Oh1-911

You can disconnect the A/C hoses at the compressor, and the fuel cooler stays in place.

I had a tough time with the rear mounting bolt as well - ended up using a box wrench to break it loose, and then a 1/4 drive ratchet /wobbly/extension from the top.

Great thanks, I'll leave it for now and re-check when we get some warmer weather.

I was using 12 oz cans, and it's not very accurate, but I attempted to get 34 oz. in there which is almost 3 cans.  I have heard that you need to add about 2 oz for the loss due to the charge hoses, and I didn't do that, so I could be 2-4 oz low.  I just thought if it was too low my low side pressure would be dropping to the 25-28 range.

On the oil- the compressor comes filled, but they want you to drain out the oil from the old compressor, measure it, and then remove oil from the new compressor to match the amount.  Keeps you from having too much oil in the system.

Thanks for the input.

I recently replaced the A/C compressor on my 996 with a brand new unit.  The system was working fine prior to that, but I was already in there doing a bunch of other work and it has 93k miles.

Evacuated the system for 30 min, added 34 oz of R134a as the manual says, and all is good except the high side pressure is running about 85 psi, with a normal low side of about 32 psi.  Ambient temp in my garage has been low (50-55) but I still expected the high side to be over 100 psi.

Air blows cold in the car, 38-40F, and everything else seems normal, compressor does not cycle off/on as it might if Freon was low.

Any thoughts?  May need a bit more Freon?

Lift height is 21".

After researching scissor lifts for my 996 with limited garage space I decided to go with the Quickjack 5000xl.  The "xl" means the length is extended so that the lift pads will line up with the jack points on the car.  The standard 3500 and 5000 models are not long enough.

It arrived well packed, no damage, pretty easy assembly, and decent instructions.

Nice little hydraulic power unit with good quick-disconnect hose fittings that don't leak.

Only issue was that one of the long extension hoses was not crimped properly and would it would not allow any oil flow.  Only one side would raise up!  Rather than wait for a new set (of VERY cheap low quality hoses) to be shipped I went to my local hydraulic hose shop and had them make up 2 really nice flexible Gates (USA) hoses.  That solved the problem and the lift works well.

One advantage of this type of scissor lift is that there are no cross-members so nothing underneath the car is obstructed.

Installed yesterday, fits and connects exactly the same as the 120 amp.  I should have the car running early next week...  all I have left is the coolant tank and fill/test.

As long as I was in there I went ahead and replaced the AC compressor with the correct (new) Denso unit so have a freon charge to do as well.

It has the clutched pulley.

After looking for a new Bosch 120 amp alternator for my 2001 C2, and seeing only remans for $500 to $1200, I wanted to pass along what I found.

Turns out that the later 150 amp Bosch alternator (AL0815N)  is more available and I was able to order a brand new OEM Bosch unit for a little over $400 from my local import parts store.  The 150 amp has exactly the same fit as the 120 amp, and you don't have to take a chance with a reman unit or off-brand.

After going through all the hose diagrams and pulling out the recovery tank, I figured this out.  

The hose with a 90 that connects just below the breather valve is the vent hose that comes from the oil cooler.  The hose that goes to the 'T' is a return hose from the AOS.  So to find the part numbers you have to go to the AOS and oil cooler parts pages.

2001 C2- I'm replacing coolant hoses but cannot ID the two shown in the attached pictures.  Both hoses run to the back of the engine. 

The hose that comes off of the "T" (second pic) attaches to hose 996 106 580 00 (05) but I cannot find anything in the diagrams.

Thank you.

After having my 2001 trans removed/replaced for clutch, IMS brg, and RMS, the shift from 1-2 was a little notchy.  I ordered the B&M shifter direct from B&M ($289) and installed it yesterday in about 2 hours. 

The old shifter was still pretty tight but I found that 1 cable was out of adjustment by a few mm.  Used the Porsche tool to adjust the cables before I removed the old shifter, installed new cable ends, and everything works great.  The shifts are now tight and smooth, and as others have noted it's well worth the time and money.  I considered going with a aftermarket boot and shift knob but decided to stay original. 

Here is what I found on my '01 that had a sunroof rattle only when the roof was open.

Operate the roof so that it is tilted, and then look along the back edge of the frame.  There will be a drip pan that is spring loaded, and a weather strip piece attached to it.  If the weather strip is missing or just laying there in the drip tray, the drip tray will move up and down going over bumps and make a bad rattle.  See pic- the screwdriver points to the drip tray, and you can see the rubber strip in place.

Clean up the pieces, glue the weather strip piece back on, and the rattle should go away.  My roof is silent now!

Overall a great manual with nice pictures, illustrations, and specs.  I'm sure it will save me much more than the cost of the book. 

So far the biggest omissions I noticed are lack of info on shifter adjustment and shift cables, and the external parts of the AOS system.  Still far better than most manuals that I had for old VW models.

Good info.  It's interesting that the massive Bentley service manual says nothing about shifter adjustment or replacing the cables.

I just had my trans pulled and clutch replaced.  Is it recommended to check the shift cable adjustment after this is done?