pcvinsel

That's my issue Joe. I wanted to use the plug thing but if I remove the seat belt receptacle and transfer it to a race seat, I will have nothing to plug it into since the harness guts are attached to the stock seat.

The GT3 Seat DIY linked to http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/17-diy-gt3-seats-install/ shows exactly how to wire the seat belt receptacle to the wiring harness plug that connects to the stock seat.

Peter

hmmm...

Pelican has the 996 parts in the 996 sections

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/996J/POR_996J_BRKpad_pg4.htm#item9

That said, I always reuse these. But I'm also not too concerned about brake noise myself since I usually run track pads which always squeal...

Peter

I noticed that connector piece on my car was broken so that it no longer attached and had been zip tied in place many years ago. I bought a new connector but had never replaced it since I wasn't comfortable with the whole coolant air bubble thing. Instead, I was able to use a zip tie strategically placed back to the bolt that was supposed to hold it and this had become a regular check item to make sure it was always being held in the right place and not rubbing into the accessories belt which is about 1/2" away from it.

Well, a couple of weeks ago a noise around the accessory belt started happening and it got un-settlingly loud. I'd suspected (actually it was more of a hope) that it might be the idler and/or tensioner pulleys. I wasn't quite so lucky and I found out it was the water pump bearing getting ready to let go. I got the new water pump and decided to get an UView AirLift 55000 to help me with my coolant anxiety (an absolutely wonderful tool). I also found my replacement connector piece and decided to finally install it.

Well, I couldn't believe it but when I cut the zip tie holding it and simply pulled it out a little bit to get clearance to cut off the crimp on hose clamp the bottom part just disintegrated in my hands, breaking off exactly like the pictures in this thread. I feel like I've dodged 2 bullets, the first one is that I caught my failing water pump bearing before it decided to let go, and now catching the connector (that I should have replaced long ago) before it decided to let go!

Maybe I'll but a lottery ticket this weekend to see if I can continue my streak of good luck!

Peter

...

Try some searching for oil pressure relief spring.

...

I did a search for exactly what you said, "oil pressure relief spring" and the only 2 post found are in this thread that says to do a search. I know it's off-topic but am I the only one who find the search facilities in this forum pretty close to useless?

Any links to related threads on this topic would be greatly appreciated since my oil pressure sensor went belly up & I need to replace it. I'd like to also replace anything else that makes sense while I'm in there...

Peter

I have 997 5 spoke wheels on my car. I used 7mm spacers and longer studson the front. I think they are H&R spacers from tirerack.com

Ah yes, don't forget the longer studs on the front if you use spacers. Mine might also be 7mm, I think I got them from tirerack.com.

Peter

I would like to replace my 1999 C2 twisty wheels with a set of 997 5 spoke wheels. I am concerned about the front offset. The 996 fronts have an offset of 50 while the 997 is 57. Unless there is such a thing as a negative spacer, this will increase the front track by a total of 14 mm. Is this a cause of concern? Are there other 5 spoke wheels with less offset?

I think you've got it backwards. The offset is the measurement from the face of the hub to the centerline of the wheel so a larger offset means the wheel is closer to the center of the car. The +7mm offset difference between 997 & 996 wheels allows you to use a spacer if you want to put a 997 wheel on a 996 and maintain the same placement of the tire. I have a '99 996C2 that I use 18x8-57 & 18x10-58 997 wheels on. I have a 5mm spacer on the fronts to bring them back close to where the 996 wheel is. On the rear, the 997 wheels increase the track by 14mm total which works OK.

Peter

Hi all, Just pulled my 99C2 out for the summer and well It is behaving oddly. As my foot gets near the brake pedal it seems as though the pedal is pulling away from my foot. Just about how magnets aligned resist one another. The brakes work, but I have noticed that they may even be staying engaged for a second every one in a while. The pads are 4k old, rotors are all good, fluid is tops. Also can someone tell me what color the brake fluid is supposed to be? TIA!

I would suspect the booster. If it gets filled with water (I'm not quite sure how the water gets in, but I understand it's reasonable common) it can make the pedal feel sluggish.

