akpud

Hello,

I have a 2000 C2 (60,000 Miles) which I've been very happy with - wonderful car, beautiful ride and very few repairs. I'm considering buying a Turbo. My question is - what can I expect in terms of annual maintenance and further, are the twin turbos generally reliable, or should I expect to be a regular visitor to my local Porsche dealer?

Many thanks for the input!

AK

Sounds like it might be the starter - check it out before replacing the battery.

AK

Thanks for your help! As long as that measurement includes the mirrors - the C2 will fit and I can then store it in my garage next winter - rather than have to pay for offsite indoor storage (where the Boxster is now).

Yes, and the car is pretty much a done deal - as soon as the present owner's new car arrives...............so I gotta be patient (not one of my strong suits!).

Thanks again!

AK

Hi, I will be buying a 99 C2 Cab in the next few months.

The tech specs on the C2 say that the car is 1765 mm (69.5") wide. Can anyone tell me what the width of the car is including the mirrors. (Trying to see if it'll fit in my garage!)

Also - do the mirrors fold back?

Thanks,

I'm looking at buying a 1999 C2 Cab (and trading the Box). Does anyone know where I can get a complete listing of the specs for the vehicle for that year and an outline of those items which came standard (as opposed to options).

Thanks,

AK

I'll take a closer look and let you know.

AK

Just an update - the silicone has worked flawlessly so far (rain or shine). The rubber has not folded over once since the silicone was applied a week ago.

AK

Thanks. Bottom line is I'll probably have to replace the rubber strip - but the silicone seems to be working fine for now. Today it's raining - so I'll see how it holds up.

Anyone know what the approx cost is to replace that rubber strip on the window?

AK

Just a note - I purchased a tube of pure silicone and applied it to the moulding a few days ago. So far it's worked perfectly. I'll update in a week or so to see if it holds. The only caveat is the weather - it is cooler now up here in Toronto and this may have something to do with it - but the fact is that this is the only solution that has worked (even moderately) so far.

I'll be very interested to see if you come up with a solution - good luck - and please post it if you do!

AK

I have exactly the same problem - and no solution yet!

So far I've tried spraying Gummi (dd nothing) and rubbing "Black" from Meguires into it (did nothing).

Still waiting.............

Check out my earlier post - http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry51305

Good luck!

AK

Thanks Chris - I tried the spray version a few months ago - but it did not seem to have any noticeable effect. I'll give the "Black" stuff a try (bought it last night) and if that doesn't work, I'll give the Gummi Pflege another shot at it. The gel version of Gummi is no longer available at dealers in Toronto. I'll see if I can get it online.

Thanks for the advice.

AK

That's great - thanks! I'll give it a try.

AK

Thanks TP - but it's the hard rubber part that's catching and folding into the window. If it would help I could upload a picture.

Thanks,

AK

Good Day All!

When my Driver's side window is wet and I lower the window - the moulding / weather strip on the outside of the window catches and folds in towards the window as it is lowering. This causes the motor to have to fight harder to lower the window and I'm concerned that sooner or later it will burn out.

Does anyone have any suggestions for repair / replacement / conditioning of the strip?

Many Thanks,

AK

Hey SD - why not find someone in your area with a Durametric, turn off the light and see if it reappears. In my case - it did not................

AK

Hi Folks - are you supposed to feel resistance in the clutch right from the top of the pedal - or is there supposed to be some play?

AK

Many thanks Chris,

Well unfortunately I ain't 6'2" (except in my dreams) and I sit as far back as the seats will allow. So I could actually hit the floor with the pedal but it takes some doing. The clutch shifts very smoothly with no grinding whatever even though it's not all the way to the floor. In my original post I said 1/2 way - but I've been paying closer attention to the movement and it's actually a little further (probably more like 3/4s to the floor but still not all the way down).

In any case you have answered my question and I appreciate your time and the response.

Best regards,

AK

Before you shut down, let it sit for 60 seconds or so at normal idle. This seems to have cured a similar problem for me (and is recommended in the Manual).

AK

Good Morning,

1998 Boxster with 65,000 Miles (new clutch at 60,000). NO problems with the clutch whatsoever!

My question is simply to find out the proper procedure for depressing the clutch when shifting. Is it required to depress the clutch all the way to the floor (as the manual suggests)? I can very smoothly shift gears while depressing the clutch only half way - but will this reduce the wear and longevity of the flywheel?

Your advise is, as always, much appreciated!

AK

What about this....

https://www.wilhelmy-it.de/sms/shop/?p=b3Jn...mc9MiZjdXJyPTI=

AK

Loren, I would like to update this saga for the information of all.

I finally decided to change repair shops here in Toronto and went to another shop that also specializes in Porsches. They found 12 fault codes (this, of course, if AFTER the other shop repeatedly "fixed" the car and told me the problems had been solved).

The faults we derived from 6 rusted and cracked ignition coils, bad sparks, one damaged hose and finally, they got down to one more fault they couldn't clear and couldn't find. They sent it out to a shop with a 'smoker' which blew blue smoke through the intake (they told me) and they finally were able to pinpoint the leak - another small hose which was completely mashed. (Keep in mind that the 1st shop had done the pre-purchase inspection, a major tune on the car and had been trying to get the CEL to go off for the better part of a year!)

Now, for the first time since I bought the car - the CEL is off and it's been off for weeks! :cheers:

Now let me assure everyone that the original repair shop is VERY well known and respected in Toronto - and, in spite of that, the work was horrible AND expensive. Every time I left that shop the CEL would come back on within a day or so. They had no idea what they were doing - because the parts that we pulled out of the car were certainly there when they did the work and the pre-purchase analysis. At the pre-purchase inspection I asked them if they had plugged in the car to check for fault codes and they said that they had (later they admitted that they had not). If they had plugged it in - it would have thrown off multiple codes for sure. We also would have known that the CEL was on (we couldn't tell because the bulb had been pulled).

I'll post some pics of the parts taken out of the car in a few days.

Regards,

AK

Thanks - I've just read that thread.

AK

You may find it funny to learn that perhaps the most valuable insight that I gleaned was how to "jimmy" the trunk latch after having locked my keys in the trunk....

Hi - can you refer me to that thread (re: the trunk latch)

Thanks,

AK

I bought it from a Canadian based retailer called Canadian Tire - here is the link for you. I'm not sure if they'll ship overseas......

http://www.canadiantire.ca/intro/homepage....3;7205!7305

(Search "reader" or "Code reader")

Best Regards,

AK