my 2003 C4S and eventually build a shelf with doors, i.e. the RS kit (?) that was sold at one time. I would sure like to get my hands on the doors shown in this pix. Anyway, the purpose of this "mod" is to utilize the tear drop opening where the shoulder strap of the seat belt was anchored. My first thought was to just install a piece of painted sheet metal behind the opening, then I came up with the idea to make the opening an interior light. A friend of mine gave me a 12" square of 1/8" white plexi. It turns out that the backside of the opening isn't flat so I had to first cut out the shape on the band saw with about 3/8" over lap on the bottom of the opening and a fitted edge to the top of the opening. Then I heated the plastic so I could warp the plexi piece for fitment to the backside of the opening. Not slam dunk, it's trial and error to get the shape to lay down on the back side of the plastic piece. Naturally if you had a mirrored shaped block of wood you could just heat the plexi and drape it over your fixture. Also remember there's a left and right so it would take two fixtures. So I just heated and bent the plastic to make a pretty good fit. Note you have to be careful not to dent the plastic when it's hot with pliers or a Crescent wrench. I used a ViseGrip with wide jaws that are covered in leather. I think if you had 1/16" plexi it would work better than my 1/8", I might add that I used a red Magic Marker to fine tune the fit. It seems to me that the black Magic Marker really gets into the material and it's hard to remove even with lacquer thinner. Once I had the fit, I sanded the shiny plexi with 1200 wet or dry sand paper to remove the gloss. Then used black RTV silicone and glued the lens to the back of the Porsche upholstery. I bought a strip of white LED's that has a self adhesive back. I just stuck the strips directly to the car body. I haven't wired the lights up yet, however I did light them up, I'm very pleased with the look and the light. I'm thinking I might wire the LED's into theinterior door lights so I don't have to worry about a separate switch and leaving the lights on. If you wanted to get weird you can buy LED's that can change colors. Remotes are available to rotate the color of preference if that's your thing. FYI: You can get these LED strips on-line from superbrightled.com - P/N NFLS-NW30X3-WHT - Natural White. These LED's run on 12 volts so you don't need power pack, just 12 Volts to the strips. The strips come 19" long with 2 leads, I cut the strips down to 6 LED's per side,then soldered + and - leads to the other strip. The strips are polarity sensitive, but they're well marked.
  42. 1 point
    Removing and installing rear center panel 1.Removing rear roof trim panel. Grasp underneath the roof trim panel 1 at the side and, pulling in direction of arrow, carefully remove it from the cable clamps 2. 2. Remove sound absorbent film.3. Unscrew fastening nut 1 and remove seal 2. 4. Extend rear spoiler manually. Unscrew fastening screws 1 and remove rear centre panel 2 upwards until the electric plug connection can be released. 5. Insert a screwdriver from the side and release the locking tab Arrow A and pull off the connector. Removing auxiliary brake light in rear center panel1. Raise rear center panel away from the vehicle, release the electric connector using a small screwdriver A and unplug it.2. Turn the rear center panel over and set it down on a suitable protective base. 3. The auxiliary brake light is clipped into the rear center panel six times in total. Starting from the outside, put your finger through the openings in the rear center panel and release the clips from behind A. At the same time, release the clips from the front using the screwdriver B and pull the ends of the auxiliary brake light carefully out of the rear center panel. 4. Push the two locking mechanisms for the auxiliary brake light (center) together with a screwdriver and pull the brake light out of the rear center panel. Installation is the reverse.
  43. 1 point
    I did the oil change yesterday and it went perfectly. I thought I'd provide the information in this post that I consolidated from this and other forums for any others who are interested. Pics attached. Thanks to all those who provided this information. 1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily. 2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly. 3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin. 4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040. 5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily. 6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal. 7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter. 8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until if felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque. 9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place. 10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right). 11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch some drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres). 12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short (sorry for the poor pic but you'll get the idea). One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres. 13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks. 14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.
