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  1. Yesterday
  2. Porsche released a technical bulletin on this code, entitled "Complaint - Red Hybrid Warning Message Appears in the Instrument Cluster: Performing Guided Fault Finding Before Doing Any Other Work (106/19)", which cautions against making decisions on replacing the electric motor for this exact code until "As soon as at least one of the specified fault codes is stored as a passive fault in the fault memory, always perform guided fault finding using the PIWIS Tester before doing any other work in order to avoid incorrect repairs – in particular, replacing the electric motor unnecessarily."
  3. Antifreeze is a lot like oil, it has an additive package that controls pH, inhibits corrosion, and lowers the surface tension of the mixture. And like oil, these additive packages break down over time and exposure to heat and metal surfaces, which is why the term "lifetime" antifreeze is a joke. The pH of antifreeze solutions will buffer at a slightly basic pH, over time as the additive's break down, the pH range will shift to slightly acidic, which is not good, particularly in light alloy castings like most modern engines. pH and refractometer freeze points are typica
  4. Great explanation, I understand now. One thing I wanted to ask you is that many coolants come premixed these days with the water so you just add it as-is, no need to mix with water in a specified ratio. So you know when you put it in the ratio is spot on. What is causing that ratio not to stay stable over time? Also just to be sure I understand, the pH test is an alternative to the refractometer, correct? In other words you did either or, not both. Not sure if it's true but I read that using the pH strips is what you use for propylene glycol (check for pH under 7 indicating ac
  5. On the bottom right side, you can see the zero C line (your unit is calibrated in C, you can also get them in F, which is more convenient): When a drop of pure water is placed on the prism, the blue line would be at the 32 F degree line, meaning the test fluid will freeze at that temp. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze would put the blue line around -50 to -60F. Note you have two antifreeze scales, one for ethylene glycol, the other for propylene glycol based coolants, so you need to know which type you are using to get the correct scale value.
  6. I just looked up the coolant refractometer. I had never seen that before. Looks like it can test maple syrup sugar content too, wild (don't worry, I won't use the same device 😛). The following picture is what I believe you see. What value range are you checking for? Also should I think of measuring the pH level an alternative to using a refractometer? What pH level would be equivalent to the specified ethylene or propylene glycol level?
  7. I have a 2015 Cayenne S E-hybrid with 70.000 miles. The check engine warning light came on the other day.. Everything was still working fine. I took the car to the Porsche dealer and the found that the problem is with the electric engine. The error code is P0A4200, which is malfunction of the electric motor rotor position sensor. The tried reprogramming the engine with new software, but that did not help. Now they say the whole electric engine needs to be replaced even though it is just the sensor not working. The cost of this will be around USD 10.000 (here in Norway). Apart from
  8. Get a coolant refractometer, uses one drop of fluid and is deadly accurate. Amazon sells them for around $20 or so, and you can get pH test strips for a few bucks for a jar holding 20-30 that also only need one drop. You don't always need zillion dollar tools to do the job correctly. 😉
  9. Thank you. Didn't mean to drive this thread off topic but I just had to ask because some of your posts have caused me to think about things in a way that have subsequently allowed me to make important discoveries. I am effectively mirroring what you your shop does. Coolant freeze point pH is a good one, I'll add that to my list. Thanks
  10. We would also visually inspect several things, like the brakes for thin pads, worn rotors, etc.; freeze point pH and clarity of the coolant; moisture level in the brake fluid, wiper blade condition and washer fluid level, oil level and condition, any fluid leakage (oil, coolant, power steering, brakes), abnormal tire tread wear and tread depth, exterior light functions (do they all work), and signs of physical damage like dents or rust on the lines under the car or the exhaust system. All this takes just a few moments to do, but can prevent the owners from getting stranded or stopped because
  11. Yes, I definitely agree. If it's a serious vacuum leak on my vehicle it usually results in a CEL for oil pressure and/or the AFR being too lean. You have mentioned before that for every car that came through your shop you did this vacuum test and I know you also load tested batteries (which is a common practice among good shops, at least the ones I know). Is there anything else you had on your "list" each time a car rolled through aside from these two things?
  12. If you had any pronounced vacuum leaks, your air/fuel ratios would go haywire, and eventually your computer would reach the end of its enrichment capability, both of which would trigger codes.
  13. Awesome, thank you. I have read several "reviews" that test this exact digital manometer you have against both a professional field unit as well as the U-type liquid unit and they all said it gives results that are both very accurate and precise. I'm going to buy another oil cap for my car and do this for fun one day when I'm bored. The idea would be to also do it every 6 months/5K miles/whatever going forward to see how the unit performs over time. Obviously you want to be sure you don't have any vacuum leaks that would "pollute" the reading -- in my case, don't think I have any as I have
  14. Your photo happens to be the exact digital manometer I use, bought off of Amazon for about $35-40 at the time. Only one tube needs to be connected the the vacuum source, the other functions as an atmospheric pressure reference that you are measuring the vacuum level against. I also used a Porsche oil fill cap, but did it a bit more elegant than the one in your photo; I purchased brass barbed bulkhead fittings of Amazon and use O-rings on each side to seal it. As every car out there has an oil fill cap, you can make up as many vehicle specific testers as you need. To test, you need to first
  15. An FYI, it turned out that the air/oil separator needed to be replaced. The key thing to look for, when the whistle is occurring, you are unable to remove the oil fill cap due to high vacuum. Total price at an independent was slightly over $500.
  16. Hey JPF, I wanted to know more about how you tested the cars that passed through your shop. Did you use a digital manometer? I have never used one before but wanted to try it. It looks like you just need to hook it up to the vacuum line somewhere (can use oil tube for example if you can seal the connection) to have to be part of the pressure system for the crankcase. When I look at images of the device it looks like it has two hose inputs as opposed to a traditional analog vacuum pressure gauge which only has one hose tube. Would you put both of those hose lines into the sealed
  17. Last week
  18. Welcome to RennTech Couple of possibles: (1) A wiring issue causing the heaters to malfunction. (2) The reflash itself. A lot of people have experienced all sorts of weird DME issues after getting aftermarket reflashes done as these systems are quite often set up to try to eek out small power gains by trying to trick the basic DME engine control functions, everything from strange codes to blocking connection to the OBD II port. Returning the vehicle to the factory DME flash put an end to the problems.
  19. 2009 C4S Cabriolet with Sharkwerks/EVOMS ECU flash and Fabspeed headers/cats has a persistent CEL with codes P0031, 37 51 & 57: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1 (P0031) Low Bank 2 Sensor 2 (P0037) Low Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0051)' Low Bank 2 Sensor 2 (P0057) Both pairs of upstream and downstream 02 sensors have been replaced and the CEL codes erased, but the same CEL codes pop up at the next startup. Any ideas on the source of the errors and the fix!?
  20. thankyou for the fast reply! 0643 worked like a charm! you are the man- 😃
  21. I just got my first 996 (01 turbo) and when i changed the battery my radio said it needed a code. type 4362 ser; 15030852
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