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aureliusmaxed

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Posts posted by aureliusmaxed


  1. They did tell me at Duramtric that they would reset the VINs one time.


    actually now that i have owned the enthusiast version for several months, there was some sort of hardware glitch that has allowed me to use unlimited vins. even after software and firmware update. i have contacted durametric support about this issue and they said to just keep using it as is.

    going in the durametric software and tools, tool info with the adapter connected just gives a blank window.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. 1 hour ago, Hayyan Al-Raisi said:

    Thanks guys but opening the engine lid by the emergency cable is what I do also I have replaced the parts linked to it (7 and 8 from the part diagram above. also the lid opening switch) . However, I want to fix the electric function of the opening mechanism, so is there a way to track the problem exactly?  

     

    on the 996 i was working on, there was no electronic release, it's physical.

     

    when the release was stuck, i removed the pull handle assembly and removed the bolt holding in the release handle. sometimes with the cable stretched with age, or with the lid shocks worn, the lid won't release from the catch. because the lever can't get enough leverage to pull the cable enough. so i then had an assistant pull hard on the cable with a screwdriver inserted into the eye of the cable end. while it was being pulled i then pushed and pulled the engine lid, and it came un-latched. once you have the lid opened up, adjust the locking mechanism by loosening the two 10mm bolts and pressing it down as far as it can go, and back off the rubber stoppers on the underside of the lid as much as they go without falling off. be sure to spray in some lubricant too.


  3. UPDATED: the alarm module had to be coded for european/domestic body style. the DME, key and alarm module were all sent to ECU doctors in Florida. Although they failed to follow my specific written instructions in programming the alarm module the first time, they accepted the return and sent back the package with no charge once it was properly set up. The car started the first time after receiving back the set of components but none of the alarm functions worked, and this was because the repair house didn't code the alarm to euro/Rest of World ROW. After returning the set they corrected this issue for no cost and once it was installed the alarm and engine all worked as normal.

     

    There was a combination of wiring harness issues that had to be repaired along with incorrectly programmed alarm module which was ordered from the local dealer. From what I heard the Porsche dealer here locally does not support foreign market cars and refused to;

    a) do the job correctly the first time b) provide follow-up support

    All they had to do was take notice of the VIN code showing it's a euro market body style, because on the 996 the lock system is having different wiring and components than the US market made cars. 


  4. Sad, I'm getting this same error code but on a 97 Boxster. Too bad the OP never bothered to reply and update his thread. From alldata;

     

    Quote

    TEST POINT 9
    Coolant Shutoff Valve Open Circuit/Short To Ground, Short To B+
    DTC 93
    Fault Effect: The reduced driving program is activated if there is an open circuit/short to ground.
    The fault is only entered in the fault memory in the event of a short circuit to plus.
    Note:
    The function of the coolant shutoff valve can be tested with the Porsche System Tester 2 (Drive links/Coolant shutoff valve).
    1. Test valve with the Tester.
    2. Check internal resistance of the valve. To do this, pull off plug connection on the valve and connect ohmmeter to pin 1 and pin 2.
    Nominal value: 25 ­ 35 ohms
    3. Check wire from the  Tiptronic control module connector pin 51 to the coolant shutoff valve connector pin 1 for open circuit, short to
    ground and short to B+.

     


  5. On 11/10/2016 at 2:35 AM, incognico said:

    Ok, I managed to track down the relevant wiring diagrams, which is certainly making things a lot easier!

     

    Thanks to all you guys for reading my post, much appreciated.

     

    I will resurrect this thread with some pics for you when the cluster is installed & working, and the car's rolling :cool:

     

    Incognico, sorry for not getting back to your more promptly. I've attached the wiring diagrams. The instrument cluster is on sheet 3. I'm curious to how you are simulating canbus signals.

     


  6. 5 hours ago, ECU Doctors said:

    Hi we just saw your post on Rennlist.

    Have you already gotten a solution for your issue?

    If not, please call us directly on one of these numbers: (954)652-1496, (954)652-1497, (954)306-6195

    It's true our 800 # does not work when calling from Canada.

    George
    Specialized ECU Repair

     

    Hi there, thanks for the reply. I have instructed the owner and we are sending the components out to your business for repairs/inspection. Kind regards.



  7. Thanks a lot,do you have any idea where's it located ? Any way to deactivate it?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    the alarm module can
    be disabled with a racing module that replaces it.
    it is sold by ecu doctors but i believe its over $1,000 .
    the alarm module is located under the driver seat and the seat has to be completely removed. inspect for signs of moisture. the estimate cost to hve the alarm module diagnosed is $75 which is much cheaper than buying a durametric or having a shop run the codes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. These are symptoms of your alarm module failing, unfortunately. You can have it repaired at a local flordia shop for about $750 I believe. ECU doctors ! Perhaps there has been moisture in the alarm computer which explains its strange behavior. 