  44. 1 point
    The problem is most likely the headlight switch. Mine flickered or acted more like a strobe light when you turn it on. Try to do what I did. Pull out the switch to the fog light position, then slam it back in. This ensures a GOOD connection to start the lamp. The contacts get worn or dirty over time. I did this standing up just outside the car and with my right hand/palm. After doing this a couple of times... BAM, my light came on. I am pretty sure your lights will turn on. If so, R&R the switch.
  45. 1 point
    Install special order parts on top Bow; Rework Bow adjust fit of top, adjust frame to body fit. Part 987-561-927-00 F-kit felt strip. I have no problems with the top since this was done, no noise at all, and as it has been summer it has been up and down a lot of times. I should look to see exactly what it is they changed.
  46. 1 point
    Now let me say that this job was quite straightfoward, BUT I would suggest that you have a bit of experience in bearing fittting as well as presswork or you may really mess things up in a big way. You also need a ball joint service puller set, and yes you need ALL the tools in the kit. I got mine from OTC/ msc industrial supply cat #78453842. You will also need a way to make some mandrels for pressing the bearings in and out. And a way to heat the carrier to around 150 degrees. Now for the fun 1) jack up car and place on jackstands, remove front wheels 2) remove front plastic underpanel 3) have someone hold the brakes (hard) and remove the front large (1.25") axel nut, this is TIGHT 340 ft.lbs. so get ready for a fight. 4) with a brass or aluminium mandrel and a hammer tap, (ok smack), the drive shaft to dislodge it from the splines of the hub (don't mess up the threads!!!) 5)Remove the brake pads and the brake caliper (hex drive) tie it up in the wheel well out of the way 6)Remove the psm sensor, move it to the side (2 10mm nuts) 7)unbolt lower sway bar link 8)unbolt headlight sensor link 9)Remove the brake rotor 10) Remove tin brake shield (10mm bolts) 11) remove 18mm nut and press apart tie rod link with the tool 12) remove the 18mm nut and carefully use the tool to press apart the lower ball joint 13) Unbolt the clamp on the strut, then while pressing down on the lower arm slide the carrier off the strut and the front axel (gt2 remove axel-bearing retainer) and take to the bench 14) Now from the rear side carefully press the center hub out of the bearing, It will come apart with 1/2 the bearing attached to the center hub, it is TIGHT and will take a bit of force to remove it. Be careful NOT to hurt the carrier as it is $$$ if you break it 15) With a puller remove the center race(the part that was left on the shaft) from the hub, set aside 16) take off the 4- 13mm bolts and remove the bearing retainer plate from the carrier 17) HEAT (and DO NOT skip this step) the carrier to 100 deg,F and with a mandrel press/drive out the bearing from the carrier, again BE CAREFUL when suporting the carrier!!!! 18) Clean all parts. 19) Now the bearing is about a .0035 PRESS fit in the carrier, you CANNOT just press it in cold, you MUST heat the carrier to get it in, there are 2 methods to do this a) heat carrier to 100 deg F and using a mandrell that touches only the outer part of the bearing press in the new bearing B) set a inside micrometer to .004 over the bearing size, then heat the carrier to around 150 deg F, at this point check size with the mike to make SURE the carrier is over the size of the bearing and drop the bearing into the carrier, it will slip right in with no force at all, HOWEVER if you goof up and it sticks 1/2 way you are screwed. 20) Replace the bearing retainer plate with the 4 bolts, if yours has it the small notch goes to the bottom, its a water drain, torque the bolts, 27 ft lbs 21) Very carefully suporting the inner bearing race only,press in the wheel hub to the stop, be careful not to hurt your new bearing. WATCH what you press on!!!!! 22) assemble in reverse order, center 1.25 nut torques to 340 ft,lbs. 23) make sure to torque all bolts/nut to the correct values and double check all bolts.nuts before driving As you can see this bearing was SHOT, 26,000 miles and sounded like road noise, it did not respond to any tests like a bad bearing at all, so check your bearings!!! Thanks to Jeremy at Imagine Auto for the quick service and the tips, you guys are great !! Good luck !! Do this repair at your own risk, this diy is just provided as a general guide.
