rattles

Here's the link

I built my own out of wood several years ago - in fact I am on my second set. The spec's are in the DIY section. Mine are two pieces and about six feet long. See DIY.

They have saved me big bucks.

Chuck Ottwell

Myrtle Beach

Link? I wouldn't mind making a set.

REF: 2002 911 996 3.6L

Hi all, what can I say. I am disappointed. I spent 25 years wishing I had a Porsche. Made the plunge 3 years ago, paid top dollar, took out the loan and regreted the day I signed on that dotted line. Since then (2008) Ive done 12000 klms and had the transmission and couplings replaced, oil/roof leaks fixed and the latest today the regulator on the altenator (reconditined). This car has 62000kls on it. Dont German parts last any more or is everything made in the RC. Anyway enough of the crying and winging. My problem now as noted by the auto electrician when removing the alternator is that he noted some oil between the throtle housing and inlet manifold. Should I sit in the car and drive of the cliff now or is this a minor problem not to be to concerned. As previously your opinions are always appreciated. Thank you all.

Please Note correction: Inlet manifold not Intake.

James, Sorry to hear about the problems. I too had a lot of issues with my 99 996 but after the first 4 years of its life I managed to sort them out and for the past 8 years its been a pleasure to drive. Most states in Australia have a Porsche Club, if you are not a member why not join, you will get the chance to use your car at least twice every month for social or competition events. Best of all you will have a lot of fellow Porsche owners you can discuss any problems with and they can suggest good independant workshops who can usually get your car running sweetly for much less than the dealers. Dont give up yet.

Rattles

I've had my 996 for 11 years, it has had the smell you describe and the ticking noise on cooldown since new and it has not changed. No mechanical issues related to either in my case.

Thanks for that, I thought there must be a way but couldn't figure it out.

You can "Watch" a topic and then choose "No Notification".

You can then see a listing and links to those topics by going to "My Settings", choose the "Forums" tab and choose "Manage Watched Topics".

Sounds harder than it is.

Hi,

Is there any way to save important posts to ''my content'' that I have read but not replied to.

Thanks

99 996 C2 6 speed

I joined in 2004, the value of this forum is so much greater than the small amount required to become a contributing member. Renntech has helped me with the following DIY projects, saving me a lot of cash and frustration had I taken the car to a dealer.

• Front radiator cleaning.
• Reversing light switch replacement.
• Oil and filter changing.
• Transmission oil changing.
• Interior trim removal to replace loose trim clip.
• Sun roof rattle info.
• Radio knob spare part info.
• Pressure brake bleeding instructions.
• Sun visor mirror replacement instructions.
• TSB info. which helped me to get work done when the car was under the original makers warranty.

Plus the enjoyment of being part of a well managed forum that is free of the abuse and garbage posts found on many others.

:renntech: :thankyou:

I had a wheel alignment done on my 996 and one of the crests came off when the centre caps were removed, they used a clear 3M silicone adhesive and after 6 years the crest is still there.

Thanks for that, I searched for ''drains'' but didn't realise I would also need the author.

Loren, is there a DIY for clearing the drains, I have done a search but cant find anything. Would be good info. for all of us if there are some instructions or photos.

Sorry, to hear about your problem. This is why we encourage folks to check their drains BEFORE this happens.

Central Locking/Immobilizer is under the drivers seat (LHD cars).

Even if you dry it out I doubt it would be salvageable. Once water touches powered circuits it usually more expensive to repair and likely to corrode and cause more problems in the future.

Probably not as bad as you think - a new alarm box is about US MSRP $391.51 plus programming. Likely 1 hour to reprogram all of your keys and DME, etc.

Make sure you get all the keys with their unique 40 digit codes to the shop - it highly unlikely they can copy the info out of your old alarm box.

PM sent, should have 10 photos attached if I did it right

One other maintenance item that is worth doing and is an easy DIY is to remove the front bumper and clean out the radiators. If you live in an area with heavy leaf drop in autumn you will find they are packed with leaves, insects and sludge. Not sure if its shown in the DIY section here, from memory Loren sent details to me but I think they are only available to contributing members. I have some photos and can send them as a PM if you want them.

40,000 miles,

I wouldn't attempt it as a DIY, I dont have the equipment to get the car high enough and feel comfortable about taking the transmission out while I was under the car. Also from what I have read extracting the old bearing can sometimes be difficult, I prefer to leave that type of work to the experts. I do do most of the minor maintenance myself. Brake pads, brake fluid flush, oil and filters etc.

Hi Dave,

I faced a similar decision with my 99 996 IMS bearing replacement, I did quite a lot of research and spoke to my indy about it, he suggested waiting until I needed a new clutch but I am pretty easy on cars and didn't want to wait until then. We used the LN kit and while he was in there checked out the RMS which was showing no signs of leaking. The clutch was only 25% worn so we left that as it was.

While the IMS bearing didn't appear to be too worn the motor is noticeably quieter since the replacement.