  9. 19 minutes ago, Loren said:

    I agree that since this happens under load a air leak is likely. But you usually get a fault when that happens.

    If you have a smoke machine it is likely a time to use it.

     

    sorry there was some miscommunication with the techs. i am about to determine if running without the MAF plugged in. we have ordered a new MAF AND will update this thread later.


  10. Hi guys. We have a 1998 Boxster in the shop. It's a JDM with 53,000 KM. Tiptronic.

     

    The symptoms are a backfire through the intake manifold when in gear, hesitation and lack of power won't go through the RPM range.

     

    What we have done; freshen the gas with new

    replaced spark plugs

    replaced maf

    replaced engine coolant temp sensor

    unbolted catalytic converter and ran without it to test for a plugged system, without change

     

    the symptoms occur only when in drive. when in park and neutral, we can rev the engine and the soft rpm limiter stays at 4K rpm. 

    however when the car is lifted onto the hoist we put it in drive, and then we get hesitation and backfiring through the intake, when we press onto the accelerator.

     

    i have connected to the durametric and cleared/short tested for all systems and the software returns no fault codes. we also did live stream of the maf, throttle position, ect, and rpm, throttle position angle and didn't find any irrational values.

     

    we're about to run a fuel system pressure and volume test.

     

    update: i finished talking with the tech and he says that with the MAF UNPLUGGED, the problem went away and it worked all the way to red line. we didn't actually replace it with a new one yet.


  11. 1 minute ago, Loren said:

     

    P1602 Terminal 30 interrupted

     

    Possible cause of fault:

    - Fuses B1, F6
    - Wiring
    - Tiptronic control module

     

    Sometimes you also get this if the battery has been disconnected.

     

    sorry i forgot to update. after clearing codes and running several times, i'm getting zero error codes now. non locking and non cranking.

     

    i think it's the alarm module that was programmed for USA/Canada when infact it's domestic/rest of world car since it has the Z code in the VIN

     

    i will  be consulting with the owner and ecu doctors in florida to see if they can take in the computers and have them re-programmed.


  12. Just now after clearing fault codes and running a short test once again, durametric comes up with zero fault codes. 

     

    I'm getting a fault code

    P1602:
    Supply voltage Open circuit

     

    on the DME however, and I have confirmed that I am getting voltage to this wire into the DME

     

    update: after resetting codes again, turning on/off the ingition I'm no longer getting any codes. everything is clear.


  13. After taking apart each door lock module passenger/driver I took them apart and tested all the microswitches, motors, examined for physical damage and re-freshed each solder pads. Now after re-connecting the durametric the same problem occured. Non-starting, the locks will not function. I have checked the central locking switch, the path of current from the alarm module to the lock modules. Now all that is left is these two of four options;

    Incorrect country coding
    Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks
    Door lock (driver's/passenger's) faulty
    Control module faulty

     

    incorrect country coding and a faulty control module. what is most likely is a incorrect country coding on the control module. i'm not sure how to test for this on the durametric but it's almost the only plausible option at this point. the car is japan spec and left hand drive, not usa spec. i think the porsche dealer sold the owner a alarm control module with usa coding.

     

    when i hit the lock activation in durametric the door locks make noise but don't actually lock. when the key is used to lock the driver's door it locks, and arms the car. 


  14. So after doing some tests on the door locks here's what I found. I unplugged each connector to the lock module one at a time and tested for resistances between the 

    'CL MOTOR' and the common, as well individually the 'SAFE MOTOR' and common. I managed to do a direct test to the modules but I just ended up by causing the passenger side door to lock and now it won't unlock. when i applied voltage to the cl motor on the drivers side, I had a motor activation but the door didn't lock. still not getting any action by using the inside lock switch button but the key fob is making the lock modules make a lock/unlock noise.

     

    right door resistance of motors

    cl motor, alarm module connector I, pin 19 and II, pin 3; 19.5 ohm

    safe motor alarm module connector II, pin 9 and II, pin 3: 32.3 ohm 

     

    left door resistance of motors

    cl motor alarm module connector I, pin 19 and II, pin 3; 24.3 ohm

    safe motor connector II, pin 9 and II, pin 3; 4.7 ohm

     

    there's an obvious issue with the left door safe motor.  it seems to be unusually low resistance as the right motor measures over 30 ohms.

     

    furthermore, I have cleared codes and re-run a 'shorts test' and there are no fault codes except one for the alarm module;

    Fault Codes  
     47:
    Control locking synchronization
    Status: present 
    Occurance Counter: 1
     
    I checked the all data troubleshooting steps for fault 47 and determined the issue to be the lock control units, both passenger and driver side. i will have to buy a 8mm triple square driver to remove the lock modules but once I remove them I will take them apart and inspect/test for physical faults like open solder joints and attempt a repair. if no repairs can be made I will order one for each door and have them installed and re-test the system. 

