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  1. Past hour
  2. Ps: unless you plan to turn off a few systems, the enthusiasts Durametric may be a better deal. It will for sure turn off your false air bag light. Or, check around, there may be someone around who will let you use their pro. Again, good luck.
  3. Agreed. Immobilizer likely trashed. Common problem with water under driver seat. Good luck.
  4. Today
  5. You did not read the Lost Radio Code FAQ... "CDR-23 (or later): These radios do not have a security code - that is, not that the user enters. These radios are security tested on the MOST (fiber optic bus) system to see if they are the "programmed" radio. The radios are programmed and recognized by the car’s DME and can only be replaced by a shop with a PST2 or PIWIS. These radios will not request a code when battery power is disconnected."
  6. I hope someone can help with my code. I replaced my battery and now the radio is asking for a code. Here's my info: BECKER TYPE CDR23 SER: 25011313 36/02 Thanks very much in advance. : D
  7. If the carpet behind the drivers seat is wet, then surely the carpet UNDER the drivers seat is wet, and that is where the immobilizer/alarm system is. If you can, remove the drivers seat (loosen floor bolts and tip it backwards) and get the immoblizer unit out. Dry it and place it in a canister of dry rice for several days. Remove the carpeting and get it dry. If you can, put a dehumdifier in the car and get it completely dry inside. Shop vac out moisture from the carpeting.
  8. I was caught in a rain storm while driving. Wrong turn and water got deep fast (Charleston SC, Common problem). Managed to keep going. The all wheel drive and Jeep experience helped. Car pushed through and never flooded. However the carpet behind the driver seat got wet. As soon as I exited the water the rear wing started going up and down. After getting home and higher ground the following systems started malfunctioning. It has been several weeks now. -The reverse lights will not come on therefore back up camera not working. -Neither the front hood or rear engine lids will open with door sill switches. The key fob will open front trunk. When jumped the switch still won't open front. Rear wing will not do anything and stuck in up position. At 75 mph fault light comes on. -Lock center of dash will not lock doors while in car. -Alarm will not arm. I'm going to purchase the Durametric (sp) pro this week. I Have checked all fuses and they are good. I'm in the process of a coil over upgrade from stock and have the computer and relay panel accessible in the rear of the car. I have tried leaving battery disconnected for a day. I have pulled number 40 fuse. None of this has changed anything. Any input as to what to test and where to start would be appreciated. I know several of the items are on the same circuit.
  9. all is said! it would be very interesting! thanks!
  10. Ahhhhhhhh, good point...no I don’t lock the car with the remote...could that be causing the 20 min charge time on a fully charged battery? Is there a way to verify this could be why I am seeing what I am seeing? Thanks
  11. the battery is renewed. however, the day after, the car had the same problem. wont started. Only can hear the click sound from the starter, but the car wasnt started. the funny thing is I release the e-brake, then pushed a little bit backward the car. and the car was started. I really have no idea about what I had done to make it started....... really stranger for me. after few days driving, check engine light was on twice, and also battery light was on twice. However, they all gone the next day. Driving is good right now. dont seems anything strange. I dont run the scanner yet. but I can tell there should be some codes, because the time it wont started.
  12. Do you lock the car with the remote ? This is necessary to get the systems into sleep mode after some time, for minimum power consumption.
  13. Ok. Need help. Rebuild is done. Need code. CDR-220 Model: 4462 Sreial: Y5051984 Thanks ahead of time.
  14. Actually I had already purchased an OEM Porsche window regulator. I was not sure if having it installed or not, because the existing window regulator had been working reasonably well recently. But the glass was not dropping, when opening the door, and considering that the regulator lasted 20 years, I decided to have it replaced. The job was done by an independent Porsche mechanic today and everything is fine. Also the door lock was repaired. It was my intention to do the lock myself, but it proved to be too much of a job for me. Thanks for all the advice provided.
  15. Yesterday
  16. I apologize. Just need some help with this rig. And for the software side of things also.. Like with the stereo. I have a handful of little things I gotta put back to normal, like removing the Parrot Bluetooth that was installed, it's junk. And trying to find the front passenger footwell light wire harness, because I took out the glove box and kick panel and it's nowhere to be found.
  17. Any feedback would be appreciated folks...Today, full charge (showing on my trickle charger) , backed out, washed it, had doors open etc, drove back in, 20 min to fully recharge on 10 amp charger...Does that sound right or could there be an unwanted draw causing this?
  18. The order sounds correct to me. Check the spark plug for cracks (including hairline cracks).
  19. Loren and Jeff....Using the advice provided last year, I am still trying to solve the tapping sound of my 986S. In review here is a brief report. Car starts fine. I have NO CELs. On cold start, there is no tapping noise. Once started and engine temp is rising, tapping starts on the left side around 180 degrees and continues to become louder as the operating temp hits (210 degrees). Now, here is where I am in my investigation: I have taken a sample of oil and sent to LN for analysis. There were no issues to report. The report had all "green" areas. I was on the phone with a Porsche vendor who asked if I have Durmetric and have I checked the injectors? I borrowed an "ears" analyzer and I can confirm the ticking is coming from the #5 cylinder on the left side of engine when at OT. When cold, there is no sound, in fact both sides have no noise prior to OT. I went to my Durmetric and used the injector "defeat" feature. I tried all 6 cylinders and when I removed #5 from the circuit, the ticking sound stopped. When I placed it back in operation, the ticking began about 8 seconds later. Have I confirmed that the injector is failing? I plan to replace the plug, coil pack and the injector in that order. Am I thinking correctly here? Ed
  20. 99 Boxster. Does anyone have pictures of how the wiring repair kit needs to be installed/configured? I have the 000-043-206-06 for the passenger side but it's just wires, heatshrink, plugs and a connector but no instructions on how to install it. The TSB simply says to put x17 into pin B8. WTH does that mean? I am pretty well equipped when it comes to most things but this is just not enough of a description, or visual for that matter, for me to reasonably figure out.
  21. This is NOT a part to go cheap on. Only get a real OE Porsche window regulator. I have heard and read many stories about cheap window regulators breaking after less than a year, cables snapping, grinding and so on. No, you cannot finagle a way to tension the cables. It's a Porsche, pony up the cost of the OE Porsche window regulator and be done with this job. I do believe there is a company in Texas that you can send it to for a rebuild with much higher quality parts. I'll see if I can find that info. But you will have to wait out the shipping and rebuilding time.
  22. I bought a none genuine part as I needed it sorting In a hurry so the adjustment maybe different. The oem equivalent part has cable tensioning screws in bottom corners. I think porsche version uses some retaining clips that allow the cable to be adjusted either side of the drive gear. If it works leave it. My cable snapped just after I'd arrived at an airport at the start of a business trip.
  23. Hi! Is it at all possible to work out the code for me? I picked up the car a few days ago, it had had the battery changed and the original card is not with the docs. The info I can get from the display is... BECKER 1 TYPE 4467 SERIAL 15037311 24/99 Thank you 🙏🏻
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