  47. 1 point
    I feel more comfortable having a fire extinguisher next to me, and I am surprised that it's not required in the US, unlike in some Europe nations. This DIY contains 3 different methods of attaching a fire extinguisher to the passenger seat of a non-motorized regular 996/Boxster seat. Other seats (e.g., motorized, GT3, sports, whatever) may be different. These seats come equiped with two tabs with holes to which you can attach a bracket that can hold an extinguisher. See the first picture. Ignore the drill chuck for now. The purpose of having an extinguishersin your car is to extingish *small* fires before they get worse. Do NOT expect to extinguish an engulfing fire with these 1 - 2 lbs units. Just stand back and look real sorry. There are different kinds of extinguishers. The most popular ones that are small enough to fit in your car are either powder extinguishers, Halon, or Halotron. Powder extinguishers are inexpensive (e.g., 10$ for a Kidde unit at most hardware stores), effective but they leave a terrible mess. The dammage caused by the corrosive powder may be worse than the fire they extinguish, especially in the passenger compartment. The Kidde units typically don't come with metal brackets which is a must for cars and also required by most clubs. Club rules may also require a minimum size (e.g., > 2 lbs). A better choice are the Halon and Halotron units. Unfortunately, production of Halon has been banned because they dammage the Ozone layer, though you can probably still find a few units (at a very high cost). The current replacements are the Halotron units, however, be aware that the Amerex 2.5 lbs Halotron bottles are a tad longer than their Halon counter parts (15 1/2" vs 14 3/8"). Amerex seems to be the preferred choice for car extinguishers. They also come with metal brackets. http://www.amerex-fire.com/products.html Amerex sells both red as chrome plated extinguishers. Shop around for best prices and be aware of hefty shipping costs! In the US, probably your best bet is to get the Brey Krause R-2020 bracket http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/r2020.php and attach your extinguisher to that. List price is around 110US$. See a typically installation in the next two pictures: Note however that he extinguisher sticks out a bit, and also note the clearance of the Halon bottle to the right. A Halotron bottle is almost 1"larger which means it will be a pretty tight fit. Seat movement seems to be unimpaired, and neither is seating. I was also warned to raise the seat to it highest position when installing the BK unit to releave tension in the spring. It's very hard to compress the seat-raise spring. I also had a look at how they installed an extinguisher in Europe (see next two pics). This particular example was held in place by a plastic strap. It's not the cleanest install, but it was the least obtrusive and visible. The final option that I am aware of is to buy the Porsche bracket (996 521 674 00, about 15US$, you need to go to the stz2 section in PET to find it). See next picture. I decided to go this route, and get the smallest Amerex Halotron fire extinguisher (again, be aware of the club rules). I had to make an adaptor plate from a piece of metal (I used a piece of 0.03" thick aircraft aluminum) to mate the Amerex bracket with the Porsche bracket: see next picture with all the pieces ligned up and assembled before I painted the plate black. The Porsche bracket had a tab sticking out that I flattened. The bad part of all this is attaching the P bracket to the seat and then the rest of the parts without removing the seat. The Porsche specs call for 5mm diameter bolts. However, the holes in the seat are smaller and either require you to drill out the holes or tap them (good luck trying to get a drill in there). The simplest route is to use 4 mm bolts and locking nuts (with a few washers) which you can purchase at most hardware stores. Nevertheless, accessing these bolts and nuts for the P bracket, and then attaching the plate and extinguisher bracket requires some acrobatics and creative use of swivel tools and other tools to put this together. I did tap (5mm .8 pict, see first picture) the center hole under the seat, but it really serves no purpose because the P bracket actually slide above the hole and so a bolt does no good. This is why the Brey Krause methods is significantly easier to install. Nevertheless, I am happy with the results. The unit is tucked away like in a European install.
  48. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. The switch is part number 996.613.155.00 A02 for a switch installed on the left side of the dash and 996.613.156.10.A05 for a switch installed on the right side of the dash. Like other dash switches it has a raised portion on one side. When you order the switch, ensure you specify which side you want the raised portion according to which side of the dash you are installing it into. These install procedures assume you will be placing the switch in the unused dash socket below the PSM switch on a RHD car. For LHD cars, the PSM switch is on the left side of the dash and the raised portion of the tail switch should also be on the left (as shown in the picture). For RHD cars, the PSM switch is on the right of the dash and the raised portion of the tail switch should also be on the right. Take care that you order the correct tail switch for your car. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996.613.155.00 A02 (or 996.613.156.10.A05) Spoiler Switch 5 ea Female connectors 5 feet (1 length) Connector cable 2 (3 inch length each) 14 gauge wire few Cable ties Tools you will need: Phillips head screw driver Blunt flat blade to prise the switch tab (I used a butter knife) Wire cutters Crimping tool Soldering ironRemove the cover from the fuse box. Then carefully remove the four screws pointed out in the picture. Ensure the screws do not fall into the fuses else you may start a fire! (The fusebox is located in the drivers side footwell.) Once the screws are removed, pull away the carpet trim around the fuse box. You will be cutting into the wiring loom connected to the existing spoiler (tail) switch. The switch is the black square item located in the bottom left corner of the fuse box. Note: The installation of the new in-dash tail switch does not effect operation of the existing spoiler (tail) switch. It is simply wired in parallel to it. I have used a mirror here to show you the back of the fuse box. Pull the connector from the switch. It has no clips but it may be quite hard to pull off. Be careful not to pull the wires out of the connector. DO NOT use a metal implement to pry it off. If you rock it from side to side while pulling, it will eventually come off the switch. Here you can see the connector pulled away from the switch. The connector has three wires: Green/black, Brown/Green and Brown. Carefully cut the 3 wires going to the connector. Ensure you do not short the wires as you cut them. Leave a long tail on the wires at the connector as you will need to splice them back later Use a blunt blade to carefully pry out the switch tab holding the PSM switch in the dash. I used alarm wire in a single cable. You need 3 cores in the cable and it needs to be about 5 feet long. Feed it through the opening for the PSM switch tab. You can see in the picture where you can feed it through the back. Push the wire through so that you can grab it from underneath the dash and feed it along within the dash to bring it out behind the fuse box. Carefully cut the 3 wires going to the connector. Ensure you do not short the wires as you cut them. Leave a long tail on the wires at the connector as you will need to splice them back later Fit the new tail switch into an unused slot. Usually the one below the PSM. Place the connectors as shown on the switch. Make a note of the colour coding you use and which switch terminals you put them on. I used red, brown and black wires in this configuration. Next you will wire up the tail switch light. Use two 14 gauge wires cut to about 3 inches. I used blue and brown wires. Strip both ends of the two wires. Crimp a female tag onto one end of each wire. Connect the tags on these wires to the two outer (remaining) tail switch tags. Pull off the connector from the back of the PSM switch. Insert the blue wire onto the left most PSM switch tag (blue/pink/brown connection wire). Insert the brown wire onto the top PSM switch tag (red/blue connection wire). Ensure the inserted wires are not shorting any other tags. Push the PSM connector back into place with the inserted wires. One way to do this is to cut the bare ended wires short and feed them through the tag holes before pushing the connector back on to the PSM switch. At the switch box end, feed a 1 inch piece of heat shrink sleeve onto each of the 3 exposed loom wires. Push the sleeves along to expose the bare wires. Pre-solder each end on all exposed 9 wire ends. Then solder the loom wires back together while at the same time splicing the new wires into the loom. The 9 wires comprise 3 from the original Spoiler (tail) switch connector, 3 in the loom that you cut from the tail connector and 3 that you have just wired in from your new tail switch. The wires are soldered as follows: red -> red/green black -> green/black brown -> brown Check the solder joints. Push the sleeving over the joints and use the soldering iron to heat the sleeving so that it shrinks around the solder joints. Ensure no strands of wires or solder is protruding from the sleeving. Refit the connector back to the original fuse box spoiler (tail) switch. It is important to tidy up your cabling. I used cable ties to ensure the cables don't rub on anything sharp. Before refitting the switch tab, test that your newly installed in-dash tail switch works. Also test that the switch light works when you turn your side lamps on (with ignition on of course). Finally, replace the switch tab in the dash, push the fuse box surround carpet back into place and replace the 4 screws. Job done.
  49. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1.5 liters Shell Transaxle (75W-90) or Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90) Approved Front Axle Oils 000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container 000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container 999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack Wrench for the fill plug Wrench for the drain plug 2 quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Draining Front Wheel Drive Oil Front Wheel Drive oil should be changed when the engine/transmission has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove underside panels to access the front wheel drive. Place oil collection pan under the front wheel drive (at least 4 quarts). Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Unscrew oil filler screw (A). Unscrew oil drain screw (B) and drain the front wheel drive oil. Wait about 20 minutes for all the old oil to drain. Fill Front Wheel Drive Oil Clean oil drain and oil filler screw. Screw in oil drain screw. Tightening torque: 21 ft-lb. (28 Nm) Fill with gear oil up to the bottom edge of the oil filler opening. Screw in oil filler screw. Tightening torque: 21 ft-lb.(28 Nm) Install underside panels. Front Wheel Drive Model/Capacity (approx.) 911 Carrera 4 - 1.5 liters Turbo - 1.2 liters
  50. 1 point
    Integrated Garage Door Opener DIY I got tired of forgetting to remove the garage door opener at Concours and getting points taken off, so I decided to integrate it into the center console. I got my inspiration from Kirby's Garage Door Opener DIY and added a few twists. I took the existing garage door opener from Genie and opened it up to use just the circuit board. This particular circuit board had lots of extra unused traces and holes that went back to were the switch was (probably for different enclosures), so I just picked 2 and ran about 5 feet of wire from each one. Then I put a little cap over the switch to prevent it from being pushed and wrapped the whole board in electrical tape. I wanted to put the circuit board transmitter as high in the car as possible to get the maximum sending range. I settled on putting the transmitter at the top of the drivers side A pillar, secured with some velcro. There is plenty of space under interior A pillar cover which goes over the transmitter with no problems. The 2 wires are run down the A pillar in the wire conduit that is there, and along the bottom of the drivers side of the dash to the center console. This arrangement gives me a 1.5 block range on the transmitter, which is further than I can see the house. The only downside to this arrangement is that you have to take off the A pillar cover to change the remote control battery. But this only need to be done every other year or more, so I don't think it is an issue. The parts that I used for the switch and its placement are from a 996 Targa. The batwing is called a Sole Switch Trim, P/N 996-552-335-01-01C and lists for $12.69. The Switch is called a Tip Switch, P/N 996-613-119-10-A05 and lists for 23.56. This switch is used to control the sunshade on the Targa. The plug blank is one I had laying around is probably under $5.00. Wiring the actual switch is pretty straight forward. There are 5 spades on the switch, 3 are used for the Garage Door Opener, and 2 are for the switch icon lighting. The 2 outboard vertical spades are for the lighting of the switch icon. Looking at the switch from the front, the spade on the left is the + lead, and the right spade is the - lead. I took lighting power from the seat heater switch lights. On those switches connector the brown wire is -, and the blue/red wire is +. The blue red wire is pigtailed between the 2 connectors, so that is the giveaway on it. I used inline cable splicers to connect the new leads. Back to the garage door switch, the center 3 spades are what are used for the wiring back to the remote control circuit board. The bottom horizontal spade is for one wire connection, and the 2 vertical spades above it are ganged together for the other wire connection. This way you can push the switch in either direction and the garage door remote will activate. So there you have it, another nice way to integrate your garage door opener into your 996. :) ONE LAST THING: Be sure to put in a fresh battery before you button up you work. A fresh battery can last 3-5 years under normal use! Otherwise, you may be opening up things much earlier to replace the battery.
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