Greg

My bodyshop could not get the tabs to compress enough to remove the fuel filler door (Step A). Eventually they had to break the plastic around the metal hinge pin (Step Z, not pictured). Even with the door removed, I could not extract the clips cleanly. So, I removed the remaining plastic in pieces(Step @#!%, not pictured).

BMW sells an identical hinge (apparently much cheaper than Porsche). When I picked up the fuel filler door, the new hinge was attached. I just snapped it into place.

Try this:

1 877 930 0911

http://www.rennlist.com/spnsrs/ghl.html

It would be easier to pay for all expenses up front and then submit a bill to the insurance company. Does the law force you to work through the system set up by the insurance company? The insurance company has a contract with the other person, not you.

When my car was hit I had to take a half day off to have my car inspected. I would have rather just told them where it will be from 8-5 and let them come to it.

Congratulations! You can't be "Haze gray and underway" in a red car. Maybe you can pioneer the port/starboard turn signal modification.

My 2001 used T-27 Torx instead of T-25. I used some cheapo bits from Ace, maybe they were labelled wrong.

Everything above is true. New is usually better. But a pristine 83 is a lot better than an abused 89. Look at lots of cars and learn the relative strengths of each. Take a look at anything in the market that fits your needs and don't narrow your search needlessly. Also, find a shop you trust to do the prepurchase inspections.

Sometimes the dealer or a previous owner will put the code on the option list pasted to the hood.

I have heard a bad ground strap can cause electrical problems that develop when the car is hot.

Try EagleOne A2Z. Very strong. No negative effect on my wheels. I spray on, brush, then hose off.

http://autopia.org/review/censura.php?cmd=details&itemid=158

Several of my wrenches are duplicates. Occasionally the fastener has a bolt and nut of the same size and are in a space that only wrenches will reach.

Thanks!

I have the Porsche air compressor. It works but takes a while.

Thank you all for the advice!!

I would like to get a torque wrench. Which one should I buy for typical DIY automotive projects? There is a Sears nearby, I also have a Griot's catalog.

Thanks

I use Novus Clean and Shine and the Fine Scratch Remover on the plastic rear window of my cab. They keep the window clear and hide the fine scratches. They do not return it to perfect.

I think the scratch remover is actually a "scratch filler." (Just a gut feeling) I have not used the Heavy Scratch Remover, it may be abrasive and that may be what you need if the first two do not solve the problem.

Another manufacturer to look at is Meguiars.

I am also a fan of GHL. Nice people, good product. I am lucky they are a short 90 miles away and installed the new mufflers very inexpensively.

Were the shipping and handling charges reasonable?

I have used 0000 steel wool lubricated with Sprayway glass cleaner on the outside surface of the front window in my 2001 996 and 2001 Honda Odyssey. I applied very slight pressure on the steel wool. It worked great, no scratches. I had minimal hard water deposits to begin with. I assume there was no etching. When finished, the glass was cleaner than ever. Some of the pinpoint defects in the glass that I thought were pits from sand were actually contaminants adherent to the surface and were removed.

I just got a Boxster the beginning of August.  What do you clean the convertable top with...just water?  Soap and water?  Do you rinse it off, or dry it with a towel?  What's up with 'top' car care?

Raggtopp makes a cleaner and protectant for our tops. The cleaner worked great and the top still beads water after one application of the protectant 6 months ago.

Properautocare.com has several nice information pages on leather care. This link is information from Lexol.

http://www.properautocare.com/leclcoex.html

Kirk,

Sounds like a nice problem to have. I don't have any really useful information for you, other than I have used Lexol on my seats for about 5 years with good results.

You may want to browse www.autopia.org for more information. Also www.gurureports.org promises a future issue on leather care.

BTW, I apologize for helping hijack this thread. LVDell, please feel free to PM me if you would like to continue our discussion. I am interested in hearing your opinion and always open to new ideas.

I think simply measuring velocity is a poor way to maintain safety on our roads. I am not convinced that I am unsafe travelling 70 on a deserted highway with speed limit posted 65 in daylight. I do think the person travelling 55 in the passing lane on the same road with traffic moving at 65-70 is a danger, just like the person who passes (not speeding) thru an intersection after the light has turned red. There are many factors in accidents, speed is only one of them. It is just the easiest to objectify, enforce, and thus generate revenue.

I am not paranoid, I just frustrated that common sense and education are no part of the road safety equation.

Didn't GEICO financially support a company making laser guns for detecting speeding and subsidize the distribution of the guns to police departments? The proof that reducing velocity reduces accidents is shaky. However, if they can get a speeding ticket issued on more of their customers they can raise rates and increase profits.

I recently priced coverage with USAA and Farmer's and the cost was similar. I stayed with Farmer's. I like having a local agent.

Thanks Loren!!!!!