hatchetf15

Welcome! Pretty car. Get a good scanner and do good preventative work, the car will be happy. These cars are so much fun to tinker with. Get a comprehensive scanner. Drive it like you stole it. 

On 1/18/2022 at 4:51 PM, mastrpdawg said:

Does anyone know what the GT3 ride height specs noted above translate to in terms of road surface to fender running through the center cap? It seems difficult to get that measurement on a low car without having on a lift which defeats the purpose.

Take a telescoping mirror and use it at the reference points mentioned in Loren’s post. The pictures from the post from Oct 2004 will help (def did for me). The flat part of the handle base will help you find perpendicular. It’ll get you within a mm or two.

How many miles? Any service records? That will drive the priority. Coolant pipes a must. The hatch struts you’ll know if they don’t pop up with authority with no droop. Check the center rear hatch glass to make sure it opens. Turn on headlights and observe the leveling test. All four wheels spec’d with 275/40 20s. TTS had staggered 9”/10” standard. Tip should’ve been serviced sometime after 50,000 miles or so. Brake disc thickness because the front 380’s are very expensive. Listen to engine with with the hood up. Check some of the audio clips on RL for bore score vs. injector noise. Check to make sure every switch works. After the car is started, run the air suspension full up and full down to loading height. Check for air compressor hose under rear passenger seat (driver side). While you’re there smell for any fuel vapor. If there is any smell, the safety recall may not have been done for fuel seal. If it has the pano roof, check that thoroughly. If the battery is weak, the car may throw some weird malfunction indicators at you. These items will help you determine gold plated or money pit.

For the test drive the transmission should shift up and down pretty dang smoothly. Turn off PSM and check the transmission changes to sport map, starts in 1st and holds gears to redline. Try the sport mode with PSM off and the suspension low. You will be impressed.

Then schedule the PPI.

I love mine…

B8 with M030 springs are sweet spot for ‘aggressive’ touring. RoW M030, then Eibach pro springs (cheaper than M030, last I looked) are progressively a little lower and firmer. HR springs are lowest and harsher. I ended up with B8/M030 dampers and Eibach springs and adjustable rear sway and love it. I like a firmer suspension.

I agree with them. Take out the ballast and assess what your suspension condition is. Measure front/rear ride height and check the rake. What’s the mileage on the parts and what flavor of parts are installed? 

kbrandsma...is the car a tip? If so, any work done on the tranny?

joe...the bolt shown now for that application is threaded halfway. OP has one with only first quarter threaded, but...

Mark,

Did they say why? Too much pushrod play? Spoiler is electric. Bellows broken or leaks? Just trying to lighten your wallet? What caused the ABS light? Elves? Do they have PIWIS or Durametric?

Cam solenoid bolt is a 94mm. Could it be from the back of the power steering pump?

The rears are for wide body. The narrow body uses 67 offset in these. I have spacers on front on the ET 57’s, no spacers in back on the ET 67’s.

My experience: dido@didotuning.pl e-mail and www.didotuning.pl for the website. They take Paypal and write decent English. My order, shipped, was 185 zloty’s or $50. Got a set from them a year ago. Takes 20 minutes to put them on and they look great. 

I had the same problem.  I found a thread,not too long ago, mentioning to take driver side sill plate off and look under seat memory pushbuttons to check for a disconnected plug. Yup, mine was unplugged. Whole thing took me 20 minutes to do with an ipad to display the dyi instructions, flat screw driver and hex heads. Now my keys and seats work flawlessly. Might be worth a try. Happy hunting!