Hroussard

Folks, I am looking at a bottle of Mobil 1 0W-40. It states " Mobil 1 0W-40 provides the high temperature protection of a 40 weight oil combined with the easy cold starts of a 0 rating.

Protects at oil temperatures at 400 degrees Fahrenheit.. excellent cleanliness and wear protection in high temperature / hot-running engines, even at longer drain intervals.

Sounds to me that California and Florida is covered in this statement.

Regards

Porsches LEAK!!

If you are a new Porsche driver you may be surprised to find that the car feels very light in the front , especially if you have been driving front-engined ( heavy engine) in the front. It took me quite a while before I realised that this bobbing / wandering seems to be a characteristic of a 996. Now I am used to it and I feel comfortable with this " feature". I hear that with the 997 they have taken care ( to a great extend) of this "lightness" in the front. At least that is what the Rags say. I have not driven one yet.

As this is a new thread, can you please tell us more about who makes them, prices, maybe a web site link?? Also do you know if this would fit a 1999 C2? Coupe??

HarryR

Before you change your tires , contact the Guinness Book of Records. You should apply for the record... with rear tires that made 26,000 miles!!

Suggestion : Replace asap because your rubber ( pun intended ) is going to be as hard as a well...a brick and is not going to be pretty good in stopping and other things such as driving at speed or maneuvering.

Suggest to sign up for an Autocross and ruin those things once and for all , have some fun and replace them asap BEFORE the rain starts.

I get 8K - 10K miles out of my rear tires ( Conti's) and the double out of the front .

Cheers

HarryR

Suggest you remove them :

1/ Fire danger .... they will rub the bumper because the engine will move slightly while driving ( accelerating and decelerating). Those tips may get hot

2/ It does not look good

3/ You might get vibrations and additional noise in the car when or if they touch the bumper.

Tricks to survive the tax collector (tickets) : On the freeways in California.....Always use the number 1 lane ( furthest to the left). The cop will rather take a car on the outside than have to cross 3 lanes, pick one out , move all the way back to the right lane etc . That is inefficient for tax collectors. SO.. always use Nr 1 lane if possible. I have an Escort and on the Californian roads , that will do nicely. Here in California cops can not use radar on the freeways. They must follow you and pull you over. So ALWAYS use the left lane as generally traffic cops stand hidden somewhere and dive onto the freeway. If you get caught by a cop car... that is your fault... you were driving too slow.

Cop cars sneak up on traffic at about 85 or so. Lesson : if you want to speed, always go faster than 85 miles per hour, cops will not sneak up on you that way.. and vary your speed somewhat 85 through 95 or so and if there is space on the number 2 lane...move between the number 1 and number 2 lanes so you will disappear from view if an "enemy " car came onto the freeway from somewhere and is behind you. When changing lanes you will also see the cars hidden in the other lanes.

And by-the-way.... is n't the speed limit per person in the car ... not per car :clapping:

Cheers

This temp issue is an interesting one. I have been told that many car manufacturers now install a gauge that really does not indicate the actual temperature based on actual degrees measured but it presents a reading with is more geared toward low-medium-high. Customer / drivers are gettingworried when the arrow gets close to the red and dive into dealerships stating that something is wrong.... Seems that the gauge in many cars is the same as an idiot light ! Maybe in the case of Porsche it shows actual temps which fluctuates pretty up and down based on actual cooling and temperature of the coolant. My temp gauge needle always is between the 8 and the 0 during normal driving but in summer time , and stop and start traffic,it will go to the middle between 280 and 250.

Guys, I went out and collected some prices in the area ( South of San Francisco). Here are some prices :

Sit down and hold on :

Dunlop SP Sport FM 901 F 166.59 B 261.00

Good Year Eagle F1 GS-D3 F 293.78 B 402.80

Pirelli Rosso F 268.47 B 350.94

This does not include mounting, balancing, Cal tax at 8.75%, tire waste collection charge etc etc

This is just a selection of the tires they had.

Needless to say , I ain't going to go there for sure!!!

HarryR

I question for KIM. ( or anybody else who likes to chime in here) I assume you installed The GoodYears with 265 in the back??/ If you had to redo it would you stay with 265 or would you go 275 or maybe even 285?? I have 7 1/2 inch / 18 in the front and 10 inch ( 65 offset) in the back. I do not want to roll the fenders at this point.

Appreciate it!

AHrryR

T

Get a new battery....easy and simple. They only last 3-4 years and you may have been lucky so far. Spend the 70 bucks or so.

Here is another potential contributing factor to " oil consumption". If you are making many short trips whereby the engine really does not get really hot, the water in the oil sump will not boil off and thus it looks as if the oil level measured by the system and the dipstick does not change. Ie it shows ZERO oil consumption. Now, if you then go on a long trip , the engine really gets a work out and the water boils off, you suddenly will see a drop in the oil level.

Cheers

HarryR

I agree that it should ADD value for several reasons :

1/ It's new Porsche produced engine,

2/ You should get a warranty with the thing

3/ If you are Porsche person you know the story around the RMS and how to deal with it.

4/ Porsche will tell you that consider an engine an itewm that can be replaced, just like a battery.

5/ You would check and replace as needed all the other moving / wearing parts such as clutch, oil pump, waterpump etc which would guarantee a fully -as new- drivetrain ( except the gearbox maybe)

I believe they stamp the old engine number in the new case because Porsche considers this to be an exchangeable part. I heard that but I am not sure if that is true.