As for maintenance I would suggest regular oil changes as a must do, I do my own changes between the normal services. LN also have a replacement oil filter kit which I am planning to get soon, the factory plastic canister with paper filter is replaced with a screw on oil filter.

A friend of mine had the IMS failure with his 996 and it cost him A$30000 for the replacement motor supplied by the local dealer, the cost of the IMS kit looks like good value insurance to me.

Glenn

The tanks are $318 at Pelican, how much did they charge for labour? It is a known problem with 996's but the new tank should not have the same issue.

have a look here http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/pics/rms1.jpg

Thats good advice from HG. My 996 is 11 years old and looks almost brand new. I dont wash the underbody apart from the wheel wells and behind the rims but I do spend time to get the rest of the car looking good. I dont spend a fortune on expensive polishes but get a good result from clay, cleaner, polish and wax.

I found this website to be very useful www.autopia-carcare.com

Glenn

Hello Yash.

Your Porsche is your new baby, and as most parents... we want to take the best care of our babies.

However, After all, your Porsche is a car. It is a high performance car that will not be bothered by the elements more than any other car you have had, so common sense should prevail.

1.) Some parts of the underside of your car is covered by plastic or metal plates (depending on location) that aid in aerodynamics of the vehicle. A pressure hose and a good bit of water help remove dirt and road salt that may have accumulated there and should not cause any problems (like driving fast over a water puddle).

2.) Automatic Car washes are not recommended for cars with nice finishes because the rotating bristles can scratch your paint finish and wheels (specially wheels with big openings that can trap the rotating bristles), also, high pressure water streams can cause loose debris to move quickly and scratch your paint. (This is not just for Porsche, it is for any car with a nice finish.)

3.) no factory spec or recommendations on washing the underside, but if you have a way of raising the car, it may be worth the trouble to see if your underbelly has any damage. (like any other car driven up north) While you are down there, check to see that aerodynamic panels and spoilers are not loose.

4.) lots of low pressure water, soft soap and Chamois rags are the best way I have found to wash a car and not scratch the finish. After the soaping and removing of soap, drying the car out of direct sunlight will help so that suds don´t dry quickly and leave white drops or streaks defeating the purpose of the washing. I remove water drops with a soft rubber blade squeegee and then finish it off with a clean Chamois rag.

5.) for leather, many different products available, just make sure to test the smell of the product. I remember a friends car that became unbearable because of the "clean leather" artificial smell that came from his treatment.

6.) polish. whatever you are used to. I have seen some really expensive shine products that dont make the car look better than your walmart variety wax. I think in the end, I think the quality of the shine depends more on how careful you are with the wax and shine job than on the cost of the polish. Once again, common sense... make sure to use clean sponges, polishing rags and chamois. Dirty cleaning and polishing equipment can scratch your finish.

(One last recommendation... leave the high speed polishing drill attachments to the professionals, I saw a friend ruin his paint job once learning how to use a 19.99 "marvelous polishing attachment" that promised to leave his car better than new.

I recently had my car detailed by a professional to see how good it could look. They literally spent hours on the job... and it made a difference.

good luck with your new car.

HG

What a pity we are so far away, dont suppose you can do a special postage deal for ''down under'' 75lbs by Fedex and I would need to sell the 996 to pay for it.

Pelican Parts have a special on the factory workshop manuals http://www.pelicanpa..._manual_pg2.htm slightly more than Bentley :) but with a lot more info

I just installed one on my 99 C2 Cab/Tip. The installation was dead simple and once together there were no leaks or any issues. I did it because I always struggled to get the canister off. This should make it a lot easier and cheaper to do the oil change. I ordered the deluxe kit that came with the magnetic drain plug.

Good luck

Thanks for the info. It looks like a much better set up than the plastic canister and cartridge, mine comes off OK but its easy to cross thread it putting it back on, messy too.

Looking on the LN website for the IMS bearing kit I noticed they also have a kit to replace the standard oil filer and housing on 996's. I have searched on the forum but cant find any details about it. Has anyone tried it.

thanks for the info.

I've seen it mentioned on the forum before before but cant find specific details. I'm looking for a small hand operated oil pump that I can use to refill my transmission. I have a 99 996 6 speed so need something that I can get up to the oil filler plug. If anyone has one of these and can tell me where you bought it I would appreciate the help. Thanks

works great for what: from the rear of the car, you can jack it up from the crossmember? if so, that's awesome. what's the part number?

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :)

This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm

This one works better http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic3.htm

thanks..what about the cross beam??

I think Pelican sell it as well, I saw them both on their website a few years ago but bought them in Australia. Not sure if they still carry them.

works great for what: from the rear of the car, you can jack it up from the crossmember? if so, that's awesome. what's the part number?

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :)

This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm

This one works better http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic3.htm

works great for what: from the rear of the car, you can jack it up from the crossmember? if so, that's awesome. what's the part number?

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :)

This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm