aan310

What is the approximate value of a set of litronic lights in good condition?

I'm selling my car and am thinking I might be better off selling the lights separately.

Thanks!

Wow. So the + cable where it attaches to the distributor was not tightened. So that problem seemingly is now solved.

However I have two more.

One is a leak I'm getting from the underside of this big plastic tube - not even sure what it is.

Also it sounds like I have an air leak coming from the circled spot as well. Is there supposed to be a clamp there or is that normal?

Finally I have an update.

The tool for the cigarette lighter with the new (used) alternator reads between 13.4 and 13.8

My multimeter on the battery showed about 1v less, sitting between 12.2 and 12.6.

When I attempted a drop test from the cigarette power to the positive terminal I showed a value of 1.5xx

No bushing - but I found a junkyard with a Bosch alternator for $70 - so I'm just going to pick that up and go from there

Looks like I'm buying an alternator [emoji52]

I'll reinstall my alternator and test that again.

Do you have any idea where to get another one of those metal bushings? Mine got destroyed in the removal process and I can't seem to find one online anywhere.

12.8 when voltage is checked at the battery. This is when cold and warm and litronic low beams on.

When I have the voltage drops it doesn't seem to matter if the car is cold or been running for a while.

Also just ordered that tool today - should be here mid week next week.

Update: alternator shows 12.8 with my multimeter - took it to be bench tested, tests good 13.1 low, 13.9 avg, 14.2 high

So this means somewhere from the alternator up to the battery posts I'm losing power - correct?

At the cigarette adaptor i show 13.4-13.6

That is at 200mv

So is the new one showing a constant 1.4 meaning that something still isn't right on the battery ground?

Correct. Engine strap showed no change. The old battery ground jumped between .03 and 1.8 - new battery ground stays constant at 1.4

Two brand new ground straps. Issue still not solved.

Any other ideas?

Also I should be on 200m correct?

How would I do the drop test for the ground strap? Since I can't access the battery at the same time

New ignition switch didn't change anything.

Tested the ground cable - got absolutely no voltage drop.

Also tested voltage at the battery under load, 3-5krpm - getting 13.6-8ish on a brand new battery. Alternator maybe not putting enough out? Or is that okay?

What other things should I be checking?

Sounds like you still have the issues with a new battery. You may have issues with your cables. Visual inspection when good it's far from enough to verify the cables are healthy. You need to perform somevoltage drop tests on each cable to find out where you lose the voltage (flickering h adlights and dash indicate that).

Your symptoms seem very similar to Swaff's http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46275-power-surges-radio-turning-off-instrument-panel-flicker-light-flicker/

He had a bad battery negative cable, confirmed by voltage drop test between the ends of the cable when the flickering occured.

How would I do this test? I read through his thread already, but I'm still unclear on it.

Also good point, with how cheap they are I'll get another ignition switch just for good measure and rule out the brand new one wasn't bad

Alternator appears okay. At idle I'm getting 13.4-13.8 - I don't have anyone to help me check it at load.

Ground cable coming from battery to chassis appears fine. Ground strap to engine I have not checked however

Hey everyone!

I've got a 2000 Boxster and have some terrible electrical gremlins.

When driving (happens much more often at night with headlights on too) my dash lights dim/flicker and my radio cuts out.

I have a brand new ignition switch put in, and my battery was just replaced yesterday as well (last one died after 1 year? Not sure if related or not)

Help?!