jaded996

Ok I am having the exact same problem as the guy below with my 2002 targa. I just got the car back from a long stay at a body shop where it sat for months without being run that much. When i went to get the car it would not start, it tries, kinda starts then dies. The body shop guy said he had a guy come look at it and "tapped" the fuel filter and it started. he said it looked clogged. I am confused as i find out that the cars fuel filter is incorporated into the fuel pump.

I took the car, it drove and got home just fine. Made two stops and it started right up. I went to drive the car a week later and same problem no starting. The car just got a new battery and has had a new ignition switch put it.

It looks like this guys problem was the idol controll valve, but do 2002 and ups have that part? Any help would be appreciated. Since the car is low and has a kit it is not abel to be towed. I need to try and find a way to get it going to at least get to a shop to fix. I am decent with wrenches so i may be able to do a simple repair myself.

Car starting thread

Ok, I have a MY 99 996, six speed manual that has been my daily driver for most of it's life. My daily commute to work is around 80 miles but LA traffic has been so bad that I have been driving my automatic Land Rover instead. So I haven't driven the 996 in about a week. I started her up yesterday, Sunday, to pull her out of the garage into the drive way....no problems. Shut her off, spent some time giving her some much needed love washing and waxing, then I start her up. :jump: No problems drive her 10 feet into the garage and shut her off. I was looking forward to driving her to work, got in this morning and I started it. The engine fired and right before it was about catch it just dies. I tried two more times and nothing. I check my radio...no problem, all the interior lights are on, the flashers work and I turn on the headlights the sidemarkers come on but the two front lights are out. I read the voltage meter and it reads 12. Which I think it was before but would always be up at 14 when I got her fully warmed up.

My thinking: Its got to be a fuel problem or electrial problem and my suspicion is the battery. Any thoughts? I plan on calling AAA later this afternoon for them to check my battery and if that's not it I'm having her towed to the dealer. Anyone experience something like this before? I am so sad. :(

Sounds like it has lost it's tension. As I recall when it is installed they wind up a tensioning spring.

Does the motor run?

The motor runs and it will roll back and forth no problem. The issue is that when it rolld it back the remaining shade material does not roll into the cover it just droops down. I will look at it and see if its a spring. If not I will bring it to the stealer.

I have a my02 targa. The shade switch works and moves the front bar back and forth to "open & close" the shade. The problem is that when it goes back the shade does not retract and roll up into the back like it should. Instead it just droops down. I pulled the cover off hoping it was just a spring loaded mech and stuck. But after looking at it, it may have a second motor to roll up with. Has anyone had this issue before? I was able to roll it by hand and at least it is out of the way now.

Any help would be appreciated.

I just had a full glass out respray. Cost was £5000. it looks great now!

There are a lot of things that can factor into the cost of a good paint job. One of the first things is where you live. In California I know that a "show quality" paintjob can cost between 6 and 10 thousand dollars. That same quality paint job here in Florida costs between 4 and 6 thousand.

The other main factor is if you are changing the color or keeping your factory color. If you are keeping the factory color they don't "have" to paint your door, trunk and engine bay jams. They can sometimes just fade the paint into there and you will never know the difference. That depends on how good your jams are.

The main thing is to make sure they do all the prep work correctly. Make them take off all the doors, engine lid, hood and mirrors etc. If you want it done "perfect" have them take off all of your window seals and glass etc. Then put all new seals in. This isn’t as important if you are keeping your original color.

Keeping your original color a good job should cost about 3,000. If you are changing colors and want it perfect expect to pay at least 6,000. Make sure you see customer cars that the shop has done. Don't let them show you their personal shop cars, those always look better.

Paint is one of those things that you really do get what you pay for with.

yeah they changed the plugs. I drove the car for about 70 miles and the light came back on at about 70 miles. The car still drives fine and feels solid. I will call the shop that did the work and see if he can look at it.

I took the car to autozone and had the codes read:

P0300

Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0306

Cylinder 6

Misfire Detected

P0304

Cylinder 4

Misfire Detected

P0305

Cylinder 5

Misfire Detected \\PO175

System Too Rich

(Bank2)

I had them cleared and seems fine. Will drive a littel tonight to see if it comes back. It had been a few weeks since driving it and i bogged bad once so that could have been it.

