valter

Thank you, really appreciate your help!

Sorry for the late update but I fixed it. Transmission shifts perfectly now. 

At first I could not find this green solenoid anywhere. A black one which is right next to it is totally similar to shift solenoid from another AISIN transmissions used in VW / Jetta. I bought it and tried in place of green one. Bad decision! Transmission was out of limp mode but shifted really badly, with big delays going to each gear.

I finally found a whole assembled valvebody with all solenoids from broken transmission parting out, replaced both black and green from it to my transmission and everything is perfect! It shifts better then new.

For the laughs, here lessons learned:

- Transmission oil/filter change can be done in 30 minutes on jackstands on a driveway if you did it 3+ times lol

- Substitution of solenoids for another part is bad idea

- Most transmission filters that you can buy come from who knows where, despite proper markings. First new filter that just came in had a neck smaller (just tiny bit) then old one. And even with new rubber gasket wont seal properly with valvebody. Next, different source filter was perfect.

- Schwaben brake bleeder / fluid pump is worth it's price in gold. Just get it if you want to fill transmission in minutes with no mess.

Thank you so much everyone who helped, really appreciate it!!!

 

My N89 solenoid shorted inside (coil melted?) and I need to find a replacement. No matter how hard I try, cant find part # or part itself. Lots of similar solenoids from other Aisin transmissions, but not exactly like it. In attached images is the location of same solenoid (1) and solenoid itself that I removed today. 

There are following letters/numbers on it:

2248

3G09

all searches fail. May be this is part #? I bet not...

I appreciate any help!

On 10/19/2020 at 11:45 AM, JFP in PA said:

Voltage to shift solenoid "A" is low.

I found an issue today, it's N89 solenoid. Resistance is only 5 ohms, should be in the range from 11 to 15.

Now big problem - where to find it? Cant find anything for 0C8 gearbox, the only similar is for Audi Q7 2012 off ebay hope it will fit

Picture of burnt solenoid (you can see burn marks on connector as well!):

I believe it's #2 solenoid:
 

Thank you!!! Will check connections/etc. Hope solenoid itself is fine.

Totally out of the blue while driving transmission got stuck on 3rd gear and wont shift. Check engine light is ON. It goes to reverse, park, drive (3rd!) with big bump...

I tried scanning it with durametric 6, got these from transmission module:

12750 / 31CE

Warning Indicator On
Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle
Test Failed Since Last Clear
Test Completed Since Last Clear
Pending DTC
Test Failed This Operation Cycle
Fault Active

Either durametric is not reading codes correctly or something else, but I cant find anything about this weird code...

My old universal Innova scanner reports P0973, which is also strange, as durametric not picking it up.

Very confused with all of this... I appreciate any help! Thank you!

My car scares the deers around on a cold (<30F) degrees startup in the morning. Lasts just 2 seconds, but doesn't sound good at all. I have M1 0W40 inside, next change will try DT or RP. Car is driven A LOT. Absolutely normal startup if temp is above 50. My wife's 996 with twice less miles with same oil has no such problem in any weather...

Wanted to provide an update:

Got completely fed-up with the sound and inability to pinpoint it, ordered bearing and tool for install. Realized that tool will take forever to arrive since it needs to be made I guess (still in mail lol)... Bought a whole front left wheel carrier assembly with bearing from low mile Boxster for only $125, installed it in one hour (very easy to do) and NO MORE NOISE!!! It was a bearing, and the sound it made was just chirping...

Found myself at the same boat this am. Wifes 01 c2 battery died, replaced it with optima, now radio asks for code....

Its cdr-220

Model 4462

Ser# 15005398

Thank you so much in advance!

Try 7075

Yeeeey!!! Loren - thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!! Code worked from the first try and now I would be safe when my wife returns home and radio is working in her car :)

Found myself at the same boat this am. Wifes 01 c2 battery died, replaced it with optima, now radio asks for code....

Its cdr-220

Model 4462

Ser# 15005398

Thank you so much in advance!

Hi vaulter,

The clearance should be the same on both sides. If not there is an alignment problem. The tire rubbing the strut would definitely cause a wheel speed rotation noise. This should be checked out immediately and if the side wall is damaged both front tires should be replaced. When the alignment is checked have the tech check the left front wheel bearing to make sure it is OK. Wheel bearing failure will always make noise at wheel rotation speed but the sound can range from a squeaking, to a harmonic ring to a rumble. The key is wheel rotation speed. Brakes usually squeak when they are applied. I would think that if a tire were rubbing the strut the spacer would have stopped it. Better check that wheel bearing.

Yes, 19" rims are too big for that car giving you a smaller side wall and a less compliant ride. Do get 18s when you get the chance. No reason to stick to Porsche wheels. There is nothing special about them and they are over weight and overpriced. OZ Alliggereta HLTs are great wheels for the money and something like 3 lb lighter than the stock wheels. Do not use more than a 5 mm spacer. Your wheels will not index the hubs correctly.

Thank you so much for your reply! I am going to swap front wheel for a spare and see whether sound goes away. But unfortunately it looks more and more like a wheel bearing. Thank you for wheel recommendation - I am driving a lot (DC to NYC) and comfort of a ride is very important to me, so I am definitely going to swap these wheels.

Hi Everyone! New owner here and I have a problem that needs a bit deeper knowledge of wheel fitment and front suspension to solve. Car is 2000 Carrera

I am getting pretty loud speed-dependent rhythmic sound from the front left wheel - it starts after 1-2 miles of driving. Not humming like a bearing but squeaking/chirping kind of. So here is the situation:

- No sound when everything cold, it starts after few miles of driving

- Sound is not brakes-dependant, there is no change in tone/volume when you push brakes

- Sometimes it goes away for no obvious reason for a minute or two and then it's back. Cant relate it to any bumps on road

- When you come to complete stop, and then start moving sound disappears for 30 seconds or so

- Loudest at ~30-40mph

- Wheels are standard 19" lobster forks from 997 (would love to swap them back to normal 18" OEM's from 996)

- I started noticing sound after replacing rotors (with Zimmermans) and pads

Another very interesting observation: Right Front tire vs front strut clearance is ok, but Left Front is really tight and there was some traces of wheel rubbing the plate on which the spring sits when I removed a wheel. Something wrong / bent / misaligned in suspension?

Tried 5, 7, 15mm spacers with no effect. I appreciate any suggestions and help! Thank you!

How it behaves under hard acceleration from stop? If it is slipping, you will definitely feel how at some gear you will get "disconnected" from wheels feel, when RPM's climbs without any significant acceleration.