HarryR C2 1999

Hmmm . I must have a special - made in California - Computer where everything you touch or look at gets 50% added to tthe original cost... for sheer fun . I am reading front 150 and rear 185 for my 18 inch 225/265.

Just kiddin but at those prices, they are not such a good buy as they seem to rank more than 10 percentage point lower than the suggested GoodYears or Michelin in the Tirerack evaluation. Nevertheless, something to look at . Thank you for the info..

HarryR

It does not get better... Here is the comparison between the 2 tires in questions:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/bs_RE050A_rd.jsp

Cheers

HarryR

I must say that the TireRack information is also very helpful after you folks narrowed it down for me. Thank you!!. Comparing the Michelin PS2 with the Eagle F1 GS-D3 is interesting. Based on the criteria I set up it looks that the GoodYear is closer to what I want. Interesting also is the wildly different thread pattern between the 2 tires and It could well be that the Goodyear ends up being less noisy because of that( less road contact in the middle of the tire but more on the outside - or at least that's how it looks).

I appreciate the input.

HarryR

Does anybody have the new Yokohama's installed??

HarryR

Well here is a picture of the rims .

Folks, I am due for new tires front an back . I have the 18 inch Porsche rims, see attached picture ( 225 front , 265 back).

I am going to drive in the rain for the next 4-5 months followed by a nice California summer, mostly on Freeways. As such I am looking for low noise, reasonable wet weather traction, dry road traction and braking as good as possible I am not particularely concerned with the N1-2-3 crap ( am I wrong here?). I have ContiSportContact 2 ( N2) on the back , Contisport On the front ( 20K miles). They were pretty acceptable BUT noisy ( especially in the last 6 months or so ie half worn) and I felt they were not too grippy ( but OK ).

Tell me which ones and why please.

Everyone is right! even Uwe (very good stuff).

Bottom line-Unless your running the Daytona 24hr., and are "flat out" for extended periods; the viscosity parameters of the predisposed oils would do fine.  Most importantly, I believe, are the ridiculously long oil change intervals!  BTW-no one mentions the necessity of proper warm-up on bearing longivity.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Now here is an interesting topic. WARMING UP THE ENGINE. What do you guys do?? I start the engine, wait for about 5-10 seconds, put the car in gear and start moving. I do not rev the engine above 3K revs until the temp gauge is at least on the number 8 of the dial. I have been told that idling the engine when cold for a while is BAD. When all systems are go and all the dashboards lights are out it's time to GO !!

HarryR

And on the subject of PCCB's, I hear people are replacing them because of their "squeeling" noise when braking. I even talked with the owner of a brand new Ferrari who also was contemplating taking them off.

HarryR -

I agree with hemeoncdoc wholeheartedly. There is NO reason to forgive mediocrety in engine design when a variety of makes ( including American cars I may add) are able to produce high powered , sophisticated engines that easily survive 200K miles without leaks or breakdowns. I also do not believe that only Porsche drivers use their cars the way they are designed. It is also clear that if you are using your car on the track you may shorted then time that engine failures occur but certainly not the same problem over and over again for the last 10 years.

I for instance would definately be looking at a Maserati or a Baby Aston Martin going forward. Or maybe the new Nissan/Infinity supercar...

Also, the reluctance for Porsche to make parts available for gearbox repair etc is rather anti-customer I would say.

I love my C2 but getting the habit of looking under the car every day to check for the RMS or other leaks syndrome puts a damper on my enthousiasm for sure.

Maybe Porsche should outsource their engines rather than their other components. Audi most likely would be doing a better job. Maybe even Jugo!! Consider a 3.8 liter engine with just about 350 HP. That's no longer the pinacle guys!!

Evo X with 2 liters will make 300+ horses with full factory warranty.

Coming soon to a dealership near to you at 35 K or so ( including ALL options)!!

Cheers

HarryR

I bought a C2 99 out of warranty 2 years ago. Tried to get an aftermarket warranty from the Porsche dealer which was denied!!! So I did not pursue anything else.

Spent 1500 bucks on a new water pump which blew out after 32K miles. Did the 30K service, have replaced the rear tires once ( now due to a replacement again). Have currently 44K miles on it , drive it daily. No problems ..so far...

I have a heavy foot both on trottle and brake. I double clutch on any downshift. Have done a few Autocross events but no tracking but the car seems to be holding up well.

Cheers

HarryR

You need to be realistic.

1/ Porsches are low(er) than normal cars but pretty well manage normal traffic situations. Procvided you do not lower them. Assume that Porsche figured out , after 20 years or so, that the ride hight is acceptable in almost all cases and that it also matches with the performance Porsche sought. Bottom line, you will need to be vigilant and you will figure out very quickly were ( in your neighborhood) you will need to pay attention.

2/ Establishing the price range ( limit) is like buying the house your REALLY want. You can not afford it, it's always "just a little bit above what you can afford" So be flexible, take your time and buy the best car within your means. Make as list of all the "must haves" , than the "Nice to haves" , remember that options will cost you a bundle if you install them afterwards.

Then, look at the buying process as an expedition an challenge and have fun with it.! Think about is as getting a new girlfriend. You always can say no.

Cheers

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