I just had my 60k maint done and also had fabspeed headers and cat deletes put on. The fabspeed site says you might get a cel but car will be fine. The car runs 100% normal and the flashing goes away after only a few seconds. Is this a normal cel or does the flashing mean really bad things?

Check D8 (radio) and D9 (soundsystem).

Checked and fixed. It did not look blown but it was.

Thanks!

I have a 2002 targa with the bose setup and the tape deck. My cars battery died and I had to jump it. Someone switch the positive and negative for a second while trying to jump the car. Afterwords the car started and everything seemed fine. I turned on the radio and it asked for the code. After puttng it in it came on adn there was no sound. I tried a few different stations and even AM, nothing not even a hiss.

I checked any of the fuses that look like they would be associated with the radio, they were all good. The only thing I can think is that the amp fuse might be blown.

Any ideas or know where the amp is located to check it?

I did my rear sawy bar and it was easy. On the fronts it looks like i need to remove the front underbody panel. It looks like it is held on with a series of clips. Do you just have to take those clips off to remove it so I can access the bolts and remove/replace the front way bar?

Thanks a lot. I appreciate the help.

Im in orlando florida.

Thanks.

Basically the car just does a long low tone when in reverse. It does not change when you get closer to objects. I almost hit my buddies car testing this.

Any Ideas?

Thanks!

I want to know if anyone has a procedure for cleaning the rear parking sensors? I tired the search feature at length and could not find anything.

I am picking my car up today. The car is operating properly with the new filter and oil change. He thinks the car "should" be fine. Since it was only a little low on pressure due to the blockage not starved and he found all of the "missing" filter.

I will take a picture when i get there tonight.

He has the filter there. Wanted me to come see it but i just couldnt make it. When I go pick the car up i will defiantely take a shot of it. Im just praying the oil pressure is correct after the new filter and oil. Thankfully it has never shown a low pressure or oil warning while driving the car and I only have gotten on it hard once while i have had it. He is optomistic that everything will be ok.

I am thinking if it runs good when i get it back I might just pick up a extended warranty to cover the motor. The only engine mods I have are fabspeed headers and a cat delete. Those could be returned to factory if i had a problem.

I just got off the phone with the shop. They said that the last time (unknown) someone did an oil change on the car it was done incorrectly. There is a tube that the filter is suposed to tightly fit into and it was not seated properly. The pressure from the oil inlet (might be using the wrong term) tube crushed the filter and sucked it into the tube. The remaining filter is in that tube blocking flow of oil. This is the cause for the lower oil pressure.

Hopefully when it all goes back together and is cleared it will be fine.

I guess it means to be very carefull to seat your filter properly in the housing before screwing on the filter cap.

Fingers crossed!!!

I was having my 60k service and they said 1/4 to 1/2 of the oil filter is "missing". They said it looked like someone blew it up with a fire cracker. I just got this car and don't know if the previous owner neglected it and it was just a really old filter.

Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Any ideas. So far the car ran fine. He is concerned about the oil pressure not going past 4 when driving it. He hopes that when a new filter and oil is in everything will be ok. He is worried something will eventually get stuck and cause a oil starvation issue.

Has this ever happened to anyone??

The car is a 2002 targa 6spd with 59k.

I have a set of the Agency Power Rear Adjustible controll arms. I am doing the install of my KW VariantIII and GT3 sway bars with the adjustible drop links this weekend. The controll arms look really easy to swap but does anyone have a DIY?

Thanks!

I am looking into having some custom titanium tips made for the car but need to know the pipes diameter that leads to the tip.

Thanks in advance!

MY02 Carrera(s)

Thanks so much, it was just that my headlight was not plugged all the way in, dough!

My kayout is not on the inside of the panel. The right headlight will not work. The flashers, high low and all. It worked the other day. I recently had the ignition switch replaced also.

Thanks!

Thanks, do you know if i change the faceplate if it will want the code from the faceplate or my radio. I would think it should not ask for a code.

I picked up a 2002 targa and someone had taken the faceplate off the radio. The car has the bose stereo with the cd changer. The radioface looks to be the shape of the cdr220 but it is not a cd unit. It has a tape opening in the space where the faceplate would go.

Any ideas?