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All DIY Tutorial Activity

Showing tutorials posted in for the last 365 days.

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  2. Only the best for her. As anyone who has ever done their oil change knows, the oil comes DUMPING out. It gets everywhere no matter how careful you are. Well, there's a solution for that: a small box with the bottom opened up! Now there's no splashing anymore!
  3. Convertible clamshell not seating all the down when the top is down. It’s just a ¼” from seating all the way down. My issue was one of the plastic flaps that rises out from under the calm shell on each side. The flap under the clam shell that rises from under the clam shell did not completely fold out flat for the clam shell to seat properly on top of it. I placed the top in service position. The front edge of the top 12”-15” from the front windshield. The clam shell should be partially raised at this point so you can gain access to the rear top guide tension cables. Unattached each guide cable from the ball joint on each side. Just pull them or gently pry them off with a flat head screwdriver. The cable seats in a socket. Then fold the rear portion of top over forward so that you have room to look under the calm shell to see the flaps. (Do not operate the top with the cables detached). To place the top in service mode I referenced, 61-10 of 2012 Robert Bently Publishers Porsche 911 Carrera service manual. If you have a difficult time looking under the flap. I recommend taking pictures with your camera phone on each side. Then compare each side to see which one may be out of alignment. I discovered one of my flaps was not seated properly in the slot. It only took a gentle pull to slip the flap into the slot. You will know what I am talking about when you look under the plastic flaps that are located forward under clam shells.
  4. This forum has helped me resolve issues with my 911. I would now like to contribute to this forum in reference to changing the gearbox ATF to 1999 Porsche 911 Carrera 996 Cabrio. When I drained the ATF, I did not measure how much oil I drained out of the gearbox at the time. So, when I filled the gearbox with oil, I did not put enough oil in even though the oil was draining out of the fill port indicating that I filled it correctly. The issues I had. The transmission was shifting slowly between gears 1-3 during cold start up only. After the engine reached operating temperature 180 the gearbox shifted fine. It would only take a few minutes for the engine to reach operating temperature. I found it hard to believe that Porsche would intentionally design gearbox that way to heat up to operating temperature before shifting properly considering Germany tends to be cooler most of the year. Solution, I warmed up the gearbox, driving around for 10-15 minutes. I then jacked the car evenly and opened the ATF fill port while the car was running. To my surprise no oil was coming out the fill port. I was able to add another liter of ATF. This solved my issue immediately. I recommend viewing Pelican Parts video Porsche 996 Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Replacement (1999-2005 911) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLxPgIMiX-U if you are changing the ATF, filter, and gasket. I would ensure the gearbox is at operating temperature when filling and having the engine running while filling the gearbox with ATF. This worked for me. Do not forget to count the liters of oil you drained so you have a reference point when filing it. Suggestion when installing drain pan with gasket. Use plastic ties every other hole to align the gasket with the drain pan. Place some bolts in the holes that do not have the plastic ties in then cut and pull the plastic ties out. Place bolts in the holes where the plastic ties were.
  5. I drive a manual 2007 957 Cayenne S in the UK. Over the past year I have been getting occasional but increasingly frequent alarms whilst driving. The cabin lights come on and an open tailgate appears on the orange diagrammatic image of the Cayenne as depicted on the dashboard display. When locking the car, the cabin lights are not extinguished. Since the car is pretty basically specified (no power tailgate for example) it was easy to establish that the glass component to the tailgate was at fault. Opening then firmly closing the glass would reliably suppress the issue except that recently the fault has emerged again without provocation. Things came to a head last night when the alarm went off for no good reason. Time to act. The first thing I looked at was part #95562832004 but this only contains the switch that opens the glass tailgate and its associated wiring. The sensor detecting the open/close status of the glass tailgate is found in the main body of the tailgate adjacent to the latching point and lock of the glass tailgate. Whilst the sensor really cannot be accessed easily without stripping the trim from the back of the main tailgate and in all probability changing the locking mechanism of the glass tailgate, there is a D-clip connector carrying the wires to and from the sensor which is independent of the lock. Even better, the clip can be accessed without removing much trim. Best of all, disconnecting the clip means the system fails closed so the car cannot detect that the glass tailgate is ever open. No alarms, no irritating cabin lights when not desired. What is more, the glass tailgate opening switch and circuit remains unaffected. How to do it: 1) open the glass tailgate. If the switch below the rear windscreen hub isn’t working then it can be released manually. Open the main tailgate and prise open the 1x2 inch U shaped panel in the midline at the junction between plastic and carpet trim at the point closest to the glass tailgate locking apparatus. You can then push the metal tab with a flat headed screwdriver. See the video by U512TXS DIY on YouTube. 2) Using plastic trim tools, merely release the lozenge shaped plastic trim surrounding the glass tailgate latch. You don’t need to take off all the tailgate trim! My photos are too big to attach, annoyingly. 3) You will probably need a torch to identify the D clip as it will be lying in the dark void lateral to the glass tailgate lock. Using tweezers, forceps or long nosed pliers however you can bring the clip to the surface. 4) the D clip is a standard VW / Audi part. Squeeze it then pull back on the tab on the top part of the connector to release. That’s it! Replace the trim, close the glass tailgate then lock the car and watch the cabin lights gently extinguish. Ahhh! Peace at last.
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