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  1. Today
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  3. Strong work! Met my indy through PCA too.... can't even remember it's been so long, I think he did my first track inspection.
  4. Ok - tks again for the tip on an indy.... I ended up going to one I had actually been to before twice - but had forgotten about. Made the apt. last week for yesterday and the car was ready today at lunch. 2 new horns and 4 new drive axle boots and checked the oil. All good and the car was spick and span on pick up. Parts were im sure less than dealer and labor too - not a steal - but I wasn't expecting that anyway. Seems to be all good ( but I haven't looked at the boots though) and the horn works too..... Im pretty sure they'll be the go-to now - they've been around for awhile and they are long time local club participants and supporters. A no brainer to the dealer bs and drop off and we'll see if we can have it ready in 4 days... The indy was by no means looking for work either but, I think, may value a customer as much as a customer should value good work.
  5. Ok thanks again. I’ll continue to monitor for now and see if I can conclude where the problem is.
  6. I would try to find a good indy near you who has knowledge in Porsche (usually VW/Audi guys will do pretty well on this platform too since there is much overlap). I have learned my car inside and out and have the knowledge to do literally almost any job on this car. But I don't have the tools and quite honestly at this point I don't want to invest a lot of money in them when I have an indy who I know is better than 99% of dealer Porsche techs but only charges $100/hour, and he has all the tools in the world. Unless you want to spin wrenches professionally or just like to collect tools for fun, IMHO at this point of where cars are I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to invest a ton of money in specialized tools. I would love to have a SnapOn DTac because it's an amazing tool..........but odds are I will probably only need to use it once or twice more in my lifetime. I provide all parts and fluids (OE from Sunset) and he just does the labor. So in this sense my car is "dealer serviced" -- it's the exact same thing except you don't get your face ripped off by the Porsche dealer.
  7. Both procedures involve specialized tooling; draining and flushing the cooling system is not much different than most cars, there is a drain plug near the thermostat housing for the purpose. Flushing should be done with distilled water, and the new coolant should be premixed with distilled water before refilling the system, which is where a special tool comes into play. The correct way to refill the system with the fresh mix it by using a tool like the Uview Airlift to evacuate the system first, then pull the coolant in under vacuum. This totally eliminates any chance for dangerous air pockets to form in the system. The AC system is similar, you need a freon capture system (you cannot simply vent it to the atmosphere) to recover what is currently in the system, and then R134A manifold gauge set and a nitrogen cylinder to flush the system, followed by the application of high vacuum from a pump to remove both the nitrogen and any moisture in the system for a period of time, after which the system can be recharged to the correct level (Porsche has a temp/pressure chart) to get the system operational. Now here is the downside of these procedures: The Airlift tool will set you back over $100 and needs a high-capacity air compressor to operate it correctly. The AC will require a nitrogen cylinder with pressure regulator (about $60 for the regulator, the cylinder cost is a local rental), and the capture/recharge system is about $5K. Most Porsche shops have all the necessary hardware and would charge you far less than what you would need to equip yourself to get both jobs done correctly.
  8. I see no one has posted a response. So, in this case, I would kindly suggest booking an appointment at your nearest local Porsche dealer. They will have the highly specialized equipment, knowledge and expertise to deal with the AC service on your Porsche. This is not a DIY or backyard mechanic type of thing. Most people won't have the knowledge or answer to your questions because this is not in the normal realm of DIY.
  9. Not necessarily if there is an intermittent short somewhere in the harness. The FSM states that if the sensor and wiring check out, to replace the Tip control module.
  10. Thanks JFP. Wouldn't the continuity checks and resistance measured indicate that the harness and temperature sensor are ok? I was expecting the harness / temperature sensor to be the culprit when I started down this path based on the other posts that I have read about these issues, but the electrical checks appear to indicate that they are ok. I forgot to mention that driving/shifting have not been any different than normal...in case that is any indication of the control module itself.
  11. Last week
  12. DTC 0710 indicates an open circuit or short to ground in the transmission temperature sensor Normal faults are wiring on the sensor harness, the temp sensor itself, or the Tiptronic control module.
  13. 2000 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic, 115k mi. I am chasing a P0710 (DTC 37) error code (using Durametric). Consistent with the repair manual, I checked continuity and resistance on the appropriate pins at the transmission socket and at the ECU connector, all good. I checked ATF level, also good. As the repair manual states, the heater valve is always open (allowing coolant to flow to the ATF cooler). I confirmed mechanical operation of the heater valve by pulling the SAI vacuum hose off of the changeover switch (99660512301, now 7PP906270) and noting that the lever on the heater valve is operating. The changeover switch is pulling vacuum at completely cold start, confirmed at the nozzle on the changeover switch. I understand that the ECU should not be telling the changeover switch to allow vacuum to the heater valve because the temperature is ~25C at startup (with matching resistance measured at the pins ~1.05kohms). My question is...should I conclude that the changeover switch is malfunctioning or is there something else I should be looking for as a cause? I have read that these switches go bad on other vehicles, but have not seen anything specifically about 986's having this problem. Thanks for your help!
  14. I was out for a drive. It started to rain and my roof wouldn't go up. I had to manually put it up. When I got home I found the parking brake switch faulty. I replaced it and checked the fluid. The fluid was low so I topped it up. I tried to use the switches on the dash and the gear above me tries to move a little but that's all. If I extend the latch out and then hit the button it will fully close. But it still won't open. I hooked up my PIWIS to calibrate and I'm getting Function inactive, end position not reached. I metered the 3 micro switches in the latch and they are all testing fine. Any ideas what to do next?
  15. Hi Loren, My battery died, CDR-220 Type 4462 Serial X5021975 Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it! 🙂
  16. You could consider using a high quality oil like Driven DT40 with 5K mile OCIs. You can buy it at advance auto parts using coupons for the 10 packs (not single quarts), when it's available. It comes and goes, I stock up and check every few months if I need more. Like JFP is saying, one problem with running cheap oils even at short OCIs is they shear at high temperatures turning the oil into something closer to water than a lubricant.
  17. The refrigerant leak, mentioned in a previous post, appears to be in the evaporator, which will need to be replaced. I am interested in the following procedures: Procedure for completely draining the coolant from the cooling system. After the evaporator has been replaced, I would like to refill the cooling system with the latest version of the Porsche coolant and I would prefer not to mix it at all with the old coolant, even if it is also from Porsche Procedure for flushing the AC system with nitrogen after evaporator replacement , apply vacuum for checking for leaks and remove any fluid from the system Procedures as the ones described above are available online, but could somebody kindly provide links to existing procedures that are specific to the 996 and have been successfully used by Renntech members? Thanks
  18. Without physically seeing the entire engine, the answer to your first question would be a total guess. As to your second question; using crap oil, running the oil too long between changes. You should be running a high ZDDP content oil, changing it (and the filter) every 5-7K miles.
  19. I have a 2004 cayenne turbo and recently been having issues with my automatic lights. When I put the headlight switch to automatic, the headlights always come on, even in daylight. I ran a check on piwis and durametric and get the 1520 error for the rain/light sensor. I have cleared the error and it comes back as soon as the light switch is turned back on. I found a used rain/light sensor which I installed and still have the same problem. I also disconnected the sensor and turned the lights to the automatic setting and they come on without the sensor connected which I am not sure if that would happen anyway. I guess it is possible that the used sensor I got could also be bad. Is there a way to do a resistance check on the sensor. Are there other components in the system I should be checking as well. I did check the fuse and it is fine.
  20. I was going to use some fine sand paper but had a feeling that would be bad. So wanted to post it on here. I had a feeling that was the case. If I was to put in another set of cams it would probably mess those cams up. I guess i got no choice but to put these back in as is. How long do you think this motor will last with that scoring? How does that happen? To long of an oil change interval?
  21. Not really. As there are no removable bearing inserts in the cylinder hear or cam cover, they simply cannot be bored or honed to clean them up as that would make the assembled cam bores too large; same with the cams themselves.
  22. So I was looking at my camshaft and cylinder head and it appears to have some pretty bad scoring on them. attached pictures is there a way to clean these up? Or am I just putting them back in as is? Unfortunately?!?
  23. Thank You again Maurice. Well, this is the first week I've had time since the pandemic hit I had to turn wrenches on cars. Last summer the car was staying at a friend's house, as I stripped & painted our house. He let the battery die, it rolled down it's windows and got the floor boards flooded. New Control Unit x2 (I got a Spare coded to the car & a 2nd ECU too). So I got back into the Top and tracking down more water leaks. Sealed up the Rain Trays, they were full of holes. Also got the Top Aligned, Adjusted & working properly. However, the forward mounting stud on the Driver's side (behind the air intake boot) is tearing loose. 2 cracks in the sheet metal, 1 about 1/4" long, another about 1/2" long. Does anyone have any advice for reinforcing this area? I'm thinking welding a reinforcement plate @ 3" in diameter w/ a stud welded to it. Thoughts please.
  24. Squeeze the sides and pull. Be ready to buy another one if it has any age on it since it probably will crack.
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