felixliter

Gear shifting problems.
When I try to shift at high revs/torque the gears will not go in easy.
It feels like the clutch will not engage fully, you still have  torque/revs even if you have pressed the clutch pedal to the floor. 

I've tried to bleed the clutch, couldn't see any air bubbles. 
Are there any other adjustment possibilities?

Thanks, solved the probelm, after some struggle I could remove the sensor with the hose attached.

Any ideas?

Ok, but should I remove the electrical contact with the hose on? There is no room to disconnect the hose from the sensor.

Or shall I try to remove it from the the actuator (26).

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/downloadedimages/107-10.jpg

Hi,
So the line (position 29 in the spare part manual) shall not be removed from the actuator (26)?
Shall it be removed from the sensor (were the electrical contact is on top)?
I'vetried to pull without any luck.

BR//Jonas

Hi,

I need to remove the resonance tube.

Where do I remove the line (29), shall I pull it out from the actuator (26)?

BR//Jonas

Hi,
Thanks for your answer.
I took away the inlet tube (rear one) and the connecting hose from the AOS, there were quite a lot of oil there.
Regarding the othe inlet tube (towards the seats) there is some sort of vacum controlled flap there, Can I just pull the vacum line out from the flap or do  I need to disconnect it from the sensor (electrical) contact cloose to the airfilter?
It seems to be fastened hard and I dont want to breake anything.

Hi,

I've got an Boxster S 2000.

I've read a lot of the topics concerning smoke when cold but just to be sure before I start to work.

It is smoking roughly after 20sek until warm (5-10min), then the smoke disaper.

Engine oil looks good (clear black/brown).

Coolant is also clear.

I've changed the MAF.

I've done the oilcap test, but the cap is easey to remove (no sunction), starts to idle a bit strange.

The smoke looks quite white to me.

I can hear a whistle noice when I release the throttle after reving (a bit like a Turbo engine).

There are oil leakage arround the hose clamps (see picture)

Beside this the car is running great, no fault codes. 

Can it be anything else than the AOS?

Great, thanks for your answers.

Hi

Sorry for my English skils.

No5 is the senor.

I refering to the part that the sensor is reading from.

Normally some sort of "toothed wheel", gear wheel.

I've read it can be integreated in the bearing, but as far as I can recall the gear wheel were on the drive scaft (changed CV boot for a Cole of weeks ago)

Hi

Thanks for your Quick reply.

Do you know if the ABS sensor ring is integratedin the bearing or if thats just on the never models.

Br//Jonas

I´ve bought an Boxster S model year 2000.
The engine have been changed during its lifetime.
New engine number is M96/21AT67Y65207

I was going to change my rear wheel hub bearing.
The dimension of the old bearing is:
OD 80mm

ID 42mm

width 42mm

I can't find any information about this bearing.

Can someone tell me the part nuber or bering number.

Its a *** manufactured bearing.

Hi,

I've got a Boxster S, year 2000.
At year 2007 they changed engine to M96/21AT67Y65207.
The new engine have about 15500miles now.
Since it was a new rebuilt engine from Porsche (AT), can I still have a IMS problem, if so any ideas about what type of bearing?

Best Regards//Jonas

Porsche Boxster s (2000)

Hi,

Looking for DIY how to change outer tie rod.

Is it difficult?

Any tips?

Sen some posts/instruktions how to change both Inter and outer tie rod, is there any reason to change the inner part?

Br//Jonas

Thanks for your answers!
//Jonas
 

Hi,
I´ve bought an Boxster S model year 2000.
The engine have been changed during its lifetime.
New engine number is M96/21AT67Y65207.
Does any one know what type this is and which modelyear?

BR// Jonas

 

Hi,

Its impossible for me to losen the ball joint on the controlarm, cant fit any type of separator tool.

shall i try to lose on the adjuster side instead (towards the gearbox).

Any idaeas what to do?

BR//JJ

thanks, now they work fine.

Hi,

I’m quite new in this forum so please forgive me for stupid question.

Yesterday I should bleed the clutch, I used a tool to pressurize the break fluid reservoir (like the motive toll) approx. 1 bar.

Unfortunately I was not taking attention enough so I drained the reservoir doing the rear left caliper (Yes I know that was a mistake).
I filled and flushed all 4 calipers, no visible air but the brake pedal is not working.

Can pump some pressure but if I hold the foot pressure the pedal will go down to the floor.

Any ideas, can it be air in the ABS unit, if so where is it and how to do?

//Jonas