     

    I took apart the drivers' door lock module and re-flow soldered all the joints. I also tested operation of the two motors and all 5 microswitches tested good. 


  15. So after doing some tests on the door locks here's what I found. I unplugged each connector to the lock module one at a time and tested for resistances between the 

    'CL MOTOR' and the common, as well individually the 'SAFE MOTOR' and common. I managed to do a direct test to the modules but I just ended up by causing the passenger side door to lock and now it won't unlock. when i applied voltage to the cl motor on the drivers side, I had a motor activation but the door didn't lock. still not getting any action by using the inside lock switch button but the key fob is making the lock modules make a lock/unlock noise.

     

    right door resistance of motors

    cl motor, alarm module connector I, pin 19 and II, pin 3; 19.5 ohm

    safe motor alarm module connector II, pin 9 and II, pin 3: 32.3 ohm 

     

    left door resistance of motors

    cl motor alarm module connector I, pin 19 and II, pin 3; 24.3 ohm

    safe motor connector II, pin 9 and II, pin 3; 4.7 ohm

     

    there's an obvious issue with the left door safe motor.  it seems to be unusually low resistance as the right motor measures over 30 ohms.

     

    furthermore, I have cleared codes and re-run a 'shorts test' and there are no fault codes except one for the alarm module;

    Fault Codes  
     47:
    Control locking synchronization
    Status: present 
    Occurance Counter: 1
     
    I checked the all data troubleshooting steps for fault 47 and determined the issue to be the lock control units, both passenger and driver side. i will have to buy a 8mm triple square driver to remove the lock modules but once I remove them I will take them apart and inspect/test for physical faults like open solder joints and attempt a repair. if no repairs can be made I will order one for each door and have them installed and re-test the system. 


  16. Turns out that the signal path from pin 5 and 28 from alarm module to each door's wiring connector is good. There is no door locking going on and I believe that both lock modules are faulty. It is not completely out of plausibility as I have seen someone else online report both driver/passenger lock modules can be broken simultaneously. 

    I will need to get a 8mm triple square driver to remove the lock modules and after I will take them apart to inspect for failure.


  17. Troubleshooting a no crank issue; this code came up on the durametric alarm module section.

     

    My alldata documentation goes on to state;

     

    Quote

     

    Fault Code 12 

    Wrong door lock module 

    Diagnostic conditions 

    • Vehicle is locked or unlocked

    Possible cause of fault 

    • Wrong door lock installed

    NOTE: 

    • USA vehicles do not have the 'Door secured' function.
    • Fault code 12 is set if the wrong door locks are installed.

    Affected terminals 
    Plug A, pins 5 and 28

    Diagnosis/troubleshooting 

    Work Instruction:

    Replace Drivers' / Passenger's Door lock.

     

     

    What does this even mean ? An entirely defective door lock module ? Did a previous owner install one from another car ? I don't really understand because the troubleshooting step is just one possible simple solution.

    I will carefully test all operation of the door lock and update with another post. 


  18. thanks for the input ! i'm currently tracking this down.

     

    Following the troubleshooting guide from alldata, I've tested pins 26 on the Tiptronic computer connector AND the DME connector. Both show a strong 12.47V with the ignition off. Resistance shows 0.5 ohm to B+. 

     

     

     

    Looks like a new transmission control module should be ordered or sent for repair. Any thoughts ? 

    153313743.gif


  19. Great. So finally the durametric enthusiast scanner had arrived along with my 16ft active usb cable extension. I have tested for fault codes and determined the following

     

    Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 5.2.2  
      Module Identification
        
        
             
    Part Number      996.618.610.04 
    Supplier Part Number      004155073701 
     
        
      Current Fault Codes  
        
     P1602
    Supply voltage Open circuit
     
     Alarm I32  
      Module Identification
        
        
             
    Part Number      996.618.260.07 
    Supplier Part Number      080504003007 
     
        
      Current Fault Codes  
        
     61
    Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
    Status: present 
    Occurance Counter: 1
     
      
     21
    W lead ( DME immobilizer)
    Status: not present 
    Occurance Counter: 1
    This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.
     
      
     12
    Wrong door lock module
    Status: present 
    Occurance Counter: 4

     

     

    After I cleared the fault codes and re-connected the scan tool and tried again to start the car, I didn't notice again any new fault codes. I think these codes were just stored when I had disconnected modules with the key set to ON. 

     

    Excuse my possible mistakes as I am learning this program. I ran a 'short test' after clearing all the codes. This is my new result;

    Short Test  
        
    Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 5.2.2
        
    Current Fault Codes  
     P1602:
    Supply voltage Open circuit
        
      Alarm I32
        
      Current Fault Codes  
     12:
    Wrong door lock module
    Status: present 
    Occurance Counter: 1
     
     

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