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  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. Hi @Rick150So after some troubleshooting, I found the dredded corroded wire syndrome near the battery - all the spliced connections have some corrosion. In total there are 5 pairs of wires. I haven't yet repaired them but wondered if you could let me know which wires do which function ? There are several large black wires all connected together but I think brown is ground on this car, not black?
  4. Place an OHM meter from the wire to the stud, there should be less than 2 OHMS. Unbolt the Ground nut and clean with a 3M pad or if you don't have one use pot scouring plastic pad, don't use sand paper as it leaves small practicals embedded in the soft copper or tin. Get a manual from www.usomanutenzione.it for your model Cayenne. I will continue to look through about the 12,500 pages and I don't keep a record of what I sent you. Most likely a connector or Ground issue.
  5. Loren, thank you very much. I just found out a few minutes ago that my long-time Porsche mechanic, who is moving out of CA, is actually still here and has renewed his license for a few more months. I will have my car towed to him early next week. He is a good guy, and I trust him. I'll report back. Thank you again!
  6. Yesterday
  7. P1539 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 P1324 Timing Chain out of Position, Bank 2 - Above Upper Limit/Below Lower Limit P1313 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Emission Relevant P1314 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant P1315 Misfire, Cylinder 3, Emission Relevant P1316 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Emission Relevant P1317 Misfire, Cylinder 5, Emission Relevant P1318 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Emission Relevant P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant You should stop driving (or even starting the car) and get it to a Porsche specialty shop. Your timing chain has jumped and it could cause major damage just by running the engine.
  8. Hello Everyone. I have a 1999 Porsche Boxster base, runs like brand new. - The other day, my new indie mechanic performed a major service including all spark plugs; also inspected fault code P0455 (evap leak) and replaced the Fuel Sending Unit as the cause. He gave my some recommended repairs. - 12 days later, my car passed its Smog Test, thus so far so good. - Next day, I needed an unexpected Fuel Pump replacement (whining sound coming from the front, which others have reported on this forum in the past); throttle was also cleaned out. - One week later, he performed a few of the recommended repairs: Bank 1 Cam Cover leaking (onto floor) with a visual check of the Guide Rails (discolored but looked ok); right rear inner and outer CV Boot torn; and Coolant bleeder valve leaking.Note that Bank 2 Cam Cover is also leaking, but no onto floor, so we decided to hold-off replacing seals and gaskets. Everything seems fine driving home. The next morning, mechanic calls me and asks me to bring my car to him, so he can "triple-check" things (first time a mechanic has asked me to do this). As I am driving to him, my CEL comes on. Once at the mechanic, he gets Fault Codes P1539,1324, 1316 thru 1319. I am supposed to return to this mechanic in a few days for inspection of this issue. Does anyone have an idea why I suddenly got all of these codes? I am thinking it cannot be a coincidence. I am thinking these fault codes were somehow caused by the mechanic's recent work on my car. (I read a reply from Loren on 4-9-2010, where he mentioned replacing spark plugs incorrectly could be a cause for faults P1316 thru P1319.) Thank you for any thoughts.
  9. Yes, I do understand, it's pretty much the same here in NY, but with a $450 threshold. Thinking I might just be better off finding a reliable local shop willing to perform just the work necessary to clean up the codes. Thanks again, Jeff
  10. Thank you @Rick150. How do you actually test a ground point please? Also do you have the other part lf the previous wiring diagram I attached please? Many thanks
  11. Could be 'ground' problems, terminal MB40 for the Rear Comfort Systems Control Unit is near the right tail light which includes Lid actuator etc. There are many brown (BRN) that go to the body. Also another (MB41) near left tail light. Ground for some rear relays (MB23) on left side of dash. These ground terminations also service other electronics and it could be why your instrument light flickers. The Cayenne multiple grounds through the galvanised welded body to provide a low resistance path, should just one of these have resistance go high the electronics can do wearied things. Most electronics seeing anything other than a few ohms can read it as something else and get confused. Included are 'Ground Bonding' locations to check. 'Connector locations' in case you have a corrosion issue. 'Main Wiring Harness' routing.
  12. Just be sure you understand the complete rules on waivers. In PA, the published repair waiver cost threshold is $150. That said, the actual rules are a lot more complicated as only emissions devices (EVAP, PCV, catalytic converters, etc.) equipment (no labor) are covered; fails caused by cam timing devices are not part of the waivers program and would not be considered applicable. The shop doing the inspection has to put their butts on the line by stating what is causing the failure(s) and the testing equipment has to transmit confirming data to the state system via a direct data link or the waiver fails. The shop also has to certify that there are no non factory modifications to the vehicle, and that all the covered systems are OEM and not aftermarket. That opens a can of worms as the state auditor can require you to show them the vehicle involved. If they don’t agree with the shop’s assessments, they can pull your certification on the spot. Net result is that very few repair cost waivers ever get issued, for obvious reasons.
  13. You should be able to activate both systems with a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric or the all mighty PIWIS system. If that doesn’t work, you need to start looking at your harnesses........
  14. I have an 08 TT cab. that has been running great with no issues. Recently my spoiler would raise properly but not retract. I checked the bottom of the rams and did have leaking fluid although not enough (yet) to leak into the engine compartment. I choose to remove the hydraulics and install a Renn Kit electric after market "e-ram" system. Everything is installed correctly but still have the same problem- spoiler won't retract. I do get the dash warning lights and the manual button on my center console stays lit. When I reboot the system by locking and starting the car the wing retracts and all is good- until I reach 75 mph. My mechanic ran a diagnostic and can get the spoiler both up and down when hooked into the under dash port. Coincidently, I can remember my fan turning on automatically when parked after a spirited drive but about same time as spoiler issue, I haven't heard it kick on. Is there a simple text to see that its working correctly? Want to say that I'm pretty certain that the wiring harness on the Renn Kit is installed correctly. All other lights and electronic things work fine. Wondering if I have a wiring issue of some kind. Just moved to Bay Area and have heard of rodent damage to car wiring. Any feedback would be helpful
  15. No, of course not. But I'm not looking for anyone to let things slide. Rather, I'm simply looking for an honest inspection station that will fail me, perform some actual related work (to a $ limit) and then fail me again if necessary, in order to issue a perfectly legal DMV waiver. Appreciate all the info you've provided... Jeff
  16. Last week
  17. @Rick150, do you happen to have the rest of this diagram please and how the rear comfort unit connects to the front of the vehicle? I have done some extensive troubleshooting but still cannot locate the fault. The switch in the drivers door has voltage and the swotch itself is fine so I expect the problem lies between the front control units and the rear but I don't know where the cables are run to see whether there is a break somewhere i.e.under the transmission tunnel/centre console or the passenger footwells - do you know this information? Clearly there is power going to the rear tailgate and soft close unit as both are functional when the button on the tailgate is depressed. So I am running out of options. Any ideas what or where I should test next? The only other observation is that, despite replacing the battery for a brand new battery, the instrument panel seems dim and flickers, is this a sign of a malfunction or battery drain somewhere? Many thanks for all your help!
  18. P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Incorrect main charge signal - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Mechanical fault in injection valves - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck leaking - Leaks in exhaust system - EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open) - EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults P0011 - Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 – Signal Implausible Incorrect camshaft timing Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system Continuous oil flow to VarioCam piston chamber Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open) Failing cam position sensor There is no way they are going to let this slide and risk their license. Most likely, the 2187 is caused by the 0011 fault. That is not a "vacuum leak" issue, it is a mechanical or electrical fault with the variable cam timing control on bank 1.
  19. Hi JFP, A nearby shop found these codes: 507, 2187 (x2), P0011 and a turbocharger overboost (don't have the code handy). I’ve since installed my own OBD scanner (today) and have so far gotten 2187 (2x) and P0011 (pending), but the CEL is already lit up even before all monitors have had enough time to reset as "emission ready," so I have NO "window of opportunity." Had other repair work performed in the last couple of months when mechanic advised of multiple vacuum leaks -- would have to pull intake manifold, looking at lots of work to be done. I'm simply not financially able to proceed with all that at this time (contrary to what I've done in the past), and likely selling once I move, so just trying to get through the year. Thanks, Jeff
  20. Welcome to RennTech Why not find out why you are getting the MIL lamp and fix it? What code(s) are you getting? It may not even cost the $450...………..
  21. Hi All, Anyone know of a NYS inspection station around Long Island willing to write a DMV Waiver? My 2004 955 CTT will NOT pass (have OBD scanner, CEL turns on before all monitors are even ready!). Moving onto the city in six months, and I will likely sell her then; unable to do major repairs, but I need to be on the road for the time being. Very frustrating. I’ve been to a couple of my local stations, and they absolutely refuse to issue a waiver, claiming they’ll be audited asap if they do. I’m not asking for anything illegal, and I’m willing to pay the $450 or so to attempt some work as required to satisfy NYS. Help, anyone? Inspection expires end of this month (Feb ’20), so ANY suggestions sincerely appreciated. Thanks so much, Jeff
  22. Hello, do you recall which wire this is? Or do you have a wiring diagram handy? Thanks!
  23. I have a 2006 Porsche Cayenne twin turbo. Repaired cooling pipe o-rings some broken vacuum lines in the very frail disconnect fittings. Seemed as if everything was good.. got in the car in the morning turn the key and heard a light tapping. Open the hood and it's coming from passenger side valve cover. As I was standing there the tapping got louder it louder real quickly. As I tried to turn it off it made a loud clunk. This is a noise that it terrifies people that work on engines or at least have the basic understanding. I remove the valve covers got the crate to TDC firing in the timing looks good with one came down in one came at an angle the driver side bake. Put on the passenger side Bank neither cams are where they should be. That's where I'm at right now.
  24. Have a 99 996 convertible top issue. Had hydraulic cylinders replaced and tech forgot to attach potentiometer to cylinder arm. Top would only actuate half way then stop. Checked potentiometer actuation and found not registering top movement. Replaced potentiometer and and was able to get the top going again for one cycle. Then just stopped working again. Checked all microswitch pid data and confirmed latch is registering as well as side flaps and wing lid locking. However potentiometer for wing lid is saying always closed. Removed wing lid motor and set potentiometer to 6.2k ohms(not at computer at the moment and cant remember if spec was 5.2 or 6.2 but set it to spec). Went through the rest procedure with latch and motor. Still registers as only closed and nothing is working and getting timeout code 5. Question is, could the potentiometer for wing lid just happen to fail after installing new potentiometer for top? If so does anyone have an extra laying around they would like to sell? Thanks for any help. You guys rock.
  25. As i remember was a triple square 12. its not a torx. different tool kit.
  26. Hi there, I lost my code. Can someone help me ? Porsche CR-21 ( Becker ) Model : BE 2180 Serial : W5010279 Many thanks
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