Peter

You can cycle it (open/closed every second) with a Durametric so you can see if it's working or not. I was able to disassemble the solenoid pretty easily and a good cleaning did the trick for mine. There's a little pin that holds it together that can be pushed out carefully.

Peter

I can move the little flap in the valve and it seems to be moving like it should.

Is there any way to test if the solenoid is broken? Will it show if i plugg in the PIWIS?

Thanks for the quick reply! :thankyou:

You might be able to activate it with a PST2 or PIWIS but I doubt it will tell you it moved - I don't know how it would know. You will likely need to observe it when activated.

If it does not move you know you have your problem.

You might want to look at the Idle Control valve. I was having a stall problem and the problem was that the ICV was pretty dirty. I was able to disassemble it and completely clean it and now the idle is smooth again. My problem was stalling in all cases but I can definitely see that your could have a dirty control valve that is especially sensitive to higher temps.

Peter

I'd double check the part numbers... I just purchased a RoW M030 kit from Sunset and the front springs have white and green dots at "A" and a white dot at "B". I found this at a 993 site:

993 Factory springs part numbers:

M030 ROW front: 965.343.531.01 (orange/green dots)

M030 ROW rear: 993.333.531.11 (brown dots)

I don't have the part number on my front spring at hand (and I can't find it on the assembled strut).

Peter

I was having a similar problem with the temp gauge moving up to the middle of the 0 in 180 in city driving. I double-checked the cap and made sure the fans were working. Then today, I decided to finally take the bumper cover off an clean the radiators. Wow, there was so much junk in there, I couldn't believe it. Vacumed it out, put everthing back together and I'm back to rock solid straight up right between the 8 and the 0.

I did find that much of the plastic peices on the bottom behind the radiators was gone or broken to the point of not being of any value. Next weekend project is to replace all that stuff.

Peter

I think the organization running the event has more to do with how much you'll get out of it (and how much risk you're at safety-wise) than what track you go to. Sears, Laguna and Thunderhill are all very fun tracks. The Golden Gate Chapter of the BMW CCA has a 2 day driving school this weekend at Sears Point and I'm pretty sure there are still student slots available.

Peter

Thought I would followup on my car and experience, remember I went with PSS9's and GT3 sway bars.

The first set of Agency Power drop links lasted 4 days before the passagner side snapped. I called Vivid Racing (where I purchased them) and Dan was kind enough to send me replacement parts for both sides at cost. The second set lasted about 3 weeks (with one track day) before snapping. I decided to called Agency Power directly, thinking that maybe I was shipped the wrong parts, to my suprise the phone system message I got was from Vivid Racing (same company ??). So I gacve up and decided that I will go with Porsche OEM GT3 drop links. I was forced to reinstall the stock front sway bar while I wait for OEM drop links to show up.

yikes... I don't think I understand what force would be put on the link to snap it. Where did it snap? Will the OEM GT3 links work with the PSS9's. The GT3 has a different spindle so the drop link ends mount to a point on the OEM shock at a 90 degree angle to where the non-GT3 spingle mount is. I don't think the GT3 links are adjustable so corner weighting the car will result in preloading of the bar.

Peter

I contacted Agency Power and they suggested that I lengthen the links to decrease the deflection angle during steering changes and that seems to have solved my problem... The rod ends were about 5mm unscrewed and I increased that to 13 both top and bottom (a little over an inch longer than the minimum possible length). I also used a little medium locktite to help keep the jam nuts tight.

Peter

I was in the same situation and decided to go with GT3 bars along with PSS9's. For links I went with the Agency Power adjustable llinks.

I had a hard time deciding between the X74 and the PSS9's.

I just installed HR coilovers with GT3 bars and Agency Power adjustable links. For normal street driving (ie. turning the steering wheel move than 1 rotation is either direction), the bottom jam nut loosens very quickly resulting in alot of noise. Has anyone else had this problem?

My car is '99 C2 Coupe, 6 sp

Peter Vinsel